Hi to all.
I'm finishing TB and all seals, have question on crank bolt tightening process, I know torque 200 + 180° with 4 foot or longer extension pipe, but do I need extra tool to lock crank or locking pin (T3242) will hold?
Thanks
Hi to all.
I'm finishing TB and all seals, have question on crank bolt tightening process, I know torque 200 + 180° with 4 foot or longer extension pipe, but do I need extra tool to lock crank or locking pin (T3242) will hold?
Thanks
Lock pin should be enough. That sprocket is keyed, so 200 plus 180 deg sound excessive.
03 RS6 Daytona Grey - EFI Express - 01e - SRM K24 - Aquamist - 495whp/580ft-lbs
Crank lock pin is fine, that's what it's meant for.
Actually its not meant for that nor do I recommend using it for that. Its purely mean to hold the crank in position while doing the t belt. There is tool designed to bolt to the end of the crank where the dampner mounts which holds the crank specifically for this task.its easy to make, I made my own from flatbar when I did mine. Thats a lot of force on that pin when tightening that bolt. Lots of people do it tho.
2010 XC90 exec, winter machine (V8 of course)
2004 RS6 official Canadian edition, Daytona grey, (best colour!), summer edition
2011 Q7 TDI, general alrounder
It's 200 plus 180 per manual. What's your take? Should I put oil on the thread and washer?
Crank bolt removal 101......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G-adEVjfWI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_6SFBg7_dg
'02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down
Update:Finally started the car. Got rough idling and check engine light. Fixed check engine-problem with MAF sensor, ground wire was separated. Got VAC-COM, scanned the car to figure out what causing rough idling. Have two codes but no dashboard lights. Codes are :
Address 01: Engine Labels: 077-907-558-BCY.lbl Part No: 4D1 907 558 D
Component: 4.2l V8/5VT G 0003
Coding: 0006752
Shop #: WSC 02195 785 00200
VCID: 2F6D04D6BD3CF646D7-5140
2 Faults Found:
17983 - Right Engine Mount Solenoid Valve (N145)
P1575 - 001 - Short to Plus
16406 - Bank 2: Camshaft A (Intake)
P0022 - 001 - Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded)
Readiness: 0010 1101
Timing belt was done with proper tools, so it cannot be the problem and checked many times for proper fit.
Can someone help me out with second code, how to pin point the problem.
Thanks.
The code suggests your intake and exhaust cams are not 'timed' to each other correctly. this suggests the cams were out and not reinstalled correctly. You mention a timing belt. Did you do tensioner shoes also or have any other ned to have the camshafts removed from the heads? There is a VERY specific setting for both the passenger and driver sidde heads - and NO they are not identical.... You can quickly pooch your engine if you mess this up. This is a tight tolerance engine, but the 1 tooth likely won't be critical as I know a number of people have had a tensioner pad disinegrate and after introducing that much slop in the timing they still didn't damage valves.
Last edited by Bigglezworth; May 27th, 2016 at 00:24.
'02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down
Yes, i did tensioner shoes also. In this side top shoe was broken, before intake cam removal i mark everything and install back same way, count 15 links between marks. Cams and caps marks align perfect. Results-rough idling.
Attachment 17437
Last edited by AndyRS6; May 27th, 2016 at 03:53.
Engine mount Solenoids go bad, don't worry about it unless you detect it's going soft, then replace w/ Stearns or 034 Motorsports mounts. Bank 2 is actually the one on the Left, check the Cam Solenoid electrical connections at the front. If all looks ok with the plugs your going to have to at least pull the covers off the front (top) and recheck the timing marks.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Is there any way for me to check cam saenoid thru vagc. In what group?
Sure you've looked this up, http://www.obd-codes.com/p0022
Try and log the cam adjusters and see if one doesn't show, or is way off. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/090-098.html
I forget the numbers, but each adjuster should be at -17.2 or something at idle I thought. Maybe you just disconnected or messed up some wiring. Just Google this and you'll find details.
I assume you're using ross-tech VCDS...
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
yes, i use ross-teh. i did a log. Is that what you mean?
Group A: '091 Group B: '092 Group C: '093 Engine Speed Engine Load Adjustment Adjustment Engine Speed Engine Load Adjustment Adjustment Engine Speed Engine Load Phase Position Phase Position TIME (G28) Status Bank 1 TIME (G28) Status Bank 2 TIME (G28) Bank 1 Bank 2 Marker STAMP /min % °KW STAMP /min % °KW STAMP /min % °KW °KW 0.27 760 20.3 OFF 0 0.45 760 20.3 OFF 0 0.11 760 20.3 -1 15 0.8 760 20.3 OFF 0 0.97 760 20.3 OFF 0 0.63 760 20.3 -1 15 1.3 760 20.3 OFF 0 1.47 760 20.3 OFF 0 1.13 760 20.3 -1 15 1.8 760 20.3 OFF 0 1.97 760 20.3 OFF 0 1.63 760 20.3 -1 15 2.3 760 20.3 OFF 0 2.47 760 20.3 OFF 0 2.13 760 20.3 -1 15 2.81 760 20.3 OFF 0 2.97 760 20.3 OFF 0 2.63 760 20.3 -1 15 3.3 760 20.3 OFF 0 3.47 760 20.3 OFF 0 3.13 760 20.3 -1 15 3.8 760 20.3 OFF 0 3.97 760 20.3 OFF 0 3.63 760 20.3 -1 15 4.29 720 20.3 OFF 0 4.46 760 20.3 OFF 0 4.13 760 20.3 -1 15 4.79 760 20.3 OFF 0 4.96 760 20.3 OFF 0 4.63 760 20.3 -1 15 5.29 760 20.3 OFF 0 5.46 760 20.3 OFF 0 5.14 760 20.3 -1 15 5.79 760 20.3 OFF 0 5.96 760 20.3 OFF 0 5.64 760 20.3 -1 15 6.29 760 20.3 OFF 0 6.46 760 20.3 OFF 0 6.14 720 20.3 -1 15 6.79 760 20.3 OFF 0 6.94 760 20.3 OFF 0 6.64 760 20.3 -1 15 7.26 760 20.3 OFF -0.5 7.44 760 20.3 OFF 0 7.11 760 20.3 -1 15 7.76 760 20.3 OFF 0 7.94 760 20.3 OFF 0 7.61 760 20.3 -1 15 8.26 760 20.3 OFF 0 8.44 760 20.3 OFF 0 8.11 760 20.3 -1 15 8.76 760 20.3 OFF 0 8.94 760 20.3 OFF 0 8.61 760 20.3 -1 15 9.26 760 20.3 OFF 0 9.44 760 20.3 OFF 0 9.11 760 20.3 -1 15 9.78 760 20.3 OFF 0 9.94 760 20.3 OFF 0 9.61 760 20.3 -1 15
Edit, here's another, you sure seem to have some something wrong with the TB change.
http://audisrs.com/archive/cam-timin...__t_38608.html
Look at group 93, your bank 1 and bank 2 angle is very different. I think they should be the same/similar.
Believe this applies to our engine also, says you should be around 0, so 15 is way out for bank 2, you got an issue there I'm guessing.
http://audisrs.com/archive/cam-timin...__t_21169.html
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
Is there a way to find out if the problem is with chain tensioner or timing belt off by 15 degrees. Trying to avoid to having to put in service position. I just switched chain tensioner solinoid from bank 1 to bank 2, no change.
Anyone have left chain tensioner for sale?