Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 18 of 42

Thread: Hopping on the O1E bandwagon

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    34

    Hopping on the O1E bandwagon

    5HP24 is on it's way out. Doesn't make financial sense to me to have it rebuilt just for it to fail in another 30k miles so I'm going down the path of the 01E conversion.

    Plan is to use the SteveKen kit with his starter and I picked up a 2.7T donor car (sans motor/trans) for driveshafts, axles and pedals. For the transmission itself I'm debating whether I should get a good used one or a bad one and rebuild it. The good used would obviously be easier on the wallet but I also don't want to have to pull the engine again anytime soon. I'll be deleting the rear O2 sensors and SAI while everything is out.

    Things I haven't decided on are gutting the cats (I don't have emissions in MN, so no concern there) and the clutch/flywheel combo.

    The only other concern area I have is the health of the turbos since there has been quite a bit of oil in the driver side intercooler pipe.
    Last edited by NerdyDeeds; March 14th, 2021 at 02:02.

  2. #2
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    34
    I started last weekend, got most of the work done towards pulling the engine/trans out. I'm got the TotalTechnik video, definitely worth the $30!













    My Big Helper:

  3. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    34
    Continuing disassembly, I got the cats off. There's one turbo to manifold nut that's stuck, the one on the driver turbo nearest to the transmission. There wasn't enough of the triple square exposed for the bit to engage and I've managed to round the exterior hex a bit.

    I'm thinking that drilling out the stud is going to be the way to go, then I can get the turbo free from the flange. Then hopefully there's enough meat left that I can extract the stud with a vice grips or weld a nut back on to torque it out.

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    201
    Congrats on jumping in on your project! I'd definitely do a turbo rebuild if you have everything apart...I did it and it's easy and not very expensive with some Melett CHRAs. Also, I totally agree on the TotalTechnik video...saved me a lot of time and headache with some of the simple tricks that matter if you haven't pulled the RS6 motor before. Good luck on getting that stud out...it was one on my biggest fears on my disassembly, but I got all of mine out ok.

    Keep us posted on your progress!

  5. #5
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    34
    Muggy, where'd you source the CHRAs from?

    Stud came out pretty easy once I cross drilled and put a screwdriver through it.


    Next up is separating the transmission from the engine.

  6. #6
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    201
    I picked up mine from
    https://www.turborebuild.co.uk

    Shocked that they came in about a week from the UK! Seem like quality units with balance sheets for each included. I haven't run them yet as my motor is still out though...

  7. #7
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Roy, WA
    Posts
    3,156
    A lot of the oil you see in the Intercoolers comes from the PVC system and not from the Turbos. How many miles on the car? If it is a fairly high mileage car it's still a good idea to rebuild the Turbos while the engine is out. RS6 motor is a great candidate for dual Oil Catch cans.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  8. #8
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    34
    @hahnmgh63, it has 155k on the car so it's probably due anyways for a turbo rebuild.

    Update:
    I have the car and engine pretty much stripped as far down as I was planning on. The valve cover gaskets had a little bit of weeping but once they were off it looks like the left side cam chain tensioner is shot. The guides are worn out for sure. The right side tensioner guides look good and the chain is tight and when I push down on the tensioner it gives a little then pops back up. With the left side the chain is loose and there's no give/return of the tensioner which makes me pretty sure that it needs to be replaced. Does that sound right?
    Right tensioner:


    Left Tensioner:



    The other area of concern is the rear main seal. There's a *little* bit of oil weeping through the seal, you can kind of see the light reflecting off of it. The bigger worry is where the rest of the oil on the back of the block is coming from. Could this just be oil from other parts of the engine migrating up from below?

  9. #9
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    201
    Tensioner shoes are shot for sure, but you know that. For the tensioner itself, there is a point in the rotation that it will be slack on the top side...do you have a lock pin in the crank yet? If yes, then the tensioner is toast, but I can't imagine that it didn't sound like a jackhammer under the valve cover being that loose while running and even jump time on the cam. I'd give it a few rotations and see what the action is on the tensioners before replacing.

    On the oil leak, mine was the same...I actually had drips coming down from the crank which were hard to see in pics, but definitely there. I was getting drips out of the two holes in the bell housing and running back on the transmission pan. I replaced my rear main seal with the whole plate assembly OEM from Audi...you can buy just the large gasket aftermarket, and some have been successful with this, but I'm not taking a chance on this part. Replacing is very easy, just not cheap, IIRC about $375 for the plate/seal combo OEM.

    Quick note on the crank bearing spacer that you need to remove, go with the tap method...I tried pulling, but was unsuccessful...ended up cutting and grinding for a few days very carefully not to damage the crank...go with the drill, tap, and bolt method first.

