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Thread: Muggy's RS6 Refresh 2020

  1. #91
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    Sensor mounting location in the MT housing is shifted by the same angle.
    You should be good.

  2. #92
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    Ahhh, fantastic! I don't have a manual trans in front of me yet, so didn't even consider that as a possible scenario!

    Your quick reply is much appreciated so I'm not worrying about figuring this out all day!

  3. #93
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    So I'm on to the next issue that I knew I'd need to deal with and hopefully the answer is as easy as I think it is...I'd rather figure this out now while I have easy access to the harness if needed for some surgery before it goes back in the car.

    I've done the SAI delete with the block off plates, vacuum line loop/cap, and have the updated tune from Nubcake (thank you!) for it. Now, as many of you have probably seen, or maybe don't want to see...the wires running the power and ground for the SAI pump have an extremely brittle sheathing, I'm guessing from heat over the years. Both the power and ground wires have the sheathing crumbling off all the way through the harness up to the fuse block. Most people with the SAI delete could just unplug it and let it hang, but I'll have major issues if I do that and the SAI is triggered through the relay to get power for some reason. Long story short, can I just pull the big orange 40 amp fuse and call it a day? From what I see, you have the power coming into the harness from the white block at the ECU box, then jumping over to the SAI only 40a fuse block, then jumping over to the relay, and then the power wire out of the relay to the harness end is what is disintegrated. Only that wire and the associated ground wire are like this...must be an old hangup from earlier VW's...they were notorious for ground wires disintegrating inside of the sheathing and wreaking havoc with ground problems everywhere.

    So, pull the fuse and all is good with the SAI delete tune? Y or N? Thanks for your thoughts! I'd love not to have to cut that harness apart! Thanks Jolio for donating your semi cut spare for my dissection experiment!

    Power in from largest red wire here...



    Jumps to fuse block here...



    And red/black tracer jumps to relay here...



    And shinier red wire that is disintegrating out from relay to SAI connector...




  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muggy View Post

    CPS window where my finger is...



    Any thoughts, comments, and insight welcomed, thanks!
    Is your crank timing pin inserted? I may be wrong, but if I remember correctly the timing window on the flywheel should be at 10-11 o'clock? If you look at where the 01e CPS is located, it almost looks like you're 180 degree's off timing, (assuming the timing pin is installed)

    20201228_161106 by Joel Francisco

    Maybe someone else will chime in, just something I noticed

  5. #95
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    Thanks Joel,
    I appreciate your thoughts...crank lock pin is in. As I mentioned, I used a faint ghost dot on the back of the flywheel that matched up to that extra hole on the end of the crank to install where yours was. It is 180 off from the sensor, but my main concern I guess was that the window didn't match up to the auto version, which makes sense now that the sensor is in a different spot on the bell housing...close, but about an hour north of the auto location. This would correspond to the different window location, albeit 180 off right now. I'll fiddle some more today...I haven't locked the flywheel down yet, as I wanted to confirm location first!

    I appreciate your input, and anyone else that wants to check in!

  6. #96
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    Amazingly enough, more progress today! I decided to tackle the joyous job of adjusting the oil and coolant line by the starter. As expected, it was a finicky thing to work with, but I'm happy with what I came up with...







    And a test alignment of the starter...



    And just a reminder for input on the crank position sensor window at about 4:00...as Nubcake pointed out, I'm fine on the shift of the window from 2:00 to 4:00 for the auto-manual swap, but just want to confirm that I'm in the right position at 4:00 with the crank lock pin in so I can lock it down and move on (since there are no positioning dowels/keyways, etc.)... and also if I can just yank the fuse for the SAI pump and call it a day on that issue. Much appreciated!

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muggy View Post
    Thanks Joel,
    I appreciate your thoughts...crank lock pin is in. As I mentioned, I used a faint ghost dot on the back of the flywheel that matched up to that extra hole on the end of the crank to install where yours was. It is 180 off from the sensor, but my main concern I guess was that the window didn't match up to the auto version, which makes sense now that the sensor is in a different spot on the bell housing...close, but about an hour north of the auto location. This would correspond to the different window location, albeit 180 off right now. I'll fiddle some more today...I haven't locked the flywheel down yet, as I wanted to confirm location first!

