Battery Icon, “FUSE” over odometer, bolts needle at zero

[nubcake]

Classic case of misunderstanding/miscommunication.
The original question was about unplugging the cluster and plugging it back in. There was no mention of "trying to start the car with mismatched cluster" between those two.

You likely have an error stored in ECU's EEPROM now. Which is a bitch to write to.
One of the solutions is to re-flash with "immo off" flash file, then get this sorted later.
Another option is adapting the used cluster with VCDS. Need to dig out PIN codes from both new and old one.

EDIT:
Actually.
I have never seen a mismatched cluster trigger an ECU EEPROM error.
Can try having the original cluster in the car, then disconnecting the battery for a couple of mins, then connecting it back. Should clear all faults and allow the car to start.
YMMV, though. The fact that I haven't seen that, doesn't mean that such a thing doesn't exist. Didn't mess much with immo.

[Aronis]

Classic case of misunderstanding/miscommunication.
The original question was about unplugging the cluster and plugging it back in. There was no mention of "trying to start the car with mismatched cluster" between those two.

You likely have an error stored in ECU's EEPROM now. Which is a bitch to write to.
One of the solutions is to re-flash with "immo off" flash file, then get this sorted later.
Another option is adapting the used cluster with VCDS. Need to dig out PIN codes from both new and old one.

EDIT:
Actually.
I have never seen a mismatched cluster trigger an ECU EEPROM error.
Can try having the original cluster in the car, then disconnecting the battery for a couple of mins, then connecting it back. Should clear all faults and allow the car to start.
YMMV, though. The fact that I haven't seen that, doesn't mean that such a thing doesn't exist. Didn't mess much with immo.

Thank you....

I reset all the DTC's with VAG Com and the car is running again with the original instrument cluster back in.

So....next.......


I have to figure out where the other short is. I don't think that a mismatched instrument cluster would stop the interior lights from working.

When I put my ohm meter on the wire going out to the interior lights I got a short to ground. This is not right, there should be some resistance noted due to the light bulbs (all in parallel of course) but not a short to ground. Am I correct on that?

I don't dare get the new cluster coded and just have the fault show again after a few weeks. Remember, the dimming thing started with intermittent function then the battery was dead, replaced the battery, car ran fine, later the interior lights stopped working completely, and then a bit later I got that blown fuse 15.. So I cannot ignore that. Should be fun to check every wire going to every light.

Mike