Honestly, not much weight to be saved....all aluminum for rads and piping. I'd say 20-25 pounds max including the coolant. If you need to know an exact figure, I can put it in a box and jump on the scale....scary notion though with my COVID beer weight...seems to flow down my throat every night now.
I did this more to help eliminate leak points in the cooling system and to make it easier to remove the front clip in the future.
Hi Muggy,\
Weight is the enemy, every pound conts, especially up front on oour cars.
You chould drink champagne, is lighter !
If You could put on the hardware which is saved too, and let me know how much fluid You saved,
that would give us a very accurate picture and wight.
So far I managed to save about 230 lbs over stock, so this would be on top of that.
Cheers,
Ivan
Hey Ivan, so true on weight...that's another reason among many that I'm doing the 6 speed swap...the auto tranny is like a ship's anchor!
SO true on the weight savings. I started out going with BBS RS-GT wheels, not cheap but close to 10lb lighter per wheel than stock. Aux radiator delete with all of the lines, Onstar stripped but B.T (OEM) added. Started with an Odyssey 925T battery going from the 50+lb OEM down to 26lbs, now I went to a Antigravity Lithium which takes it down to 5.5lbs (weight out back but still weight). Stripping the DRC and lines and going to KWV3 struts/shocks was at least another 20+lbs. As Muggy said, I think the 6spd conversion saved close to 100lbs. Catless saves some more.
So far I think I'm down over 200+lbs without losing any driveability or comfort....no rice mods.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
I can send you my puller setup for the crank plug if you wish. Its been proven on 4 motors so far.
Let me know if you'd like me to send it to you
MUggy, have You thought of cleaning the Cats ? Done it with other cars incl. my rs6.
Removing them needs some cutting, and than later rewelding, but no big deal.
I did soak them in a plastic tub with parts cleaner for about 2 weeks, with some rinsing in between.
Cheers,
Ivan
Alright, time to get back to work on the RS! My younger son and his fiancé were living with us and working from home for about 8 months, but were able to buy a house in November. I'm finally kid and commitment free for my basement space, so I promised my wife that I'd finally build a finished laundry room space after being in the house for 23 years. I've done a lot of home projects over the years, but I kind of forgot how much work a 7'x9' room would be...but it's done now!
Before...
And my reclaimed basement where the kids were living...
I think I've earned some quality garage time for a while now....next up is my son's wedding in our backyard in October....time to lay a new paver patio!
Oh yeah, with all of the crap that I got rid of out of my utility room space...I was able to carve out an interior workspace and made a bench out of my old washer/dryer stand that I had built previously...was able to bring in all of my boat/fishing stuff along with house tools for carpentry, plumbing, electrical, etc...meaning clearing this out of my garage for more car project space!
Last edited by Muggy; February 3rd, 2021 at 11:09.
Looking good man. I have the A6 pulled clear apart now. Completely rebuilding it. New rods, bearings, pistons(30 over) make it a 2.8/.9 liter. But not going with the 3.0l crank. And debating on doing 028/029 turbos. I have a set of k04-025/026 rs4 turbos, and a set of TTE550s. But TTE I guess has been having problems with the shaft breaking. So I'm a little shy on putting them in. And having to pull the motor again. And I'm really looking into a BIG STK but haven't made up my mind yet. I still have time. Waiting in rods and whatnot to show up. I got both oil pans off now. To send the block to be hot tanked and bored. I ended up buying another Audi. Like I needed another. But I found a killer deal on a b5 A4. To build after I'm done with the A6.
Thanks, yeah, been following yours on the Zine....nice progress! Sorry, but I don't have any input on turbos...Looking forward to seeing what you squeeze out of it once back together...by then, hopefully some COVID issues lifted/better and we can get the sisters together again!
Muggy,
Small world.
I didn't put the pieces together but I ran into your son here (https://www.tacomaworld.com/members/an3.346524/) as he was posting about RS6 and how his dad was putting in a manual 6 speed.
I informed that I had one and it was a great car and that I was over here on this forum.
So from my sig here, you can see my progression from RS6 to Tacoma DCSB 4x4 (the mod bug never stops even if you change car application and purpose).
Nevertheless, keep up the great work!
SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared
ben916, small world it is! My 6 speed conversion has been interrupted a few times while helping him with various projects from buying the "vintage" Tacoma to his first house...all good, I like to work on everything! Both of my boys definitely inherited my love of projects, and I'm thrilled to be able to help them both with whatever comes up and fun to watch them grow into very capable young men (now 25 & 27)...my older son is going for his Master Electrician's test later this month, no easy feat for sure. I actually have an artificial disk in my neck after damaging it while helping install new front leaf springs on his F250 7.3 Super Duty, but I'd do it again without question, maybe just be a little more careful next time!
Appreciate the reach out!
Alright now, finally getting back on the horse! And it looks like I found my Kryptonite...from most of the blogs, it seems that everyone has something that really is a pain that shouldn't be. For some, it's been the flex plate bolts or exhaust/turbo studs, for others, it's been cutting water pipes by accident or having clutch components miss-marked by the manufacturer...for me, it was the bastard pilot plug in the crank. I picked up an inside puller, similar to the snap on tool highlighted by SteveKen in his how-to. No dice...with either the puller or set up on a side hammer, it was not going to budge. I was hoping to save this piece just-because...I like to save stuff that really shouldn't need to be cut up. In any case, plan 2-try to find parts to do the tap method...would need to wait for stuff online and pay more for one-time use tools. In any case, the pilot plug is out after a few days of fighting a couple of rounds with it...
Moving forward, I mocked up some 6 speed goodies!
But need to change the rear crank seal first...it was leaking and part of the reason for the motor pull/trans separation in the first place. Can't seem to find my proper torque wrench, so final install soon...
Looking forward to having more time to work on this now with other projects out of the way!
Last edited by Muggy; February 19th, 2021 at 10:19.
Small updates tonight....Got the rear main seal/cover installed and pulled the tuned TCU that I won't need anymore for a fellow rs6.com member...
Unfortunately, I don't know who did the TCU tune, but the chip has obviously been swapped....
I'm inclined to think all those tuning companies are flashing the same TCU file.
So whoever was looking for a tuned one - this is one of your options.
Soldering could have been tidier though.
Moving forward, I have a question on the orientation of the flywheel and where I should have the "window" positioned for the crank position sensor. I have the lock pin installed, so the crank is definitely fixed at a known lock point. That said, when I took off the original CPS ring from the auto, it was in a different position then where I believe that it should be now. I'm 99.9% sure that I had the lock pin in for the marking (no reason to mark if not locked!) and removal of the auto tone ring as my neck twitched for a week after getting those old crank bolts out! Basically, since I picked up the parts from Jolio, it had been previously installed on a running project. With that, I can see a shadow of where the flywheel was aligned on the crank with the one extra offset hole on the end of the crankshaft that is at about 10 o'clock in the locked position. If I look at my old pics and check my alignment sharpie marks that I put on there when removing the auto box, the window is up just slightly above or aligned to the top starter bolt hole (about 2 o'clock). If I align the new flywheel to the shadow dot on the mating surface to match the offset hole on the crank, it is further down and closer to 4 o'clock. That said, at this position, it is 180 degrees or thereabouts from the CPS. Any thoughts here before I move forward? Anxious to get this locked down and checked off of the list!
Note CPS ring window from the auto at about 2:00 near the top starter bolt hole....
And now with the flywheel installed and the CPS window at about 4:00 near the lower starter bolt hole and aligned with the shadow dot from PO's installation (180 degrees from CPS)....
CPS window where my finger is...
Any thoughts, comments, and insight welcomed, thanks!