    Unfortunately, my photo hosting site crapped on me and went black...I've used it for 20 years...real bummer as my thread is now photo less for the most part....

    I do have all of the pics on my phone, and may try to reload through my new host if/when I can find time....

  10. #10
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    34
    I don't have the crank pin in yet and it tightened up after rotating 45 degrees or so. Now, is there a part number for just the guides??

    Thanks for the heads up on the bearing spacer. I don't have a good bearing puller for that so the drill and tap method sounds the best.

  11. #11
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    201
    Unfortunately, Audi doesn't sell just the plastic shoes...lots available on eBay and that's where I picked mine up. Kind of hit or miss on these...I tried the RKX ones to support a US based business, but found that they did not fit correctly. The issue with them was the area where they snap on to the tensioner, it was more rounded and not squared off like the OEM and wouldn't stay put to my satisfaction. Good thing I guess is they are cheap if you don't like the first set that you find. I also sprung for the Audi tool...about $25 I think from Europa, but no issues with it cracking to pieces like the cheap copy that comes with some of the shoes.

  12. #12
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    34
    New shoes are on hand, hopefully they fit.

    I have the new CHRAs installed and spinning free. Unfortunately when I was taking them apart the nut on the drivers side wastegate rod was frozen and I sheared the rod. I'm going to cut another length off then thread the end to put a coupling nut in the middle along with a new piece of threaded rod that will go into the arm, so no big deal there. A little bit of researched I did looked like the wastegate should open between 6-9psi, but I didn't find a clear value. Any input here would be appreciated.

    It also looks like I have been spinning the engine backwards while taking the transmission off and getting to TDC. TotalTechnik says to turn it COUNTER-clockwise and everyone else, including the Audi shop manual, says to turn it clockwise. Could I have damaged anything by going around a few times the wrong way?

  13. #13
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    201
    Cool, just make sure the shoes snap on and stay on...my first set would click on either side, but not both together.

    On the wastegate, pretty sure that Nubcake mentioned further back in my thread to tighten enough so you can't spin the flapper around easily and then 2 more turns on the nut. Opening is controlled by the N75, so it's not like the old school way of changing the tension on this to mess with the boost on non computer cars. The only reason really to test would be to rule out any issues with the wastegate actuators, not so much for opening "pressure" settings.

    On the reverse turning, I always heard clockwise...not sure of possible damage, but I doubt it with a few turns. Main issue I can think of would be for setting timing...definitely needs to go in the right direction for proper cam timing when you get to that point. That said, someone may chime in with other things to think about with a reverse rotation...I didn't think that resting the wheels on the ground without the axles torqued would be an issue, but apparently it destroys the bearings immediately. Check Jolio's old thread and see some balls rolling around in the street on one of his early test drives...I have new bearings to install when the time comes on mine.

    You source a trans yet?

  14. #14
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by Muggy View Post
    The only reason really to test would be to rule out any issues with the wastegate actuators, not so much for opening "pressure" settings.
    I disagree. I would absolutely test wastegate cracking with every turbo replacement. A mityvac is cheap, and synchronization between the two sides is more important than the exact absolute cracking spec.

  15. #15
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Evil Empire
    Posts
    445
    Sync is important indeed.
    That's why I usually tell people to use "it's just fully closed now" as a reference point & then add some more preload (same to both turbos!)
    You will "automatically" get them syncronized this way. Sure, double-checking with a mityvac won't hurt anything, but won't bring any additional benefit either.

  16. #16
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    68
    Different strokes for different folks. I would always recommend verification of synchronized opening. Wastegate troubleshooting is not fun with the engine in the car. It obviously comes down to preference though, and your way is not wrong.

  17. #17
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    34
    Since the passenger side wastegate didn't get disturbed I'm inclined to use the mityvac to find the cracking pressure then adjust the drivers side to match. They should open at the same pressure right?

    I'm picking up a gearbox this weekend. I'm going to chance it on it being a good used box and spend the money on injectors and fuel pump for E85 conversion.

  18. #18
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    201
    Quote Originally Posted by jibberjive View Post
    Different strokes for different folks. I would always recommend verification of synchronized opening. Wastegate troubleshooting is not fun with the engine in the car. It obviously comes down to preference though, and your way is not wrong.
    I appreciate the inputs from you and nubcake on this...so, for a double check, is there a good opening pressure to shoot for? I totally understand that balancing the 2 to open at equal pressures is the primary goal, but there is a big difference between 6 and 9 psi...do you have a target suggestion? I'm inclined to assume closer to 6, but a solid number from those that know would be appreciated.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •