Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 37 to 51 of 51

Thread: Group buy interest for Manual Specific or Auto all Aluminum Radiator. Wizard Cooling

  1. #37
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Roy, WA
    Posts
    3,303
    I can't take credit for the Oil cooler, got that idea from Steve Ken, found a used BMW 325i oil cooler on Ebay, flushed it when I got it and it is about the same width as the stock cooler and close to the size of the combined stock Tranny/Engine cooler but all for the engine now
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  2. #38
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Dodge City
    Posts
    520
    I'm still in, FYI.

    CW

  3. #39
    Registered User Kgnast's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Brooklyn, NYC
    Posts
    228
    Im in for Auto for the time being, will need to wait to next year for the manual swap. Auto radiator for me. I have a pin hole and the car has that coolant smell. It's also going in for some much needed maintenance in which everything is coming off the front of the motor, it would be a good to to just swap it when the other one comes out anyway. So count me in for an Auto Rad.

  4. #40
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, again...
    Posts
    4,760
    Quote Originally Posted by Kgnast View Post
    Im in for Auto for the time being, will need to wait to next year for the manual swap. Auto radiator for me. I have a pin hole and the car has that coolant smell. It's also going in for some much needed maintenance in which everything is coming off the front of the motor, it would be a good to to just swap it when the other one comes out anyway. So count me in for an Auto Rad.
    Same here, would buy a new custom auto radiator for $1k or so no problem. I've got a small crack on one of the plastic connecting parts, only leaks when below freezing thankfully, and has sort of gummed itself up for now.

    You have a good shop you use in Brooklyn, or did you run one I thought? Might be moving there this summer and bringing RS6 in tow eventually, need to find car storage...
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  5. #41
    Registered User papadoc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Palo Alto, CA
    Posts
    321
    Well I had a small leak in my radiator and you all probably know that one can no longer be found via Audi or aftermarket. Found one in Calgary with fellow RS6.com member who parted out a car. When adding up the costs since I don't wrench myself, I decided to give LiquiMoly Radiator Stop Leak a try. Not one drop has leaked since then. Really surprised how well the stuff worked, but if you are in the same boat I was in, consider giving it a try before sinking $$ into a new radiator.
    First RS6 totaled at 142K. Now donor for S6 Avant project. Daily driver: Sepang Blue 2016 S6. Black optics, sport package. #2 Black on Black, Level 10 and Koni, Eclipse Nav + Sirius, 034 Motorsports ECU and TCU tune.

  6. #42
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    323
    Quote Originally Posted by papadoc View Post
    Well I had a small leak in my radiator and you all probably know that one can no longer be found via Audi or aftermarket. Found one in Calgary with fellow RS6.com member who parted out a car. When adding up the costs since I don't wrench myself, I decided to give LiquiMoly Radiator Stop Leak a try. Not one drop has leaked since then. Really surprised how well the stuff worked, but if you are in the same boat I was in, consider giving it a try before sinking $$ into a new radiator.
    Glad to hear that this actually worked...LiquiMoly seems like a very solid product line as well. I have a small weep at the seal between my end tank and aluminum that just leaves a few drops of antifreeze hanging on the lower IC pipe after driving...I may go ahead and give this stuff a shot after watching the vid. Certainly not like the old "Barr's Leak" stuff that was like dumping chili in your radiator, but that was back in the 80's and american iron, it did work on those cars!

    Also, don't get me wrong, I'm more than willing to pay for an OEM unit or custom aluminum unit if either were available...
    Last edited by Muggy; January 31st, 2022 at 12:53.

  7. #43
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Evil Empire
    Posts
    466
    Slightly off topic, but:
    I just had aftermarket S6 radiator fitted. Nissens brand, part number 60424, super cheap (like $200). VAG OEM part number 4B3121251D.
    It's a direct drop-in replacement to the early RS6 one (if both tanks are plastic). With one important caveat: S6 is approx 1cm thinner, so less dissipation capacity. Use it cautiously in hotter environments.

    If you have one metal tank in your original radiator, S6 is NOT a direct fit. You will need to redo the aftercooling path.

    Just throwing this out here for everybody to see.