    I appreciate your input, and anyone else that wants to check in!
    Ok, just a follow up on this and to put it on the record for anyone searching for this...there is only one way to install the flywheel on the 10 bolt crank. There is the offset tapped hole (not a crank bolt hole) that indicates where there will be a slightly larger gap in the flywheel bolt spacing...making it a one position only situation to get all 10 bolts in. I was worried as I just put a couple in to hang the crank for a test fit, but then rotated to match where it had been aligned by Joel on his install (faint ghost mark on the back of the fly to match that offset hole). Turns out that when I did this, it was in the correct position and I stuck all 10 bolts in. If I hadn't rotated it from the test hang and tried to put in all 10 bolts, I would have figured this out pretty quickly...

    With all of my reading, I found info on the 8 bolt 2.7t cranks that said you could install in a couple of positions and was worried that I could be in the same situation, but no worries on the 10 bolt...one way only!

    Slightly wider gap here at my finger (where the offset hole is behind the fly)...



    And this positions the trigger window at about 4:00 with the crank lock pin in, which is about 180 degrees (approx) from the CPS.



    The auto box trigger window is at about 2:00...and the difference in angle is due to the different position of the CPS on the 01E (thanks Nubcake for confirming)....

  8. #98
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    Well....looks like the photo hosting service that I've been using for 20 years (Fototime) took a crap on me...just went black now for more than a week...real bummer as I find past threads with photos very instructional and entertaining, and created this thread to be just that for others looking for info and inspiration. At least Photosukit gave people the opportunity to pay a ransom and buy into a paid service...

    I may try to re-populate with pics from the new host, but in the meantime, if anyone coming across this wants pics, I still have them and will re-upload at some point.

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muggy View Post
    Well....looks like the photo hosting service that I've been using for 20 years (Fototime) took a crap on me...just went black now for more than a week...real bummer as I find past threads with photos very instructional and entertaining, and created this thread to be just that for others looking for info and inspiration. At least Photosukit gave people the opportunity to pay a ransom and buy into a paid service...

    I may try to re-populate with pics from the new host, but in the meantime, if anyone coming across this wants pics, I still have them and will re-upload at some point.
    That sucks. If you get time, I would love to see the pics again. After the photobucket saga, I started using imgur. But photobucket scarred me, and now I don't trust that anyone will be around long-term anymore. Imgur's been good so far though.

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by jibberjive View Post
    That sucks. If you get time, I would love to see the pics again. After the photobucket saga, I started using imgur. But photobucket scarred me, and now I don't trust that anyone will be around long-term anymore. Imgur's been good so far though.
    Thanks...this gives me a push to get it done...I'm using ImgBB now as a trial...seems to be working pretty well.
    Now if I can just find the "edit" option to re-add links...maybe it's too early in the morning...4:00 wake up today...the one day in the last month that I can actually sleep in with no alarm...

  11. #101
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    Scored a nice set of RS4 wheels...decent enough shape and rubber to tool around town for a trial fit. If I'm happy, I'll have them redone and re-skinned...I've always loved this style and found a set for a great deal and local so no shipping hassles/expense. No curb rash and seem to be nice and straight...not too much weight on for balancing which is always a good sign and came off of a running RS4 clone car that the PO swapped to Rotors instead. Finish is a good 5-footer...plenty of blems in a mediocre repaint, but seem to be good candidates for a full refinish if I so choose.





    Also got the word that I should be seeing my trans on the back of a truck by the end of the week!
    Can't wait to make some real progress....

    And the look that I'm going for with the new to me rollers...photo picked from a BAT listing a couple of years ago but matches my color and wheel combo...I won't be quite this low since I'm static on Bilstiens and H&R springs...



    Last edited by Muggy; April 13th, 2021 at 11:32.

  12. #102
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    Finally received my 6 speed swap parts..woohoo! Been waiting since the week after Thanksgiving...

    Time to get busy...I'll upgrade all linkage parts, etc....box is supposed to be upgraded with all of the best new internal wear parts (shift collar and synchros).






  13. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by lswing View Post
    If Muggy wants to put a list together, I'll add it to the maintenance section on my website. Cheers
    Eagerly awaiting your “been there” stuff-to-do-while-my-engine-is-out list... probable failing driver’s side turbo (way low MAF 2 airflow, credit to @nubcake for his work helping me log!) will likely result in an in-shop engine pull around September... my (past) preferred shop won’t work on it anymore, says Audi officially cut parts support at the end of 2020. And they won’t work unless they can order the OE-specified part. (Sounds more like a dealer than an indy shop!)

  14. #104
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    Muggy, might consider changing out the plastic Slave cylinder for the metal one. The plastic aren't real bad but the B5 S4 guys say they do fail at a higher rate than metal ones.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  15. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by hahnmgh63 View Post
    Muggy, might consider changing out the plastic Slave cylinder for the metal one. The plastic aren't real bad but the B5 S4 guys say they do fail at a higher rate than metal ones.
    Appreciate the tip...the metal slave and line is in that plastic bag by the bell housing that you can't see through....

    AudiPilot, that's a real bummer...I saw your post about that. Before my son and I picked up the RS6, we tinkered extensively with a C5 2.7t 6 speed, so I had some idea of what I was getting into with the RS6 and assumed that an engine pull would be in the future. My slow progress is a combination of lack of time due to a harder work schedule and parts availability & shipping delays...thanks COVID! I agree that nubcake has been a great resource for tuning and diagnostics...at least you have a target in sight for what needs to be dealt with.

    I now have a few boxes full of little baggies with o-rings, crush washers, bolts, etc. that I need to re-cross check so I know where they all go again. For me, I had 3 major "while you are in there" projects, but a smoking turbo forced my hand to stop driving...oil was dripping inside and outside of the turbo causing smoke up through the cowl and out of the pipes. Other issues were the rear main seal that was dripping and an obnoxious tap from the valve train. Hopefully all fixed...the somewhat unexpected addition was the 6 speed swap...the more I thought about it (always on the wish list!), the more it made sense since I felt that some sort of trans service was warranted. Figured that the same $$ was better spent on the swap since it's at my house in my space...not being charged by the hour to work on or by the day to store....

  16. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muggy View Post
    AudiPilot, that's a real bummer...I saw your post about that.
    Thanks, part of ownership at some point or another! I’ll definitely address anything that pops up with the engine out. If I shine a flashlight down the driver’s side to catch a glimpse of the belly pan it is quite reflective, so I’m pretty sure there are fluids coming from other places… hopefully can get everything remedied!

  17. #107
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    Finally got a little time to carve out for myself to work on one of the many projects still to do...something that is satisfying to be finished with as I was nervous about carving up that beautiful carbon fiber!



    With Some JHM upgrades...shifter, linkages, and weighted love handle...


  18. #108
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    A little progress yesterday....dusting off the wrenches and anxious to get back on my project. So much going on this past year, I need to focus on getting this wrapped up. My goal is to have it out of the garage under it's own power in the next month, which is very doable if I just bite the bullet and take some time for myself.

    Installed some JHM goodies to go with the shifter upgrade including the hiem joint linkage, cross rod, stabilizer bushing, and stiffer shift detent to center the shifter to 3rd/4th. The whole assembly feels so much better with the stiffer components and hope that it translates well in the car. I did have an A6 manual car for a bit with 200k that felt like I was stirring pudding with the shifter that gave about 0 feedback...not the case with this setup!

    I do have the metal USP clutch slave and line as well as 034 density line mounts, but trying to decide if I should go with a stiffer motor mount before I put everything back in.

    EDIT...just ordered the billet 034 motor mounts...I don't mind if it's on the stiffer side and want to feel comfortable putting the fun pedal to the floor!





    Last edited by Muggy; July 22nd, 2021 at 12:35.

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