One tip I would share is to take a lot of pictures while you are tearing things down. I took tons, and found them useful many times. Regarding the tensioner pads, I used the Blauparts kit and it seemed to work well. I also replaced all the cam-cap bolts when I did mine, since technically they are supposed to single-use.

Another tip, I used 1stvwparts.com for a lot of the the various small parts (bolts, gaskets, seals, etc...). If you can get a part number for it, they usually have it, and their prices were consistently as good or better than most places. (For example, the cam-cap bolts are much cheaper here, and you need 52 of them!) They are up in Washington, so shipping is usually quick. I also compiled a list of part numbers, so let me know if you are looking for anything specific.

Will emissions testing be an issue? Do you have to pass a visual test? If not, I'd suggest removing the secondary air system. It free's up a ton of space in the crowded space behind the motor. Also, a good tuner (aka Nubcake) can tune it out while still showing it functional for an OBD test. I have to do the OBD test up in Oregon, and mine has passed several times now. I also gutted the pre-cats and used O2 "cheaters" to keep the rear O2 sensors working. This probably would not pass a visual test, however.

Have you tried to remove the flex plate yet? The bolts are usually a total bitch. You're welcome to try and loosen them with tools if you want, but most of us ended up grinding the heads off (which is actually not a big deal, since you are grinding on a part you're going to toss anyway.)

The SteveKen kit is really good, but I found a couple of the bellhousing bolts were shorter than I liked, so I ended up getting longer versions. You can check yourself and make the call, it's probably fine either way. Also, I messed around with oil line routing quite a bit. One issue you may have read about is starter heat-soak. I believe this is caused by the metal oil line being wedged between the exhaust manifold and starter solenoid, causing the solenoid to become a heat sink. I worked very hard to make sure there was a distinct air gap between the manifold and oil lines. I also wrapped the the starter in a heat blanket. Nothing fancy, just a piece of heat-shield fabric secured with a stainless zip-tie. I also ended up grinding down one of the unused metal "bosses" on the passenger turbo compressor housing. It was close to pinching the oil feed line, so grinding it down freed up space for the line to fit better. When you are fitting this stuff back together, you'll see what I mean. I probably spent more time getting the oil line where I wanted it, than any other single thing. Some people seem to have no issues, but not me!

Another thing while I'm brain-dumping, do you have the Elsa-Win software (aka factory service manuals)? It was invaluable during the whole process, I highly recommend tracking it down. There are copies floating around if you search.

Do you have a small torque wrench that measures inch-pounds? I picked one up for the cam-cap bolts and timing tensioner adjustment.

That's enough for now, good luck and ask questions, we are here to help!