Tensioner shoes are shot for sure, but you know that. For the tensioner itself, there is a point in the rotation that it will be slack on the top side...do you have a lock pin in the crank yet? If yes, then the tensioner is toast, but I can't imagine that it didn't sound like a jackhammer under the valve cover being that loose while running and even jump time on the cam. I'd give it a few rotations and see what the action is on the tensioners before replacing.

On the oil leak, mine was the same...I actually had drips coming down from the crank which were hard to see in pics, but definitely there. I was getting drips out of the two holes in the bell housing and running back on the transmission pan. I replaced my rear main seal with the whole plate assembly OEM from Audi...you can buy just the large gasket aftermarket, and some have been successful with this, but I'm not taking a chance on this part. Replacing is very easy, just not cheap, IIRC about $375 for the plate/seal combo OEM.

Quick note on the crank bearing spacer that you need to remove, go with the tap method...I tried pulling, but was unsuccessful...ended up cutting and grinding for a few days very carefully not to damage the crank...go with the drill, tap, and bolt method first.

Unfortunately, my photo hosting site crapped on me and went black...I've used it for 20 years...real bummer as my thread is now photo less for the most part....

I do have all of the pics on my phone, and may try to reload through my new host if/when I can find time....