Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 19 to 36 of 37

Thread: RS6 won't start.. Where is the main fuse?

  1. #19
    Registered User spoolinrs6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Clifton, NJ
    Posts
    92
    It was on the driver side next to the computer I changed the fuse still nothing and the battery has good power. It's like the car is fried no power whatsoever

  2. #20
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, again...
    Posts
    4,709
    Quote Originally Posted by spoolinrs6 View Post
    It was on the driver side next to the computer I changed the fuse still nothing and the battery has good power. It's like the car is fried no power whatsoever
    Odd, wonder if you have a Canadian car? That big fuse is certainly on the passenger side as we've mentioned, US cars at least. Guess you could start testing around with a volt-meter, hope it's not something like the ECU fried.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  3. #21
    Registered User spoolinrs6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Clifton, NJ
    Posts
    92
    I doubt it's Canadian and I already tried with the meter. Your right maybe the ecu is fried. Do you have another social network or number? I'll send you a pic of it for some reason I can't post anything on here from my phone or computer

  4. #22
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA area
    Posts
    1,236
    Did you ever fix this.

    The RS6 has two main fuses. One supplies the starting and charging ans the other supplies everything else.

    It's highly unlikely that you've blown both of them. I thin the charging/starting one is 200A and the other one is 150A.

    You say that you used a DVM and checked your battery, correct?

    As ttboost said, above the washer fluid reservoir is where there's a little panel that can be removed. This is where the battery positive is, which then supplies the main fuses. Put the DVM probe on this and touch any ground to see if the battery power is making it up to the front of the car.

    It's really strange that you've got nothing, as if there's no battery at all. I'm thinking that maybe your ground strap in the trunk is disconnected or broken? Maybe add a jumper cable from the negative terminal to another good ground?
    2010 GTI - 2004 Silver S4 Avant 6MT -> 2.7T project
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line
    1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 Super Sport -> cafe racer project on the mothballs

  5. #23
    Registered User spoolinrs6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Clifton, NJ
    Posts
    92
    Quote Originally Posted by SteveKen View Post
    Did you ever fix this.

    The RS6 has two main fuses. One supplies the starting and charging ans the other supplies everything else.

    It's highly unlikely that you've blown both of them. I thin the charging/starting one is 200A and the other one is 150A.

    You say that you used a DVM and checked your battery, correct?

    As ttboost said, above the washer fluid reservoir is where there's a little panel that can be removed. This is where the battery positive is, which then supplies the main fuses. Put the DVM probe on this and touch any ground to see if the battery power is making it up to the front of the car.

    It's really strange that you've got nothing, as if there's no battery at all. I'm thinking that maybe your ground strap in the trunk is disconnected or broken? Maybe add a jumper cable from the negative terminal to another good ground?
    hey sorry for the late reply but i found the fuse and it was corroded badly fixed it up and the car is running like new again!

  6. #24
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Roy, WA
    Posts
    3,127
    Was it one of the main fuses on the passenger (right) side by the Pollen filter?
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  7. #25
    Registered User spoolinrs6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Clifton, NJ
    Posts
    92
    Yes it was. It was like a long line of metal then a big ass corroded fuse like nobody ever changed it. If you go on my IG I have a video of the car recently. @spoolin_rs6

  8. #26
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, again...
    Posts
    4,709
    Quote Originally Posted by spoolinrs6 View Post
    hey sorry for the late reply but i found the fuse and it was corroded badly fixed it up and the car is running like new again!
    Nice! Hope you cleared out the drain plug right there, I think that's why mine got corroded, water buildup.

    I'll take my chicken dinner fried please...
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  9. #27
    Registered User RS Sick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    90
    Mine are next to the ECU under the plastic box. When removing my alternator I didn't disconnect battery and saw some spark action when removing the 13mm nut. After putting it all back together, it'll crank but won't turn over. Pretty sure I blew the charging/starting fuse, all the smaller fuses in drivers side door are fine. Battery was on charger overnight, kaestner rebuild has new brushes, bearings and VR.

    Anyone know which is the starting fuse?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	55 
Size:	76.9 KB 
ID:	17588
    Daytona Grey/ Ebony/Carbon | APR ECU/TCU | Wagner intercoolers, silicone hoses | Clampco T-bolts | APR axel back exhaust | Apikol MAF seal | 18x9.5 STR 609s | 265/35 Michelin PSS | Hotchkis sway bars |

  10. #28
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, again...
    Posts
    4,709
    Quote Originally Posted by RS Sick View Post
    Mine are next to the ECU under the plastic box. When removing my alternator I didn't disconnect battery and saw some spark action when removing the 13mm nut. After putting it all back together, it'll crank but won't turn over. Pretty sure I blew the charging/starting fuse, all the smaller fuses in drivers side door are fine. Battery was on charger overnight, kaestner rebuild has new brushes, bearings and VR.

    Anyone know which is the starting fuse?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	55 
Size:	76.9 KB 
ID:	17588
    You look at huge "main"? fuse under the cowl, passenger side.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  11. #29
    Registered User RS Sick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    90
    I must be missing something, here's the passenger side.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	63 
Size:	91.0 KB 
ID:	17589
    Daytona Grey/ Ebony/Carbon | APR ECU/TCU | Wagner intercoolers, silicone hoses | Clampco T-bolts | APR axel back exhaust | Apikol MAF seal | 18x9.5 STR 609s | 265/35 Michelin PSS | Hotchkis sway bars |

  12. #30
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, again...
    Posts
    4,709
    Quote Originally Posted by RS Sick View Post
    I must be missing something, here's the passenger side.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	63 
Size:	91.0 KB 
ID:	17589
    ...it's deep down...by the Pollen filter.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  13. #31
    Registered User RS Sick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    90
    Is the pollen filter different than the cabin filter? If not is it just under the paper filter that's visible in the pic?
    Daytona Grey/ Ebony/Carbon | APR ECU/TCU | Wagner intercoolers, silicone hoses | Clampco T-bolts | APR axel back exhaust | Apikol MAF seal | 18x9.5 STR 609s | 265/35 Michelin PSS | Hotchkis sway bars |

  14. #32
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Evil Empire
    Posts
    410
    Quote Originally Posted by RS Sick View Post
    Is the pollen filter different than the cabin filter? If not is it just under the paper filter that's visible in the pic?
    It's hiding to the right of that filter actually. Trace those thick wires running there. Might have to undo expansion tank screws and lift it out of the way.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	80 
Size:	129.2 KB 
ID:	17590

  15. #33
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Park City, UT
    Posts
    1,104
    Thanks for the thread. My car has had several instances of "just dying" (no lights, no crank, and ECU reset) while the wife was driving it and I think this is probably the problem.

  16. #34
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    chicago, milwaukee area
    Posts
    329
    As was stated earlier, there is no fuse for the starter. Those large fuses are for the alternator and all the controls and lights I the car. Basically a main fuse before all the smaller fuses when you open your driver door. I learned this the hard way. I installed a new starter solenoid and the main lug to the starter (one of the posts on the solenoid) was just barely making contact with the oil line above it. It drew so much power into the frame back to the battery, it would appear the car lost all power. This was because of the tremendous voltage drop from a direct short. If necessary, I have a spare , complete battery to starter wire I can lay out so everyone can see what I'm talking about. It runs through the firewall and along the passenger side footwell directly to the + terminal of the battery in the trunk.

  17. #35
    Registered User Kgnast's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Brooklyn, NYC
    Posts
    225
    I am going through this right now actually. Totally corroded terminals, so bad the positive power lead was hanging by a few strands and ultimately let go. I have to run down and pick up some end terminals for the leads, some new bolts and hardware to screw em back down, clean off some corrosion on the exposed metal pieces. The fuse looks relatively fine, but might as well change it out while the fuse block assembly in in pieces for a cleaning anyway.

  18. #36
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Binghamton Area, NY
    Posts
    3,735
    Glad to read that you got it running! Excellent.....

    Mike
    2018 BMW M5 Black Sapphire Metallic, 2015 Q7 S-Line Daytona Grey Pearl Effect
    (prior 2000 A6 4.2 sport, traded, 2003 RS6, sold, 2016 BMW M2, traded)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •