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Thread: DRC suspension upgrade for 2020

  1. #1
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    DRC suspension upgrade for 2020

    There are quite a few threads addressing suspension upgrades... many started 10+ years ago, as folks were first discovering the sub-optimal longevity of DRC. My DRC made it to 117,000 miles (with rear shocks replaced under warranty at around 40k), but I think it's time to say goodbye -- three of 4 shocks are leaking, reservoirs/lines are badly rusted/corroded... it's only a matter of time. Part of me will die a little bit in swapping to aftermarket -- I love the idea of everything being OE... just not at the price for new DRC (and with no assurance of long-term integrity).

    I'd be grateful for advice -- from reading it seems to be either Koni Yellows or KW V3... probably with Hotchkis sway bars as long as we're under there? But again, lots of the advice is close to a decade old. What is often most beneficial is when someone describes their setup and how they like it (not just "V3's are what you want") -- there's a wealth of knowledge in the long-term owners/experts here. I've learned a lot about the car in 8 months of ownership (lots of it here), but I don't do major repairs myself (just littler things like N85 canister, RNS-E upgrade, trim stuff, etc.). So when I read things like "Koni's with stock springs," I understand what that means in theory, but not why that's a good choice. If you care to describe your settings, even better -- I'm going for the OE ride height/look/feel.

    Here's how I drive it:

    - I'm the guy @nene spoke of in his post on 16 Jun on the Del Stator thread... "Get the RS6 well sorted and enjoy it daily, and slam the gas pedal on occasion on some on-ramps or empty highway cruisin'."
    - Daily highway driver (e.g., 4k miles between Nov 2019 and Mar 2020 before working from home)
    - Moving it to CA in August, will commute ~25 miles/~30 min highway each way daily (shipping the car though, not driving it out there from VA)
    - I don't track the car -- it has a Stage 1 EPL tune, everything else is OE (wheels, etc.)
    - I love the way the car stays level on an un-banked highway ramp, but I wouldn't mind a slightly softer ride... just not bouncy or unresponsive obviously (I get it, trade-offs)
    - Looking for as close to OE ride height/look/feel as possible

    Look forward to hearing whatever feedback you have, planning to make a decision over the weekend and move forward with a gameplan on Monday.

  2. #2
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    I replaced my DRC - probably about 5 years or so ago and went with the Koni FSD inserts, and replaced all the rubber components and bushings, etc while in there. I did the work myself - it was a considerable job, especially not having access to a hoist. I looked into a complete coil over replacement (from all the available options). I did not want to lower the ride height and really did not want to stiffen up the ride and also really did not want to spend $2K+. I drive the car daily (no tracking). I have been very pleased with the decision. If you do research you will probably see that the Koni's will not be a fit for the RS6, but will for the A6 - 4.2 with sport suspension. It's because the RS6 has the DRC system, and obviously any aftermarket insert will not connect to the DRC's pressurized set-up. Everything went together fine - definitely will need coil compressors and air impact tool, torque tool etc. - the rears were much more difficult to remove than the fronts. I believe I picked up the Koni's for around $750 and then another $200 or so for the other OEM components.

    Good Luck

  3. #3
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    I can bring the car by one day in the next few weeks for you to drive and see how you like the KW V3 + Hotchkis setup. I will be down in the Chesapeake area so it wont be out of the way by to much..
    2003 Avus RS6 | 10SECS4 Tune | GIAC TCU | Apikol Intake | Apikol Intercoolers | Miltek & Catless | KW V3 | Hotckis Sway bars | 034 Control arms & end links | Euro RS6 Recaro seats | RS6+ pedals

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevcp View Post
    I can bring the car by one day in the next few weeks for you to drive and see how you like the KW V3 + Hotchkis setup. I will be down in the Chesapeake area so it wont be out of the way by to much..
    Wow, that would be awesome and incredibly generous... will send you a PM.

  5. #5
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    Shoot me a text @ Five four zero 216 six 7 six 9
    2003 Avus RS6 | 10SECS4 Tune | GIAC TCU | Apikol Intake | Apikol Intercoolers | Miltek & Catless | KW V3 | Hotckis Sway bars | 034 Control arms & end links | Euro RS6 Recaro seats | RS6+ pedals

  6. #6
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    I replaced the DRC after the 2nd failure and really have not looked back. The stock system is great if it worked for a long period of time, but just does not seem to. Different folks get better mileage out of them, but even after the 2nd replacement it did not ride like it did from factory. Honestly the system has to be serviced by someone who really knows and cares and that is just hard to find around here, especially at the dealership.

    As much pain as I felt by moving away from OE parts, and KW v3s are a bit harsher on the ride, I figured once I made the choice of 19" wheels and lower profile tires I was in all the way.
    Other options were available but also had some issues that required too much working around or high maintenance. So far the KW v3s have serviced me well. Other than adjust slightly the ride height after they settled, nothing else.

    Good luck with your choice.

  7. #7
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    Thanks to all for the helpful descriptions. At the risk of highlighting my naïveté, what are you getting for >$2k in V3 parts that Koni offers at under $1k? Is there a perceived/actual quality/performance/longevity difference? I’m sure the rides are a bit different, but materially speaking...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by AudiPilot View Post
    Thanks to all for the helpful descriptions. At the risk of highlighting my naïveté, what are you getting for >$2k in V3 parts that Koni offers at under $1k? Is there a perceived/actual quality/performance/longevity difference? I’m sure the rides are a bit different, but materially speaking...
    Ok so answering my own question, I get that at least part of it is re-using OE springs with Koni, and the V3 comes with the full spring kit... Anything else? Are new springs just that expensive?

  9. #9
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    I think one of the main difference is that V3 provides you the ability to change the ride height and a few other tweaks on rebound and sportiness adjustment. But honestly I don't think you can go wrong with either option of V3 coil overs or Koni shocks with OE springs.
    From experience I think any setup that is a full coil over happens to have a sportier/harsher ride, even if you put it on a softest setting.

  10. #10
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    KW V3's are legendary and have been for decades. They are one of the top of the line coilover packages, with dampening rates specific to the vehicle they are designed for, progressive spring rates, and independently adjustable compression and rebound (VERY nice for fine-tuning, if you care about really dialing in the suspension.). I installed mine a year ago, and am very happy. It's a coilover that can be adjusted for weekend track days or comfortable highway cruising. They will allow you to drop the car substantially (my car is tucking the front and rear tires, with about a one finger gap F & R), while still maintaining good softness, and staying within the designed range of the dampers.

    I have run a lot of modified suspensions over the years: Bilstein sport shocks, Koni adjustables, HOR springs (waaay back in the day), Eibach springs, Bilstein PSS9's, Eibach coilovers, BC racing coilovers, but these were my first KW's. I think they are absolutely on par with the best of the best as far as performance and adjustability, within the range of the $1-3k coilover packages. I've never ridden on something with Stasis, or Ohlins, or the like, so I don't have a good comparison once you get into the remote reservoir level of suspension.

    TL;DR: More adjustable shocks than a Koni, with ride height adjustment, and better springs than stock. If you don't care about ride height adjustment, I love Bilstein sports, and think they are one of the best shocks money can buy.

  11. #11
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    I’m going to be the stodgy old guy who sticks with OEM at least one more time. Mine were done in 07 and have just developed a little dampness on the right front. Found a full set new from Audi for just under 2k. If this set lasts as long as the first I’ll be happy.

    Maybe some of the veterans here know the answer to this. How many failures were do to poor installation procedures. I can see someone over pressurizing and blowing out seals real easy.

    The guys who who have been servicing by car as of late seem very conscientious about their work and go by the book. What I’m worried about is if there is a book for them to follow with all the various steps to be followed.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by DKP View Post
    I’m going to be the stodgy old guy who sticks with OEM at least one more time. Found a full set new from Audi for just under 2k.
    I appreciate your staunch support of OE! Am I correct that the “set” you found is four shocks, but not new lines/reservoirs? Those appear to be $3k just for new reservoirs/lines, before you even get to the shocks.

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    Yes that was just shocks. And now you have me thinking about the other bits and pieces. I was working on the assumption that the rest is still sound. Car has resided in Colorado and Florida. Always garage kept. Zero corrosion, no winters etc. 80k on the clock. Garage queen for the most part. But I may start shopping around for those items. Just on the basic principles of hoarding for the future. Anyone have those part numbers written down anywhere?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by DKP View Post
    Anyone have those part numbers written down anywhere?
    According to Jim Ellis parts it’s 4B3616807A and 4B3616808A, each is called “Cental valve with lines.” My car was an Illinois/Ohio resident, and this I cannot say the same for corrosion/winters. Shop says the reservoirs are so rusted they’re not sure they can simply un-bolt DRC components to uninstall them.

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the numbers. Yikes that doesn’t sound good on the corrosion front. Damn mag chloride. Hate that crap. Do you know Does lines mean the ones at each corner or lines to each corner?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by DKP View Post
    Do you know Does lines mean the ones at each corner or lines to each corner?
    I do not, sorry. I’d need someone with more parts savvy to assess what’s needed to actually replace an entire system.

  17. #17
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    Yea I maybe should have thought through all the possible failure points before I bought all 4 shocks. Could turn into way more work and money then I had in my head. Especially since I’ve looked at the new A6 Allroad. Me like. Then you do that mental money tally in your head and think with what I’ve spent on my RS I could have almost bought the new Allroad. Silly humans.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by JettaGLi16v View Post
    If you don't care about ride height adjustment, I love Bilstein sports, and think they are one of the best shocks money can buy.
    It’s looking like I’ll go with Bilstein B6 Performance simply due to availability — Koni’s are backordered 3-4 weeks. You are correct I do not care about ride height adjustment… Do you have any comments on the ride quality itself (stiffness, etc.)?

    Also planning on Hotchkis sways to keep things better linked together.

    All the feedback has been invaluable, and I’m very appreciative.

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