I am dealing with the exact same right now. On control arms - what are the best practices to determine they are bad, are there any visual cues. Of course I have tried to move/shake them
I am dealing with the exact same right now. On control arms - what are the best practices to determine they are bad, are there any visual cues. Of course I have tried to move/shake them
SOLD - 2003 RS6 Black on Black / SE / Solar / Carbon / APR ECU + TCU / Wagner Intercoolers / Fog light delete / RNS-E / LED tails / Clear Corners / Sportek Cooling / itg filters /
my vibration issues were solved by changing two tires and a meticulous alignment. Thankfully I didn't have to go further than that, but man, that 70mph vibration was absolutely maddening.
Hankooks do flatspot, but a lot of high-performance tires will do that in the cold. Once the tire warms up all is well.
Das Silberkugel - Eurocharged Stage 2/MTM/Level 10/Hotchkis/Koni/H&R
2015 Ducati 1299S Panigale
2014 Ducati Multistrada Granturismo
How about tie rod ends? Are they known to go bad and cause a vibration? Mine look ok.
Trying to chase this vibration down really hampers the enjoyment of the beast.
What about dynamic wheel balancing. A buddy of mine used to have a wheel balancer that you would roll up to the car when it was on the lift. It would spin the wheel fast and there was a strobe light that would flash at the spot that was heavy. Kind of like a timing light. I think that if you could spin each wheel maybe you could at least narrow down a corner to focus in on.
Vibration at 65-80, just had the car put back together, new wheels, also hit a nasty pothole last week, taking the wheels in for a check...
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com