Oh no, I think I have the Tilton starter, don't know if I'm pre or post TsunamiI went with the cast iron slave cylinder and got a Stainless line from USP motorsports and I ran the line behind the tin heatshield that lines the inside of the transmission tunnel, you can run it from the slave at the bottom and right out the top.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
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Tsunami was 2011, so probably post, but FWIW, I have the Tilton and have had zero problems.Originally Posted by hahnmgh63
Oh no, I think I have the Tilton starter, don't know if I'm pre or post Tsunami
Good info @SteveKen. Having the MSD starter gives me comfort. I'll still wrap it though. Might also wrap the turbo oil feed line.
Not much progress made over last couple of days - waiting for parts and other projects interfered. But today I did get to gutting the pre-cats from the stock downpipes. I had previously thought to use aftermarket downpipes, but after reading about others struggling to work with the placement of the 02 sensor bung holes (getting in the way of shifter linkage) and at the suggestion from @nubcake, I decided to stick with stock and remove the pre-cats.
A job I do not care to do ever again. What a mess, and what a fight these cats put up. Took me the best part of five hours. Wish i had welding skills.
I tore out the braided shield from the flexipipe on one of the downpipes while wrestling with it. Didn't realize it was happening until it was over. Not sure what do about it. Annoyed.
Audi RS4 B7, Audi RS6 C5, Audi Allroad 2.7T C5, Audi S4 Cab 4.2L 6MT B6, Audi A6 6MT 2.7T C5, '77 Mercedes 450SEL
At this point, you can get new vibrant flex joints but chances are they will not match the exact dimensions of what you have now.Good info @SteveKen. Having the MSD starter gives me comfort. I'll still wrap it though. Might also wrap the turbo oil feed line.
Not much progress made over last couple of days - waiting for parts and other projects interfered. But today I did get to gutting the pre-cats from the stock downpipes. I had previously thought to use aftermarket downpipes, but after reading about others struggling to work with the placement of the 02 sensor bung holes (getting in the way of shifter linkage) and at the suggestion from @nubcake, I decided to stick with stock and remove the pre-cats.
A job I do not care to do ever again. What a mess, and what a fight these cats put up. Took me the best part of five hours. Wish i had welding skills.
I tore out the braided shield from the flexipipe on one of the downpipes while wrestling with it. Didn't realize it was happening until it was over. Not sure what do about it. Annoyed.
I'd still recommend the XSpower ones. The left front O2 sensor bung can be bent out of the way of the shift rod when it's in 5-6 pretty easily. I just heat it up with a propane torch and insert a long 1/2" socket extension in the bung and then bend it out of the way.
If you have everything setup outside of the car before you put it in, it's not too bad and you can test it out.
The only pipes I've worked with that needed no modifications at all were Millteks. Otherwise, the stock ones you need to clearance the stock left side trans mount and add some abrasion resistance to the left rear O2 sensor. With the XSPower ones, you need to adjust the bung position on the left front and clearance the stock left side trans mount.
I dug up some pictures of the mods needed ot the left side trans mount and also the axle shield that hits the turbine housing.
After mod:
It's a repetitive process until you get it right:
Axle shield clearanced:
I put a piece of DEI heat tape on both sides to add some heat resistance:
Installed:
Last edited by SteveKen; November 21st, 2019 at 14:48.
2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
2001 Honda S2000 - 1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 - 1965 GMC 1500 WideSide
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