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Thread: Hopping on the O1E bandwagon

  1. #55
    Registered User IchBautAuto's Avatar
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    May not be the only reason but it still smacks of adjustment issues. There are a variety of linkage sets for the 01E, are you confident that your whole setup from shifter to gearbox is homogeneous. I mentioned in another post that my setup with short shifter doesn't exhibit any of the issues mentioned here. I have a spare 01E with everything JHM offers installed in and out and the PO (who totalled his car) was able to set the quickest 0-100 times recorded for a tte550 equipped car, so shift quality cannot have been an issue either.

    Over time people have mentioned issues with the plastic vs metal slave cylinders, deteriorating hydraulic hose, gearbox spacer issues and difficulty in adapting some clutch systems plus of course flywheel issues of all sorts.
    2003 Sportec RS6, 2001 Revo RS4, 2000 A4 GP quattro, 1963 Unimog 404 TLF8

  2. #56
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    I was disappointed at mine...fiddled several times, now changed to the 10% reduction instead of the 35% on the JHM shifter...so much better now!

  3. #57
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    A couple of things I found. First was I didn't clearance/cut off enough of the bottom of the shift linkage when putting the solid bearing in. After grinding that away I was able to get it into reverse a lot easier but was still having trouble with 1st and 2nd. I've probably adjusted it 3 dozen times and can feel when it should be good because the other gears feel awesome. I switched to the 10% since I read a few places that the 35% reduction doesn't always work right. Just by chance, at the same time the clutch decided to stop disengaging so I couldn't get any gears easily. I've been suspecting that the line may not have been bleed all the way and this pretty much confirms it. The odd thing, I think, is that the when I went to bleed it the fluid came out pretty dark grey. I'm working on flushing it out and doing a better job getting it bled, but I'm worried that there could be something wrong with the master clutch cylinder. I don't see any fluid leaking from it inside the car but I also don't know if the donor car had any problems before I took the pedals out.

  4. #58
    Registered User IchBautAuto's Avatar
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    No doubt we all have variations in our setups but I haven't ever heard of the need to grind any section of the shift linkage. I'm guessing that you are absolutely sure that your whole linkage setup is from the one variant. One of the lessons I learnt with Audi is many jobs are difficult, so not refurbishing stuff before installation has the potential to be a major PIA.

    I have a number of Audi with manual gearboxes and while the standard setup can be a bit long throw and soft with the clutch, I can say they all work perfectly. Add a short shifter and a properly designed clutch and they still work perfectly. The point of the comment is that if the correct parts are used, you guys really shouldn't be having the issues with the 01E shift that you are having. It's really a reasonable setup and although there are better boxes and shifts out there, it can be made quite respectable with a short shifter and +15 clutch. All the JHM upgrade parts are supposed to be good and I have the full internal and external catalogue in my spare box but I have yet to install it so can't say for sure. The car I'm driving today has the straight from factory box with short shifter and +15 clutch and 290,000 Km up and it's just fine. All gears are available without any baulking or any of the issues that are being raised on here.

    Fingers crossed that you can put your finger on the cause and get to enjoy the car.
    2003 Sportec RS6, 2001 Revo RS4, 2000 A4 GP quattro, 1963 Unimog 404 TLF8

  5. #59
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    So it appears that I have a bigger problem that just getting the linkage aligned. After 400 miles or so I lost the ability to disengage the clutch. After re-bleeding the clutch, adding a bleed valve in the highest point of the system, replacing the mastery cylinder, and bringing it to a shop to have them bleed it I now have a really well bled clutch line that still doesn't allow the clutch to fully disengage from the flywheel. I pulled the slave cylinder and tested the clutch pedal and the pedal becomes rock hard when the slave cylinder is bottomed out.

    I'm 95% sure that the flywheels bolts and pressure plate bolts were torqued and have red loctite on them. The loctite may have gone bad and/or I may not have torqued them.

    The metal slave cylinder from USP should be a direct drop in for this conversion correct? I didn't need to do anything on the transmission side in terms of the position of the throw-out bearing?

    I was thinking I could make a longer rod for the slave cylinder, but that could just be masking a problem with they pressure plate/flywheel and I will be in the same boat in a couple hundred miles again or worse screw something up. The longer rod could also prevent the clutch from fully engaging.

    I'm afraid my only path now is to pull the engine/trans out of the car again and separate them to check torques and measure stack-ups. Does anyone have any better suggestions or things to check before I go down that road?

  6. #60
    Registered User IchBautAuto's Avatar
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    Before you spend some time on removing the gearbox, it is worth doing a hunt as I have a vague recollection from years ago with the B5 RS4 and 01E gearbox that there were occasions when a different pushrod was required. I think I have one in my car, the take up point is very different from others. I'll have a hunt through my stuff but you won't go wrong if you chase up that idea before ripping out the box.
    2003 Sportec RS6, 2001 Revo RS4, 2000 A4 GP quattro, 1963 Unimog 404 TLF8

  7. #61
    Registered User IchBautAuto's Avatar
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    Following on there have been a raft of issues people have encountered including not resetting self adjusting clutch, internal failure of the hydraulic flexible pipe between master and slave, throw out bearing etc etc. The adjustment on the push rod seems to only have been a few mm. Many, inc ECS back in the day provided a different pushrod with their kits.
    2003 Sportec RS6, 2001 Revo RS4, 2000 A4 GP quattro, 1963 Unimog 404 TLF8

  8. #62
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Seems like something just came up if it worked for 400mi. I would double check the linkage at the Master cylinder first since that's the easiest. Then if it comes down to it you should be able to slighlty lower the engine and drop the rear of the transmission down even more to get at the slave where you could check the linkage. If it worked fine before then something came loose or popped out. I would bet on the Slave and/or linkage or the Clutch Master before I would think it was something with the clutch itself.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
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  9. #63
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    The USP metal slave is a direct drop in...so that should work for you. As far as the throwout bearing, it does have a little notch that it sits in on the lever arm.

    Here's mine installed...



    And the little tabs that line up and snap into the arm from the back side that keep it from just floating around on the shaft...


  10. #64
    Registered User IchBautAuto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hahnmgh63 View Post
    Seems like something just came up if it worked for 400mi. I would double check the linkage at the Master cylinder first since that's the easiest. Then if it comes down to it you should be able to slighlty lower the engine and drop the rear of the transmission down even more to get at the slave where you could check the linkage. If it worked fine before then something came loose or popped out. I would bet on the Slave and/or linkage or the Clutch Master before I would think it was something with the clutch itself.
    I'd agree with that, only the process has been muddied by the possible linkage issue so it really isn't that clear if it has ever been operating perfectly in the short time before this happened. You're no the only one to have issues as B5 RS4 and S4 owners regularly run into problems when they deviate from the OE setup and that a from the factory manual setup.
    2003 Sportec RS6, 2001 Revo RS4, 2000 A4 GP quattro, 1963 Unimog 404 TLF8

  11. #65
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    Thanks everyone. So the linkage issue definitely muddied the waters. At the beginning, when I would come to a stop in gear with the clutch in I didn't feel the car trying to pull forward when I let off the brakes which is why I thought it was a linkage alignment issue and not a clutch/flywheel issue. After maybe 300 miles I could tell something wasn't right because I could feel the clutch and flywheel chattering and starting to make contact even with the clutch all the way in. It then continued to get worse until the clutch wouldn't disengage at all.

    It sounds like if I added a couple mm to the slave cylinder rod it may fix the issue and I shouldn't be risking damaging anything by trying it.

    I should add that I have the metal USP cylinder, their braided lines, and have put in a new master clutch cylinder so that side of things should be good, and it does feel completely solid now that the slave is out of the transmission and bottomed out.

  12. #66
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    I got the slave cylinder out and added a 3mm shim between the rod and the piston. I was really trying to avoid cracking the bleeder valve in order to get it back in though and I was successful in that I got the slave cylinder back into the transmission. When I went to go press the pedal with my hand though I popped the piston out of the cylinder. Now I definitely have to pull the engine and trans out to separate them and clean everything up. Damn.

  13. #67
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    Sorry to hear this...frustrating for sure. Definitely one of my fears as well to do a re-pull after getting all buttoned up thinking that the hard part was over.

  14. #68
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    You should be able to just lower the engine a little and tilt it down at the back and pull the transmission separately, much more room with the manual. Sorry to hear about it, but at least you'll be able to double check everything at the back.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  15. #69
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    I've done this before, but only with the engine and transmission already out. I got the piston a little.crooked when retracting it and it popped back and broke the ring land that holds the piston in. I cheat and bleed the clutch slave using a clamp but it has to be pushed in straight and not allowed to pop back.

    I think.your initial issue is that you have a bad clutch master cylinder.
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
    2001 Honda S2000 - 1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 - 1965 GMC 1500 WideSide

  16. #70
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    Turns out the torque spec on the pressure bolts wasn't enough to fully seat them so the pressure plate wasn't completely tightened down. Oh well, live and learn.

    I don't see how it would be possible to remove the trans without pulling the engine. I had to take the pass side turbo off to get to some of the upper bolts on the bell housing. Has anyone actually been able to do that?

    Anyways, I got the engine back in and running, but it doesn't want to rev past 3000 rpm. The intake box is seated well and I believe all the sensors are hooked up as far as I can tell. The only faults that are showing for the engine module are the downstream o2 sensors because they're not there. The engine was working well with the swap before I pulled it. Could some of the soft coding get changed? Any other ideas?

  17. #71
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    Sounds like a crankshaft position sensor issue.

  18. #72
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nubcake View Post
    Sounds like a crankshaft position sensor issue.
    This almost for sure. Especially since you had just pulled it apart. Did you pull and re-install the sensor or leave it in the whole time? Easy enough to pull and take a look at it.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

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