Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 19 to 34 of 34

Thread: Loud tapping noise from engine

  1. #19
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Binghamton Area, NY
    Posts
    3,739
    Are you able to by the BND oil and DIY? I thought they only sold through certified shops?

    Mike
    '18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
    (prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,

  2. #20
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Boston, USA
    Posts
    2,391
    I got a call back late today from BND but was away. I'll order some and get the filter too, and DIY later. For now I just want to get at the very least something better/correct into the engine bay.

  3. #21
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Binghamton Area, NY
    Posts
    3,739
    please post contact info to call BND to order products. thank you.

    Mike
    '18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
    (prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,

  4. #22
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Out there
    Posts
    7,780
    http://bndautomotive.com/contact/

    Just give Brian a call.

    He is a one man show so at times need to be patient. I order my supplies in advance and always have the next round of service sitting on the shelf.

    I could always tell the oil and fuel additives were making the engines run smooth. But that Blackstone oil report at 10000 miles made me a customer for life. Even Blackstone used the word perfect and they don't use that term. 10000 miles of boosted and tuned RS6 thru hot AZ summer driving. Amazing

  5. #23
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Boston, USA
    Posts
    2,391
    Chatted a bit with Brian and great knowledgeable fellow and wonderful customer service. Got the oil, steering fluid and some Aces IV for the gas tank. Happy camper. So glad we still have folks like Brian around that help us keep these engines going. Good thing DHall1 found them out and shared with us.

  6. #24
    Registered User G2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Eugene, OR
    Posts
    695
    Agree the noise is a lifter. Sitting for weeks at a time can/will cause the symptom. Especially with somewhat dirty oil as shown. Dirty oil has debris and becomes thicker- things that lifters don't like.

    In general if the noise does not start to diminish in 10-15 secs, it's better to shut the engine down. Let it sit for a bit and retry. Residual oil pressure may also help pump up the depressed lifter(s) if in the uncompressed position. Most engines will stop in the same position however. Not sure on the BCY.

    Unfortunately we don't have an oil pressure gauge aside from the dummy light.

    OIL:

    Due to various and severe problems with Castrol, I/we do not use it anymore. Castrol is OE fill to VAG and BMW- I always see oil issues with these cars. After the Gulf spill stopped using all Castrol products. Bastards.

    Have serviced a number of RS6's using BND, Motul, LiquiMoly, Pentosin, and Amsoil. I used Redline up to the late 90s' before going with Amsoil (Amsoil was available, and Redline was not, no other brands appealed, so tried it). It's visibly and audibly apparent not all oil is created equal, even just looking at it while gushing out. Have seen UOA's on some. OE spec oil does the engine no service as it's out of warranty. In short the oil is designed to protect the emission system first then the engine. Federal regs mandate an extended emission warranty, but nothing in regards to the engine itself- aside from the VAG warranty. THANKFULLY the secondary oil cooler keeps viscosity from thinning out too much and preserving whatever lowly shear spec the OE lubes can muster. I see very little bearing material come out in the oil, unlike nearly all other modern cars using spec oil. Have changed many a car over to a better spec and better oil besides RS6's. Always helps.

    I use 502/505, which ironically is cheaper even though it's a better oil via the extra (relatively speaking) SAPS additives.

    This shows both OE spec and Non:
    http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ne/?filters=78

    Noisy startup:
    I've noticed every car is a bit different. There are check valves in the head and oil pump to prevent oil back flow. It's apparent not all work so well at this age. After changing to the Amsoil oil filter noticed the engine quiet down much faster. It uses full synthetic media and is designed for extended drain intervals. P/N EA034. I have spoken with Amsoil engineers and the delta pressure is correct for this engine. (years ago had become concerned because they switched P/N's). Old oil, old oil filters cause more noise. Noise = damage.

    Oil additives:
    If they are needed then the oil is not adequate. Amsoil is adamant about not adding anything to their oil. It can alter the chemistry or cause other imbalances. "back in the day" I would also use products such as Marvel Mystery oil to my Ford LTD (351 Windsor), or snake oil like Slick 50. It seemed to work... Modern oil is far more sophisticated. The downside is older cars may need an additive due to the low SAPS ratings of any modern API SN/SM spec oil. Use period correct oil if possible (pre early 90's). Excluding that would consider additives (there are many niche oils available now). Usually diesel 15-40 or 20-50 has the best protection and additives for a readily available over the counter solution. There is also Amsoil 20-50 Z-Rod (domestic muscle car spec). Not exactly ideal for a 40 valve hydraulic head with turbos like ours of course- at least in winter.

    Interval:
    Oil change interval is a big factor for any car with hydraulic lifters. When they get noisy, it needs fresh oil. For normal combined driving, have noticed 3,500-5,000 miles is a good balance. Going past is not worth the risk (for me). Overall, conditions are key: climate, short drives, track days, road trips). Based on UOA's the PH becomes too acidic with most low TBN rated oil (nearly all modern OE spec oil, BND included). The Amsoil 5-40 Euro Classic is 10 TBN, very high by today's standards (max I've seen is 12-13). It helps prevent the extreme low PH which simply destroys seals, causes oil leaks, and attacks engine bearings. Not so great! Their diesel oil and other car grades like 10-40 SS are also viable (especially the 10-40). Diesel oil has a very high cP rating (HTHS=high temp high shear) to handle extreme torque loading in the cylinder (rings to wall). For example my 450hp diesel requires a cP of 3.7 and a 40wt grade (50wt at high temps). The Amsoil 15-40 and 20-50 is much higher and still beats the single 40 and 50 weight specs by some margin. It's a $40K engine, so oil is key. UOA is key as it's $400+ to change my own oil at my cost.

    For those that don't drive much, change the oil every year. Do it prior to winter storage so there is clean oil as it sits. Never let old oil sit for prolong periods of time w/o use. When in doubt, change it.

    Operation:
    If the engine is turned on it should be driven for at least 20 minutes. Idling does not suffice; more harm than good. Moisture buildup occurs that will cause internal rusting. Modern oils are maxed out and cannot cope with anything other than typical operation (for awhile). If there is consistent loud rattling noises on startup, change your strategy and oil. The rattling is essentially "slapping". Expect damage in it's many forms. Example may be broken chain guides (there's one on the oil pump also) and/or excessive metal particulate contamination.

    Our BCY engines are precious. Most of us push them hard and/or have them tuned. The amount of increased torque puts large shear stress on the oil (reducing viscosity= metal to metal contact). There is more blow by, more carbon and combustion byproducts getting into the oil, including gasoline. And if not tuned, it's an old engine that needs/deserves extra care. FWIW, a large portion of oil particulate debris contamination is via the air intake. Keep those filters clean. Every RS6 I've serviced had debris in the intake manifold, some with serious size pebbles (thank you VAG for the top feed plennum runner design). Don't ask me how they made it thru the turbo system to that point or what went further ....egads.

    Oil is a hot topic for everyone. Truth is we just don't know much. I continue welcome ANY tech data on the oils people use here. Don't claim that Amsoil is the best, but I know it works and trust it. They are one of the few to publish tech specs done to established standards (ASTM/ISO/SAE, etc). I have worked on thousands of cars over the years of nearly all types. Seen both good and bad and the ugly. All but a few had problems that proper oil and care could not have fixed. It's truly all about the oil.

    No rant intended but just a few things I know from experience that may help those that haven't dedicated their profession and personal passions towards these fickle things we call Cars. And the RS6.
    Cheers, G2/Gary
    C5-RS6/KWV3/Revo/H20 Inj./Custom BBK/Custom cooling/CNC arms \ VW Touareg V10 \ B7A4 2.0T Avant \ Mk1 Callaway Scirocco \ audirs6parts@gmail.com / www.oilpro.myamsoil.com

  7. #25
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Binghamton Area, NY
    Posts
    3,739
    G2,

    Very nice...

    My head hurts, but excellent knowledge passed on.

    Thank you very much,

    Mike
    '18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
    (prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,

  8. #26
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Out there
    Posts
    7,780
    Gary

    always good info. You must be typing on a keyboard because I could not put so much info on this phone poking away. Lol

    the BND oil has a high tbn as well. As noted on my prev post, when my Daytona was the daily driver I ran up to 10k on my BND oil and Blackstone was amazed. The results were posted in the thread including the report.

  9. #27
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    441
    While we're on the subject replace your diff fluids with Brians as well (tacky). And if you're feeling frisky do the trans too, OEM fluid was meant for an A4 not an RS6
    BB GT28's w/ Tial Wastegates, Full 3" Open Exhaust, Wagners, Billet Triple Disk Converter, Built Trans, Exedy Friction Disks, ECU/TCU Tuned, 450/AEM400/1000cc/AFPR, E85, R8 Coils, Nubcake Tuned. Fastest RS6 in the USA :)

  10. #28
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Boston, USA
    Posts
    2,391
    Finally a member of the BND family. Brian was great to deal with and will continue to be a happy customer.


  11. #29
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Out there
    Posts
    7,780
    Ahhh, the liquid gold.

    Your RS6 will be very happy

  12. #30
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Binghamton Area, NY
    Posts
    3,739
    Nene,

    Nice counter tops! I am guessing that is the counter top in your garage? LOL.


    Mike
    '18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
    (prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,

  13. #31
    Registered User G2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Eugene, OR
    Posts
    695
    Quote Originally Posted by DHall1 View Post
    Gary

    always good info. You must be typing on a keyboard because I could not put so much info on this phone poking away. Lol

    the BND oil has a high tbn as well. As noted on my prev post, when my Daytona was the daily driver I ran up to 10k on my BND oil and Blackstone was amazed. The results were posted in the thread including the report.
    I try to hold back, but those fingers get going at times. Guess that high school typing class has earned it's keep over the years, ha.

    I'd still like to know more about BND oil; specs mainly. I just see how it looks coming out of RS6's, and a couple UOA reports that were of concern. Easily offset by lower mileage, I'm sure. Ultimately it boils down to UOA's and a person' comfort level. I may have seen yours before.

    With the new brake kit and 1700 spirited miles on some "flush out" LiquiMoly 5-40, felt it was time to get back to home base. Oil was moderately dark. May do a UOA for fun.

    Just poured in 9 qts of 5-50 Amsoil SS (12.6 TBN) and their synthetic media oil filter. Nice quiet startups.
    Cheers, G2/Gary
    C5-RS6/KWV3/Revo/H20 Inj./Custom BBK/Custom cooling/CNC arms \ VW Touareg V10 \ B7A4 2.0T Avant \ Mk1 Callaway Scirocco \ audirs6parts@gmail.com / www.oilpro.myamsoil.com

  14. #32
    Registered User G2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Eugene, OR
    Posts
    695
    Aronis, I've heard that before....the pain part. Glad to oblige!

  15. #33
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Out there
    Posts
    7,780

  16. #34
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    pierce county, wa
    Posts
    197
    I have been using on all my cars (04 VW R32, 05 B6 S4 and now 03 RS6) the same oil and is within factory specs, which is Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic 5w-40 Motor oil.

    It meets or exceeds the requirements of: API Service SM, CF, ACEA A3/B3-04, A3/B4-04, BMW Longlife-04 Oil, Mercedes-Benz Sheet 229.51, Porsche A40 (excludes Cayenne V6 for extended drain and Cayenne diesel), and VW 505.01, 505.00, 502.00.

    I have been pleased with it on the other 2 cars but do you guys recommend something else?

    I am glad the noise went away for you, hopefully is no longer an issue, keep us updated if it comes back.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •