Different strokes for different folks. I would always recommend verification of synchronized opening. Wastegate troubleshooting is not fun with the engine in the car. It obviously comes down to preference though, and your way is not wrong.
Different strokes for different folks. I would always recommend verification of synchronized opening. Wastegate troubleshooting is not fun with the engine in the car. It obviously comes down to preference though, and your way is not wrong.
Since the passenger side wastegate didn't get disturbed I'm inclined to use the mityvac to find the cracking pressure then adjust the drivers side to match. They should open at the same pressure right?
I'm picking up a gearbox this weekend. I'm going to chance it on it being a good used box and spend the money on injectors and fuel pump for E85 conversion.
You can do that, or even better, you can get a T-fitting and do both at the same time, for guaranteed synchronization.Originally Posted by NerdyDeeds
So I did a little fiddling this morning....Set up a quick T fitting and used my brake power bleeder which gives pretty accurate low pressure readings since it has the reservoir tank to pump up by hand, rather than just pressurizing with a compressor....each hand pump on the power bleeder is less than .1 psi, giving pretty good control over pressure.
When I re-set my wastegate actuators, I did the closed plus two turns of a nut to snug them up. This made it so you can still spin the flappers if you try, but can't get any tighter with more turns of the nut due to the springs. What I found was the flappers would just start to crack at about 3.7-3.8 psi, just enough so I could spin them with equal resistance with my fingers...did a pump at a time for just a hair more psi, and followed the resistance so they would match. I did make about a 1/5 to 1/4 turn on one nut to get them to match up, but the initial setting was pretty spot-on. Looks like they really open up from 4.3-4.5 psi. Purged and re-started a few times to compare, and results came out the same. So, it was definitely helpful to T this up to do them with absolutely identical pressure since the tolerance is too close to measure with most gauges...probably being .1-.3 PSI variance if you don't test as a pair.
Nice! I didn't get a chance to play with the force gauge this weekend, but it's still on my to do list. I'll definitely tee the two together when I do the final adjustments though. What happens, or what do you feel in the car, if the wastegates aren't sync'd or opening when they're supposed to?
One's too loose - you're not getting the boost you should be.
One's too tight - car feels very strong, but one turbo is always working too hard. You might occasionally throw an overboost DTC.
I made some progress on a couple of the mini-projects, but haven't really completed any of them yet.
First was to remove the spacer on the back of the crank shaft. Drilled out and tapped a 7/8" hole then threaded a bolt in to push the spacer out. It worked really well except I went a little further than I meant to with the drill.
Once that was out I wanted to replace the rear main seal since there was just a whiff of oil on the seal. Got the plate off and now waiting for the gasket.
A bonus project is now a water pump replacement (done 7000 miles ago) since there's coolant leaking from the freeze plug :
Bigger injectors for E85 are in. I went with the Bosch/Porsche 630cc units. I noticed some insulation and other signs of old mouse activity under the intake manifold. I was going to leave it since it doesn't seem to be causing any problems, but then the knock sensor plug (green plug next to the injectors) decided to completely dissolve while I unplugged it so the manifold is coming off to replace it.
I also have the camshafts out and the shoes replaced on the tensioner so that can go back together this week. I picked up the new(old) transmission locally which is most likely in need of a rebuild. I'm going to pull it apart and check but I'm 99% it's getting new parts. I'm thinking/hoping just the 1-2 shift collar and syncros from JHM should be enough. Otherwise the full rebuild kit isn't too much more. I do need to find a shifter box as well if anyone has one laying around they don't need let me know.
There was also plenty of [s]forbidden espresso[/s]gunk built up in the PCV hoses. I'm thinking this may have been why I was getting so much oil in the drivers side charge piping.
I appreciate the inputs from you and nubcake on this...so, for a double check, is there a good opening pressure to shoot for? I totally understand that balancing the 2 to open at equal pressures is the primary goal, but there is a big difference between 6 and 9 psi...do you have a target suggestion? I'm inclined to assume closer to 6, but a solid number from those that know would be appreciated.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
