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Thread: Muggy's RS6 Refresh 2020

  1. #109
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    I did the full JHM 01E linkage on mine and I'm glad I did. Still have a little fine tuning on the adjustment but all of the gears are there when I need them. Definitely not much slop which is nice. Congrats on the progress, you're getting close.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  2. #110
    Registered User IchBautAuto's Avatar
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    Good you did the short shifter? Probably the best "feel" mod I have done. I put a UK short shifter in my RS4 and have the JHM short shifter kit for my spare 01E. The spare box has everything JHM offers installed in it plus new mainshaft and bearings.

  3. #111
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    Finally plugging away again...got the tranny attached, metal slave on, new throwout bearing in, and started re-connecting the oil and water feeds for the turbos. Hoping to get the turbos and manifolds on today...I'm really glad that I took lots of pics on the teardown to refer to after being laid up for 15 months! Also love having the motorcycle jack to lift the trans...made aligning and mating the engine and trans a breeze without having to use any bolts to draw together.






  4. #112
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Looks like I may have the same engine hoist and motorcycle jack as you. I did use the motorcycle hoist to lift the transmission but I used a flat hydraulic table/cart (1000lb rated from Harbor freight) to set the engine on. I do have the luxury of a lift so the car was sitting about 3' off the ground and I rolled the assembly underneath and slowly lifted the engine/tranny into place. I have Miltek downpipes and found that the left side was rubbing slightly on the OEM transmission mounts bolted up to the 01E so I used these and they worked perfectly: https://audis4parts.com/audi-b5-s4/s...sion-brackets/
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  5. #113
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    Excellent, I was looking at those mounts myself and thinking of the upgrade while out...the ones that came with mine are a little rough on the bottom that look like they were dragged across the ground.

    I did get more work done today...did the "hard" side first...there certainly isn't much wiggle room in there! Hoping to finish the other side tomorrow night...again, glad that I took lots of pics on teardown and earmarked my sites to re-cross check part numbers on all of the crush washers and o-rings...




  6. #114
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    A bit more work done last night...got second side manifold and turbo installed. I'll definitely need to hit the exhaust shop to move the bung a bit on the driver's side O2 sensor. Hoping to just rotate it a bit to clear the shift linkage. I have a decent custom shop about a half hour away that has done full custom systems on a few of my past toys, so this should be easy for them, especially since they will be on the bench. Plus, the top O2's are locked in solid, so probably need some serious heat our cut out anyway...since the whole thing started from a blown turbo spewing oil down the pipe on the right side, the sensor/s are shot and need replacing anyway.

    Also, very close to bumping the trans mount on that side, already have the steel ones from A4P on the way! Glad to see that Phil was able to ship same day...after months waiting for the trans, I was a bit skeptical, but, thanks Phil!






  7. #115
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    I had the same issues with the Left O2 sensor, had an exhaust shop move it a couple of inches on my Miltek pipe.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  8. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by hahnmgh63 View Post
    I had the same issues with the Left O2 sensor, had an exhaust shop move it a couple of inches on my Miltek pipe.
    Which direction did you go, towards the firewall or front? I'd imagine towards the back, but I don't want any clearance issues with the sensor and the firewall...

    Shifter is in 3rd/4th gear resting position as shown in the pics, so obviously a no go for 5th/6th at this point.

  9. #117
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    I went to the back but also about an inch lower (downstream).
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  10. #118
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    Bear in mind, you want any water (condensation) being able to naturally drain from the sensor.
    So don't install it horizontally or facing upwards.

  11. #119
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    A little more headway this weekend...I mostly tackled the 3rd pedal install...decided to go with the retro-fit in place and swap the pedals, sensors, and clutch master to the existing bracket without pulling the brake master/booster setup. So far, about what I was expecting and not necessarily a pleasant experience, but very do-able. Still need to add the actual clutch pedal to the assembly, but got the brake pedal in with extended pin, switches, and clutch master up. Going with the USP metal slave and upgraded line and was pleasantly surprised that the clutch master that I ordered from Europa was a metal housing unit as well. Not thrilled with the condition of the clutch pedal pivot bushing though...and there doesn't seem to be much info out there about any replacement options...any thoughts?





    Also started on the wiring...got the pin 39 wired up to the ECU for the clutch vacuum switch and am deciding whether to do the jumper bypass on the clutch safety switch or wire that in. Also have a plan with the pigtail supplied for the reverse light. Probably just going to harvest the connector off of a spare auto trans and make my own jumper cable for that. Also re-routed the speed sensor so I didn't need to cut that wire to extend.



    Also picked up the steel mounts from Audis4parts to clear the downpipe on the drivers side...still need to get up to my exhaust shop to move the bung for the 02 a bit. I did check the placement of the OEM bung since I still have the top of the DP's that I cut off to save, and they would foul too on the shift linkage. Should be a quick project for my exhaust guys...they've done plenty of custom stuff for me over the years including a custom dump tube for my Callaway Rabbit, plus hand built header back systems for other cars.