  8. #44
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    323
    Quote Originally Posted by nubcake View Post
    Slightly off topic, but:
    I just had aftermarket S6 radiator fitted. Nissens brand, part number 60424, super cheap (like $200). VAG OEM part number 4B3121251D.
    It's a direct drop-in replacement to the early RS6 one (if both tanks are plastic). With one important caveat: S6 is approx 1cm thinner, so less dissipation capacity. Use it cautiously in hotter environments.

    If you have one metal tank in your original radiator, S6 is NOT a direct fit. You will need to redo the aftercooling path.

    Just throwing this out here for everybody to see.
    Good to know...still trying to figure mine out and hoping that it's actually just the o-ring leaking on the bottom hose. Remembering now that I bought new ones, but were the wrong size when I was getting everything back together...in the weekend crunch, this would have stopped my progress, and just so anxious after 18 months to get mine running, that I used the original o-rings. Going to put mine in service position this weekend so I can actually SEE where it's leaking from.

    Anyone know what the o-ring size or part number is on these???

    Mine has the aftercooling, so concerned about that if I have to re-arrange plumbing on that if needed...may be time to study cooling paths...

  9. #45
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    White Rock, B. C., Canada
    Posts
    56
    Hi Nubcake,
    nice to hear.
    Having radiator issues, but part # with D is missing the conncetion (barblet) at lower transmission .
    At least the one we got with part ....D. Does the Nissens part have this ?
    Do YOU have pictures ?
    Cheers,
    Ivan

  10. #46
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Evil Empire
    Posts
    466
    Hi Ivan.

    That's the difference between early and late styles.
    Early style has aftercooling plumbed away from rad.
    Later style has aftercooling plumbed via the electrically controlled "flow reversal" valve located under the driver's side frame rail.
    As such, it has metal driver's side radiator tank with an extra fitting for that. I believe you're talking about that.

  11. #47
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    White Rock, B. C., Canada
    Posts
    56
    Yes indeed,
    Will use sealer for now, as leak was minor.
    Thanks
    Ivan

  12. #48
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Roy, WA
    Posts
    3,303
    FYI for those looking into it, I believe N.America only received the later style Radiators. At least looking through the parts catalogs and the 5 or 6 RS6's I've worked on have all had the later style to of course include the Aux Radiators (Hot Wx package) that all U.S spec (Canada?) got.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  13. #49
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA area
    Posts
    1,263
    Quote Originally Posted by hahnmgh63 View Post
    FYI for those looking into it, I believe N.America only received the later style Radiators. At least looking through the parts catalogs and the 5 or 6 RS6's I've worked on have all had the later style to of course include the Aux Radiators (Hot Wx package) that all U.S spec (Canada?) got.

    I think the rad on all the NA cars supports the feed to the afterrun pump.

    Over the weekend, I just disabled the aux rads on my latest purchase and they are independent of the radiator.

    My last project ran just the C5 S6 or A6 4.2 radiator which is the same P/N as certain spec'd RS6 that are non hot weather which do not run the afterrun pump. This also requires a few different components that change the flow of the coolant. Actually I think the coolant moves in the opposite direction through the turbos sans the afterrun pump.
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
    2001 Honda S2000 - 1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 - 1965 GMC 1500 WideSide

  14. #50
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Evil Empire
    Posts
    466
    Steve, correction: there actually is an afterrun pump in both configurations. Just two different flow directions. "Early style" just ties into the "normal water feed", thus doesn't really aftercool much. The "later" (or hot weather?) style actually reverses the whole coolant flow after shutoff.

    Pic shows the early style aftercooling configuration:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	aftercooling.jpg 
Views:	220 
Size:	66.2 KB 
ID:	19636  

  15. #51
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA area
    Posts
    1,263
    Ah yes. Thanks for this, as I was going off of some old memories in my head.

    Quote Originally Posted by nubcake View Post
    Steve, correction: there actually is an afterrun pump in both configurations. Just two different flow directions. "Early style" just ties into the "normal water feed", thus doesn't really aftercool much. The "later" (or hot weather?) style actually reverses the whole coolant flow after shutoff.

    Pic shows the early style aftercooling configuration:
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
    2001 Honda S2000 - 1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 - 1965 GMC 1500 WideSide

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •