Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 37 to 51 of 51

Thread: Hopping on the O1E bandwagon

  1. #37
    Registered User RS8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    240
    An example: These 1000cc injectors I used is rated to 3 bar/ 946cc, 4 bar/ 1080cc
    With 3bar FPR and E85 they was open 79% on a dyno pull where I got 770hp or 642whp at 1.1 bar boost,
    and if I use the same injector calculator it shows that I need 960cc to reach 770hp with 79% duty and BSFC set to 0.75

    To reach 1000 hp I need 1246cc injectors, for 1200hp I need 1495cc injectors.

    The flow can also vary 5-10% on these injectors, so you do not know exactly how much they flow if you do not buy them with flow paper.
    So these 630cc perhaps only flows 590cc or less !

    These new 1500cc I now have can vary up to 15% !! (This is what the Bosch factory in Germany told me when I asked them)
    The one I have shows 1470cc on the flowpapier and all in 0% difference = 100% flow matched.

    So you should ALWAYS buy flowmatched injectors and get papier on this !!
    RS6 engine, 6spd tdi 01E, upgraded RS6 turbos, custom built exhaust manifolds, A8 intake camshafts, wagners ic's, bigger fuel rails, AN8 fuel line, walbro 450lph fuel pump
    and EV14 1000cc/95lb fuel injectors in my S8/RS8

  2. #38
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Evil Empire
    Posts
    448
    I don't get what you're arguing about.
    OP had already bought & installed those injectors & they're sufficient for his goals.

    For your car - just by installing a 4 bar FPR you're going to 880hp "max" with 1000ccs at the same max IDC.
    Then by pushing it to 90% (which is far from static and still within safety overhead), you get to ~1k.
    (I'm not even talking how unrelated those figures are to the OPs car).

    Flow variation is another subject & I know at least Bosch 1000cc have several "tolerance groups". I'm fairly sure the variation you're quoting is for overall "spectrum" of them all.
    I don't have any papier proof, but in my experience "off the shelf" 1000cc 040 injectors are just fine, if all are marked with the same color dot (same tolerance group). Some clients had them flow-tested & ended up within 1-3%. Which is perfectly fine.
    YMMV.

  3. #39
    Registered User RS8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    240
    These were just kind warnings and help, if he has not used them yet then maybe it is possible to get them exchanged for bigger, but of course he does not have to do it if he does not want more power.


    Regarding flow variation, I bought 8pcs 1500cc from a webshop that said that they were matched by Bosch but I did not get a paper on this so I let another company measure them and there was a difference of up to 11% between them! If I had mounted them, there would have been a risk that I would have melted some engine pistons.
    It was after this that I researched and even talked to Bosch, so I returned these injectors and bought from another company that has flow-matched injectors, have since heard of others who discovered this flow variation from other companies.
    One guy bought 1300cc injectors and after flow test it showed all had different flow and it showed between 1187cc to 1264cc

    Bosch answered me: A normal tolerance is less as 5 % but this high flow injectors are without an orifice plate so it is possible to have 15 %.

    So this is just a nice warning and something you should keep in mind when buying injectors.
    RS6 engine, 6spd tdi 01E, upgraded RS6 turbos, custom built exhaust manifolds, A8 intake camshafts, wagners ic's, bigger fuel rails, AN8 fuel line, walbro 450lph fuel pump
    and EV14 1000cc/95lb fuel injectors in my S8/RS8

  4. #40
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Evil Empire
    Posts
    448
    Do you have part numbers?
    I have a strong suspicion you're talking CNG high-flow injectors & it's very typical for them to be so different.
    1000cc 040s do have the orifice plate, and they're normally close together "as is".

    I'm not sure why you extrapolate the issues with bigger (likely CNG!) injectors onto the smaller ones & still keep insisting the bigger ones are absolutely necessary, when it's not even the case.
    A bit of a "unnecessarily create more issues for myself!" mindset.

    Either way, I think that's a bit offtopic for this thread, so I suggest we stop this discussion. OP surely has enough info by now.

  5. #41
    Registered User RS8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    240
    This is NOT CNG injectors.
    My 1500cc has part no 0280158333

    I don't know the part number on the EV14 1300cc.

    The 1000cc I used before is 0280158040, they was bought as flow matched set.

    But even the smaller ones like 630cc can have 5% difference!
    Last edited by RS8; April 6th, 2021 at 18:48.
    RS6 engine, 6spd tdi 01E, upgraded RS6 turbos, custom built exhaust manifolds, A8 intake camshafts, wagners ic's, bigger fuel rails, AN8 fuel line, walbro 450lph fuel pump
    and EV14 1000cc/95lb fuel injectors in my S8/RS8

  6. #42
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    40
    Slowly making progress here. Mostly still finding more things to replace/repair. The good news I had is that the transmission I bought looks to be in really good shape. No brinelling/wear on the gears/bearing races and all the syncros look like they're in good shape. I've still decided to do a full rebuild using the JHM syncros and upgraded 1-2 shift collar. I am also going to do the 4:1 center diff mod using the JHM shims which should be a hoot with the 6sp.

    1st gear in gear condition:


    Someone had made a home under the intake at some point. I had to remove this because of the knock sensor connectors had disintegrated and needed to be replaced. Along with the sensors I'm also replacing the after-run coolant pump.


    The RS6 coolant pump part number comes with the mounting bracket and is no longer available. I bought 078121601 (Gates part number 41530E from Rock Auto) which is the pump and rubber isolator only. With this pump the inlet/outlet ports needed to be switched which was just a matter of unscrewing the cover and rotating it 180 degrees. I don't have a lot of confidence in the gasket so I need to do a pressure test before I reinstall it still.
    Old on the left, new on the right. Notice the arrows.


    I've also taken off the oil cooler and found the bufkin pipe to be broken. I'm going to turn a new one out of aluminum as a replacement. Definitely use a high quality allen wrench when breaking the bolts loose on the housing. I used some sunex sockets and they stripped out. Luckily the Irwin screw extractors that grab on the OD of the bolt worked as they should and I got them out without much fuss. The Bondhaus allen keys with some taps of a hammer got the rest out.


    Aside from that I've replaced the intake cam seal on the passenger side and the crankshaft seal on the front and spent a lot of time cleaning up the block from the previous leaks. The water pump leak that I thought was from the freeze plug was actually just coolant wicking up around the gasket. When I did the water pump last time I had to put in a helicoil and left a burr on the sealing surface that didn't get knocked down. Should be good to go now with a new pump and hardware. The drivers side cams are back in and the valve covers on.

    Next steps are to finish the rebuild of the transmission, replace the broken hose under the intake and get that back on, and re-install the oil cooler and filter mount.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210421_180730.jpg 
Views:	198 
Size:	86.2 KB 
ID:	19425   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210417_172227.jpg 
Views:	195 
Size:	56.2 KB 
ID:	19426   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210503_203532.jpg 
Views:	198 
Size:	51.9 KB 
ID:	19427   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210503_203713.jpg 
Views:	196 
Size:	53.8 KB 
ID:	19428  

  7. #43
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    40
    Lots of progress since the last update.

    I got the trans rebuilt without any issues (as far as I can tell at this point). The 4:1 center diff mod was an easy swap of some shims.

    The motor is put back together with the aluminum "bufkin" pipe to replace the broken plastic one along with new hoses and all new vacuum lines. I've spent quite a bit of time cleaning up all the oil/dirt that's been accumulating over the years so hopefully new oil leaks will be easy to spot. New timing belt, water pump, and idlers even though they were just a few thousand miles old.


    I gutted the cat's and wrapped the exhaust headers and down pipes as best I could. Got rid of the downstream O2 sensor. I sync'd the wastegates by putting the open end of a wrench on the actuator, then pulling with a spring hooked on the box end. I started with the wastegate that wasn't taken apart and pulled the spring so it was perpendicular to the wrench and measured the length of the spring when the wrench just started to move. I then did the same thing on the other side, adjusting the pre-load until wrench started moving at the same spring length as the other side.


    I've gotten the pedals swapped over and the wiring updated so we should be good from that side of things now. I started putting the engine back into the car, it really doesn't look like it should fit in there.


    I have the clutch bled, I hope. I did lock up the front output flanges and then spun the rear output flange by hand with the clutch engaged and disengaged and it seems to be working. There's just a weird feeling in the pedal when it's returning. The brakes need to be bled too, so maybe that's it?

    I was going to re-use the stock motor mounts but I broke the connector off of one so now I'm waiting for the 034 mounts to come in before I set the engine down all the way. Just connecting up as much as I can at this point.

    Another thing that seems weird is that I can't feel the stop between first/second gates and the reverse gate. My other manual cars have had the push down reverse to get into the gate. It looks like there may be some shifter boxes that don't have that feature, is that right? The part number I bought was 8D0711055Q - https://www.ebay.com/itm/20326316171...m=203263161715

  8. #44
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    261
    Good progress! You should definitely have a push down lock on the reverse...the used shifter assembly that I got with my swap kit was trash and the reverse lockout tab was smashed off...
    I went with the JHM setup that has a nice crisp lockout now, but should be the same with an OEM assembly in good shape. Let me see if I can take a pic of my junk OEM one to point out what to look for...

