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Thread: Crank center bolt

  1. #1
    Registered User AndyRS6's Avatar
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    Crank center bolt

    Hi to all.
    I'm finishing TB and all seals, have question on crank bolt tightening process, I know torque 200 + 180° with 4 foot or longer extension pipe, but do I need extra tool to lock crank or locking pin (T3242) will hold?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Registered User mdegracia's Avatar
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    Lock pin should be enough. That sprocket is keyed, so 200 plus 180 deg sound excessive.
    03 RS6 Daytona Grey - EFI Express - 01e - SRM K24 - Aquamist - 495whp/580ft-lbs

  3. #3
    Registered User mrdave's Avatar
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    Crank lock pin is fine, that's what it's meant for.

  4. #4
    Registered User AndyRS6's Avatar
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    It's 200 plus 180 per manual. What's your take? Should I put oil on the thread and washer?

  5. #5
    Registered User mrdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyRS6 View Post
    It's 200 plus 180 per manual. What's your take? Should I put oil on the thread and washer?
    No, it specifically says to not lube the bolt. Edit, directly from manual:

    29 - Bolt
    - 200 Nm plus an additional 1/2 turn 180°
    - Replace
    - Do not add lubricant
    - Use Crankshaft Holder -3242- for loosening and tightening
    - Install Crankshaft Holder -3242- → Anchor

  6. #6
    Registered User AndyRS6's Avatar
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    Ok, thanks

  7. #7
    Registered User AndyRS6's Avatar
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    Everything went well, bolt is at torque 200 plus 180 as peranual. Brake bar plus 5 ft extension got the job done.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    If anyone need turbo covers, I got some at home depot plumbing department, perfect fit.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrdave View Post
    Crank lock pin is fine, that's what it's meant for.
    Actually its not meant for that nor do I recommend using it for that. Its purely mean to hold the crank in position while doing the t belt. There is tool designed to bolt to the end of the crank where the dampner mounts which holds the crank specifically for this task.its easy to make, I made my own from flatbar when I did mine. Thats a lot of force on that pin when tightening that bolt. Lots of people do it tho.
    2010 XC90 exec, winter machine (V8 of course)
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  9. #9
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

  10. #10
    Registered User AndyRS6's Avatar
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    Update:Finally started the car. Got rough idling and check engine light. Fixed check engine-problem with MAF sensor, ground wire was separated. Got VAC-COM, scanned the car to figure out what causing rough idling. Have two codes but no dashboard lights. Codes are :
    Address 01: Engine Labels: 077-907-558-BCY.lbl Part No: 4D1 907 558 D
    Component: 4.2l V8/5VT G 0003
    Coding: 0006752
    Shop #: WSC 02195 785 00200
    VCID: 2F6D04D6BD3CF646D7-5140


    2 Faults Found:
    17983 - Right Engine Mount Solenoid Valve (N145)
    P1575 - 001 - Short to Plus
    16406 - Bank 2: Camshaft A (Intake)
    P0022 - 001 - Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded)
    Readiness: 0010 1101

    Timing belt was done with proper tools, so it cannot be the problem and checked many times for proper fit.
    Can someone help me out with second code, how to pin point the problem.
    Thanks.

  11. #11
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Engine mount Solenoids go bad, don't worry about it unless you detect it's going soft, then replace w/ Stearns or 034 Motorsports mounts. Bank 2 is actually the one on the Left, check the Cam Solenoid electrical connections at the front. If all looks ok with the plugs your going to have to at least pull the covers off the front (top) and recheck the timing marks.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
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  12. #12
    Registered User AndyRS6's Avatar
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    Is there any way for me to check cam saenoid thru vagc. In what group?

  13. #13
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Sure you've looked this up, http://www.obd-codes.com/p0022

    Try and log the cam adjusters and see if one doesn't show, or is way off. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/090-098.html

    I forget the numbers, but each adjuster should be at -17.2 or something at idle I thought. Maybe you just disconnected or messed up some wiring. Just Google this and you'll find details.

    I assume you're using ross-tech VCDS...
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  14. #14
    Registered User AndyRS6's Avatar
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    yes, i use ross-teh. i did a log. Is that what you mean?

    Group A: '091 Group B: '092 Group C: '093
    Engine Speed Engine Load Adjustment Adjustment Engine Speed Engine Load Adjustment Adjustment Engine Speed Engine Load Phase Position Phase Position
    TIME (G28) Status Bank 1 TIME (G28) Status Bank 2 TIME (G28) Bank 1 Bank 2
    Marker STAMP /min % °KW STAMP /min % °KW STAMP /min % °KW °KW
    0.27 760 20.3 OFF 0 0.45 760 20.3 OFF 0 0.11 760 20.3 -1 15
    0.8 760 20.3 OFF 0 0.97 760 20.3 OFF 0 0.63 760 20.3 -1 15
    1.3 760 20.3 OFF 0 1.47 760 20.3 OFF 0 1.13 760 20.3 -1 15
    1.8 760 20.3 OFF 0 1.97 760 20.3 OFF 0 1.63 760 20.3 -1 15
    2.3 760 20.3 OFF 0 2.47 760 20.3 OFF 0 2.13 760 20.3 -1 15
    2.81 760 20.3 OFF 0 2.97 760 20.3 OFF 0 2.63 760 20.3 -1 15
    3.3 760 20.3 OFF 0 3.47 760 20.3 OFF 0 3.13 760 20.3 -1 15
    3.8 760 20.3 OFF 0 3.97 760 20.3 OFF 0 3.63 760 20.3 -1 15
    4.29 720 20.3 OFF 0 4.46 760 20.3 OFF 0 4.13 760 20.3 -1 15
    4.79 760 20.3 OFF 0 4.96 760 20.3 OFF 0 4.63 760 20.3 -1 15
    5.29 760 20.3 OFF 0 5.46 760 20.3 OFF 0 5.14 760 20.3 -1 15
    5.79 760 20.3 OFF 0 5.96 760 20.3 OFF 0 5.64 760 20.3 -1 15
    6.29 760 20.3 OFF 0 6.46 760 20.3 OFF 0 6.14 720 20.3 -1 15
    6.79 760 20.3 OFF 0 6.94 760 20.3 OFF 0 6.64 760 20.3 -1 15
    7.26 760 20.3 OFF -0.5 7.44 760 20.3 OFF 0 7.11 760 20.3 -1 15
    7.76 760 20.3 OFF 0 7.94 760 20.3 OFF 0 7.61 760 20.3 -1 15
    8.26 760 20.3 OFF 0 8.44 760 20.3 OFF 0 8.11 760 20.3 -1 15
    8.76 760 20.3 OFF 0 8.94 760 20.3 OFF 0 8.61 760 20.3 -1 15
    9.26 760 20.3 OFF 0 9.44 760 20.3 OFF 0 9.11 760 20.3 -1 15
    9.78 760 20.3 OFF 0 9.94 760 20.3 OFF 0 9.61 760 20.3 -1 15

  15. #15
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Edit, here's another, you sure seem to have some something wrong with the TB change.

    http://audisrs.com/archive/cam-timin...__t_38608.html

    Look at group 93, your bank 1 and bank 2 angle is very different. I think they should be the same/similar.

    Believe this applies to our engine also, says you should be around 0, so 15 is way out for bank 2, you got an issue there I'm guessing.

    http://audisrs.com/archive/cam-timin...__t_21169.html
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  16. #16
    Registered User AndyRS6's Avatar
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    Is there a way to find out if the problem is with chain tensioner or timing belt off by 15 degrees. Trying to avoid to having to put in service position. I just switched chain tensioner solinoid from bank 1 to bank 2, no change.
    Anyone have left chain tensioner for sale?

  17. #17
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Dude, you messed up the timing, sure seems like. Get back in there and fix it. It's whatever you were working on. Sounds like it wasn't locked in place.

    Edit; sorry, there is always the chance your cam tensioner pad happened to fail, mine did randomly one day. Valve cover off, look for shattered plastic.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  18. #18
    Registered User AndyRS6's Avatar
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    I'm already there, when I did timing belt I did chain tensioner pads too. Driver side was broken. How many chain links supposed to be between marks in left side, cuz i think im off. Also is there any way I can rotate the crank without putting in service positionClick image for larger version. 

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    Thank you for quick response

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