    All-in-all, a good bit of progress for my long weekend off "cough, cough" of about 6 consecutive hours in a row on Sunday without a work or family commitment...

  12. #120
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    Got a little more work done last night...really trying to chip away each day that I don't have any other commitments to get this thing running by the end of the month. My son is getting married in early October, so I want the month of September to get it fine tuned and deal with any issues before his wedding rolls around...not a hard deadline, but a solid "wish" due date.

    In any case, gotta love this view! For anyone that has done this, you can appreciate the sliced knuckles from the razor sharp brackets and aching back to get to this point...the pedal box and wiring were my 2 least favorite mini-projects to deal with, so glad that they are about done. Fortunately, after a lot of research and putting together bits and pieces from various threads, I should be all set on what is really very basic wiring needs...



    Last thing to do in the pedal box is to wire up the 2 switches for the clutch vac and starter relay...I have pin 39 wired, and just need to pull that through, then tidy things up. I also made my own mini harness out of one of my spare auto tranny selector harnesses for the reverse lights. I was willing to buy one from Advanced Automotion, but the 8 pin connector is unavailable right now. I didn't want to splice in wires if I could avoid it, so I harvested the harness and made a proper jumper cable.





    While the interior is out, I decided to pull my cluster out and send to ClusterModzCo for the custom MFD. While the harness is out, I'll wire up to pin 101 for the boost output lead and jump that into the cluster harness. Cheaper and better looking than the pod/vent inserts to get a boost gauge plus so many more functions available...looking forward to seeing this in action!

    Lastly, a little goodie box arrived from Canada...thanks Chase!







    I've been wanting coilovers for quite some time now, and with an end in sight on the engine/trans work, and the pop-up F/S on these, I couldn't pass them up at half the price of new...2Bennet was my preferred choice, so I didn't need to settle on these, it was a no-brainer to scoop them up. They have never been installed, just sitting on the shelf for a few years, but should be perfectly fine to run. Super high quality and pre-fitted with OEM aluminum mounts, custom spherical top mounts on the front, hardware, and all to easily drop and swap without needing to harvest any parts off of the set in the car now. That said, once I get these in, I'll have a nice set of Eibach Sport RS6 specific springs and Bilstein shocks/struts for sale...not a bad setup, just not quite as firm as I prefer and non adjustable.

  13. #121
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    Mini progress...called my exhaust shop when I had a couple hour window at work to leave early on Wednesday...they said to bring my DP up (about 30 minutes from me), had it finished in 10 minutes for $25.00. They are also excited to see the car in person to do some additional possible mods after I'm up and running...they are big VW Audi fans, but work on everything that comes in the door.

    Before:



    After:

  14. #122
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    A little more progress...collecting some final bits and pieces to get this thing finished up! I went ahead and ordered and just received the Accel yellow coils...I had a mis-matched set and never liked the way that the odd one connected as there was never a positive "click" on the harness. Not sure if they'll help or not over quality stock, but we'll see. At least they'll be matched and I have had good results from Accel products the past. Also got some crush washers for the P/S banjos and new o-rings for the A/C system plus new OEM bolts to tie in the drive shaft. Also coming are some universal male/female pin connectors so I can make a nice little OEM looking harness that can be disconnected for the clutch wire, boost wire to the ClusterModz upgrade, and signal wire for the meth at the ECU in case of any future engine pulls.

    Next up which should be in soon...I decided to add meth injection while it's easy to get in there. Final choice after consulting with nubcake was the AEM V3 with a signal input via injector duty cycle. This "should" give a linear spray increase with the injector duty cycle if I understand all correctly and expected to be more precise than the MAP or MAF 0-5v inputs or with an internal MAP sensor tied to a boost line. Now, question is, does anyone have an idea where I need to tie this in for the signal? Can this come from a single injector (since they should all be at the same duty cycle with throttle position and ECU signals), or somewhere off of the main harness that goes into the ECU? Any thoughts?

    First thing to do though is to get the car on the road...I can install the system but have it disabled to start. Nubcake said that we can have 2 programs to select on startup, so I'll just get the car running and deal with all of the 6 speed issues and figuring out what I forgot to connect after 18 months apart, then work on the meth tune.

    Any knowledgeable input on where to tap for an injector duty cycle signal would be appreciated!

    Thanks! ~ Eric

    So, I just did some tracing with the extra butchered up harness that I got from Jolio with some other parts which has been a great help.

    I found that the main power comes from the black with blue tracer that goes to the large orange harness. Also traced down injector for cylinder 2 (easiest since it was a single color wire) is green and goes to pin 19 on the ECU harness (confirmed with Bentley and matching ohm continuity test). Question is, as before, can I just tap into one of these "signal" wires coming from the ECU to any of the injectors for a duty cycle signal for the meth controller? I'm hoping "yes" as this would actually be pretty easy to deal with, but a confirmation from a knowledgeable source would be great, thanks!

    Final edit on this post...looks like I can tie into the signal wire coming from the ECU to an individual injector (not the 12v power lead), and all should be good! Trying to document in case anyone else looks down this path, and as always, educated input is welcomed!
    Last edited by Muggy; August 18th, 2021 at 00:39.

  15. #123
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    Making more progress...finally wrapped up all of the wiring stuff and hope that everything is set here...

    1-Reverse light switch, made a mini harness out of the pigtail that came with the trans selector side and the linkage selector harness that I harvested off of the auto box.
    2-Clutch vacuum switch, connected one side to pin 39 on the ECU and the other to the white wire on the brake light harness.
    3-Clutch safety switch, connected one side to the brown/white wire on the relay #4 and the other to ground, may bypass later, but wanted OEM for now.
    5-AEM WMI trigger, wired to pin 9 green wire on the ECU which is cylinder 2 injector duty cycle trigger to run duty cycle input on WMI.
    5-Color MFA display by ClusterModz, wired pin 101 yellow/red wire on the ECU to pin 39 on the gray harness behind the cluster so I'll have an in-dash boost display. Unfortunately, the cluster harness doesn't have "empty pins" in the cluster like the ECU harness does and even though they look about the same form the outside, they are not. Glad that I picked up Jolio's spare hacked up harness for both bench testing continuity to confirm various circuits before hacking my harness, and I was also able to harvest a pin/pigtail out of one of the connectors for the main harness on the back side of the ECU. Nice solid OEM lock now behind the cluster, which is for the boost option on the MFA display. If anyone is doing the color MFA, let me know and I can get you a pigtail!

    Between the wiring and contorting to get the clutch pedal group in, honestly, I think those were the 2 main mini-projects that I was dreading on the entire build...DONE!






    Also did an easy project and installed the Accel yellow coil packs...I had a mismatched set in there from PO repairs, and never liked how the odd one never "clicked" on the harness to lock it on.




    Next up...getting her back up on the QuickJacks! Since I was already on my roller casters, I was able to squeeze the extra 8" lift blocks in there and now have almost 24" to the door sill....more than enough room to get the drive shaft taken care of, and really made life a LOT easer in my tiny space for the removal...and expect it to be a nice luxury now too for the re-install...








  16. #124
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    Just banging through more stuff today...had a couple of hours here and there...

    Got the driver's side axle shield clearanced for the turbo and removed the auto drive shaft completely now since I have room to work on the QuickJacks!...And surveying the good parts to re-install once it all starts to come together. The driveshaft that came with my trans swap was junk, so I was looking for one and grabbed this off of a seller on Audizine that had it on for a few thousand miles and got fed up with his 2.7t project and parted it out. It's a reman that has the replaceable u-joints and new carrier. I have the 034 carrier too, but will leave this one alone for now.







    All new hardware to install the drive shaft and motor/trans/snub mounts plus new front wheel bearings since I didn't know better early on and dropped the car on the wheels without the driveshafts in....












  17. #125
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    Made some headway today, but had a setback also...

    Got my starter/alt harness wired up to the starter...why the 'f I didn't do this before I put the exhaust manifold on that side was a fail, but eventually got it done...hard to believe what a pain it was to get that nut on and tightened properly on the starter lug....



    Moving on...I was a little skeptical on the welded tranny mounts that I got from audis4parts...was hoping that they would be exactly what I needed to clear the downpipe on the drivers side, which it does perfectly...bummer is that I hope that this was just a bad one as it wasn't even close to lining up when I dropped the motor in the car. I was a little concerned when I put them on, as the motor didn't seem to sit as square on my 4 jack stands while out, but I really had no way to easily check. Long story short, I'll let the pics speak for themselves.

    Oh yeah, since I was not 100% sure on these, I decided to do a test fit of the motor with all the new mounts to make sure that all was cool before I hook up the downpipes and other stuff along with all of the new 034 mounts...glad that I did!!





    Passenger side trans bracket and 034 tip mount...



    Driver side trans bracket and 034 tip mount...



    Now with the OEM trans brackets in place with the same 034 mounts...





    So, I guess I'll call Phil to see if he has any insight on this...they shipped same day last time, so hopefully he has a few sets and this was just a fluke...if not, I guess I'll be modding the OEM mount to clear the drivers side DP...
    Last edited by Muggy; August 30th, 2021 at 10:02.

  18. #126
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    They were a perfect fit on my car so something must be up. You'd think they weld them up in some type of fixture to make it easy and all the same? Is it just me or do those mounts (Poly?) seem a little high?
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

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