    On the clutch bleed, even though it is technically attached to the braking system, it's really totally independent except for the fluid reservoir...that said, if it had enough fluid to fill the clutch system, the brakes needing a bleed really should not matter for the clutch. I used a power bleeder on mine to put a little positive pressure on the master, cracked the nipple open twice, and I was good! If the return feels funky, I hope that you have the clutch slave and throwout bearing all installed properly...the fluid shouldn't have much effect on the return action from what I can tell so far with mine.

  9. #45
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    261
    Take a look at this area on the shifter assembly...it should have a bit of a hook on the shifter (white) and beveled edge on the box (black, mangled on mine in the pic) that you need to push the shifter down to be able to engage.




  10. #46
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Roy, WA
    Posts
    3,199
    Also, with the O1E, due to the placement of the Slave cylinder, you get the best bleed obviously with a Power Bleeder but it helps if you have the rear of the car a little higher than the front, at least with the metal Slave cylinder, can't remember what the plastic one looks like.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  11. #47
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    40
    I used a power bleeder on the clutch but the grommet doesn't seal great around the bleed nipple and was letting air into the lines so it was hard to see when the fluid was coming out consistently. The weird feeling in the pedal happens when I pull my foot back quickly the pedal doesn't keep up and so the pressure on my foot drops away.

    For the shifter, it looks like my shifter is a one piece shaft so it doesn't have a push-down ability. I think my path forward now is to get the JHM solid shift kit.


  12. #48
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    261
    Interesting about the pedal feel...I'd be concerned about that. The power bleeder that I used actually screws onto the master up top and pressurizes from the top down, so no suction issues trying to pull it down through the lines like the Mity-Vac style things do on the bleeder nipple. Mine so far has no issues at all on the clutch pedal and springs back quickly, hopefully someone else has additional thoughts...just hoping that everything is cool on your clutch assembly and pressure plate which I imagine would give feedback to the slave and then to the pedal. I've heard that it can be easy to install the slave so that the plunger doesn't line up right with the throwout bearing fork. Since the fork kind of floats on the hinge, I could see how that could happen pretty easily, resulting in a funky clutch feel...just a thought.

    Also, did you re-use old lines for the master to slave line? Many times, the inside of the rubber hose portion will fail and collapse where you can't see from the outside...lets pressure go in when you stomp on it, but doesn't allow much fluid back with the lighter pressure from the clutch side...image a clogged artery when you see the pics of cholesterol clogging it up, kind of like a check valve in a bad way! I replaced mine with the braided stainless line and metal slave (and metal master too). In fact, the more I think about it, I'd say that this is a strong possibility for your problem if you re-used an old line.

    For the shifter, I don't think that yours will work...just go with the JHM, its a beast! I also ordered the new plastic housing from them that it goes into for another $80 or so...mine was junk and not sure if their shifter would fit into what you have now.

  13. #49
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    40
    The hydraulics of the clutch feel good so I think it's something with the return spring. Did I get the torsion spring in correctly?


    For the shifter assembly, it looks like I may have an early style unit that's just missing the reverse lockout. I'm working with JHM to figure out what I'm missing or if their kit takes care of my problem.

    I also got the firewall fuse block wired back in. I couldn't find a good picture so here's what I did.


    And here's a shot of the wiring for the clutch switch where the white wire is spliced into the white wire on the brake switch.

  14. #50
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    261
    Return spring looks good...I think there is really only one way to get it in there...I'd still be suspicious of the soft part of the slave line...if you used an old one, they are definitely known to fail and not just on Audis, had a similar issue on my old Mini too. Pushing in should feel ok as you are putting positive pressure on it..but the return has a lot less pressure from the throwout bearing/clutch and return spring on the pedal.

    Wiring looks good on both firewall and clutch, assuming that the other wire on clutch switch heads up to the ECU pin 39.

  15. #51
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    40
    I have the braided clutch lines. It could be I'm imagining something and when I'm actually driving it's fine. I checked the bleed again and I'm confident that's done correctly. The engagement is pretty close to the floor but I don't think there's much to do in terms of adjusting that at this point.


    I went ahead with the full JHM solid short throw shifter and bushing trio. It sounds like all the plastic shifter bases are the same, and it looked like my shifter shaft was from an early style so I went with the early kit. I'm missing the clamping nut for the linkage still but it seems like the shifter more or less works right.

    I checked all the electrical connectors and gave it a test fire for a couple of seconds and it fired right up which gives me the green light to start putting the front clip back on and getting coolant/oil back into the engine. I'm hoping I can get it driving sometime this weekend. I have half a tank of gas to get through before I can refill with E85 and put a tune on it and get the auto trans coded out.

    One hiccup I ran into was with the alternator. While trying to get it back in I grabbed the back side and snapped off the connector. I bought a new voltage regulator but the connector on the harness was broken too. I cut one off the parts car but I forgot to write down which pin is used. Can anyone verify that there's just one wire going to the regulator and that it's in pin 2 of the connector?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •