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Thread: 01E Conversion questions

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  1. #1
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    01E Conversion questions

    I'm on the downhill side of this project, and I've got several questions, so I thought I'd create a thread for them. I apologize if some of these have been answered already, I've been looking through all the various conversion threads, and there are a few things I still need help with.

    First: the rear O2 sensor on the drivers side is basically touching the side of the transmission:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I was thinking of using one of those angle spacers like this:

    https://www.amazon.com/Degree-Angled.../dp/B00B1U6I54

    Any feedback appreciated.

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    Second question: the axle shield on the drivers side does not seem to fit. It hits the bottom of the turbo before it lines up.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    How have you 6-speed folks dealt with this?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreggPDX View Post
    Second question: the axle shield on the drivers side does not seem to fit. It hits the bottom of the turbo before it lines up.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    How have you 6-speed folks dealt with this?
    I think everyone ends up cutting the axle shield for clearance like shown in the following picture.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

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    Quote Originally Posted by bethridg View Post
    I think everyone ends up cutting the axle shield for clearance like shown in the following picture.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I did this exact same thing but added two layers of DEI heat tape to the top and bottom of the opening.

    No other shield fits and the cast aluminum does not give at all and will crack and break.
    2010 GTI - 2004 Silver S4 Avant 6MT w/ 2.7T conversion
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line
    1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 Super Sport -> cafe racer project on the mothballs

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreggPDX View Post
    I'm on the downhill side of this project, and I've got several questions, so I thought I'd create a thread for them. I apologize if some of these have been answered already, I've been looking through all the various conversion threads, and there are a few things I still need help with.

    First: the rear O2 sensor on the drivers side is basically touching the side of the transmission:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Drivers_O2.jpg 
Views:	96 
Size:	31.8 KB 
ID:	17985

    I was thinking of using one of those angle spacers like this:

    https://www.amazon.com/Degree-Angled.../dp/B00B1U6I54

    Any feedback appreciated.
    Upon further research, I think I will try these spacers:

    https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-11619...cm_wl_huc_item

    and I might as well go ahead and gut my pre-cats for good measure.

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    I wouldn't really cut the shield, because it defeats the whole its purpose. I think it's possible to either use some kind of spacer under central mounting "arm" (and thus angle it a bit more down) or just re-use one of the auto ones. I don't recall what exactly I did, unfortunately.

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    Auto shield wouldn't bolt up in my experience. I'm sure there is a more elegant solution. Maybe fab up a spacer as you described. I tried heating up and hammering a recess but it pretty much just boiled whatever they cast that part out of.
    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

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    OK, tonight's project is the clutch master cylinder. Service manual says I need to loosen the two bolts holding the brake master cylinder, which allows the pedal bracket to move back enough to fit the rubber grommet for the clutch master behind the bracket.

    Those two bolts look to be pretty hard to access, and it looks like the clutch master is really close to fitting without move the pedal bracket. How did you all do this install? Any tricks?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bethridg View Post
    Auto shield wouldn't bolt up in my experience. I'm sure there is a more elegant solution. Maybe fab up a spacer as you described. I tried heating up and hammering a recess but it pretty much just boiled whatever they cast that part out of.
    Maybe it would be possible to notch it like you did, then rivet a piece of aluminum sheet to the underside of the shield to cover the hole?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreggPDX View Post
    OK, tonight's project is the clutch master cylinder. Service manual says I need to loosen the two bolts holding the brake master cylinder, which allows the pedal bracket to move back enough to fit the rubber grommet for the clutch master behind the bracket.

    Those two bolts look to be pretty hard to access, and it looks like the clutch master is really close to fitting without move the pedal bracket. How did you all do this install? Any tricks?
    I didn't touch the brake master cylinder/booster. If I recall correctly the clutch master just slipped in.

    Quote Originally Posted by GreggPDX View Post
    Maybe it would be possible to notch it like you did, then rivet a piece of aluminum sheet to the underside of the shield to cover the hole?
    I don't know how much effort you want to put into it. I'm rolling up on 10k miles since the swap without any issues.
    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

  12. #12
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    I reviewed the service manual instructions again, and they definitely say you should loosen the pedal bracket enough to fit the master cylinder grommet and metal shim behind it. The idea is that the bracket will then pinch the shim/grommet against the firewall for a tight seal. That said, it also looks like you should be able to just push the grommet up and under the bracket while it's installed and not go through the hassle of loosening the bracket. That's my plan

  13. #13
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    I definitely did loosen the bracket. In fact, I pulled it all the way out. It's not entirely necessary, but I didn't enjoy lying on my back arched over the driver door sill working under the dash, plus it made routing the various added wires much easier. I found out on round two that removing the driver seat makes the under-dash work infinitely easier, and it only requires removing two bolts and 5 electrical connectors.
    RS6 #1, 01E, 2.5" straight pipes, AMD Stage 1 6MT tune, 460awhp/530awtq on AMD's Mustang dyno. TOTALLED.. RS6 #2, Ebony Black Pearl on black/silver combination with carbon, up and running with 6 gears and AMD tune.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GreggPDX View Post
    I'm on the downhill side of this project, and I've got several questions, so I thought I'd create a thread for them. I apologize if some of these have been answered already, I've been looking through all the various conversion threads, and there are a few things I still need help with.

    First: the rear O2 sensor on the drivers side is basically touching the side of the transmission:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Drivers_O2.jpg 
Views:	96 
Size:	31.8 KB 
ID:	17985

    I was thinking of using one of those angle spacers like this:

    https://www.amazon.com/Degree-Angled.../dp/B00B1U6I54

    Any feedback appreciated.
    If you angle the downpipe a bit before you tighten it to the turbo you can gain a little space. Once you have the full exhaust on it will pull it away a bit further too I think. I've put a cut piece of rubber hose around the sensor body to add some abrasion resistance, too.

    A legit tuner will eliminate any codes if the sensor ends up damaged because of this.
    2010 GTI - 2004 Silver S4 Avant 6MT w/ 2.7T conversion
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line
    1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 Super Sport -> cafe racer project on the mothballs

  15. #15
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    For the heat shield I believe I simply added a couple washers to the top bolt to tilt it down. Worked fine.

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