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Thread: RS6 won't start.. Where is the main fuse?

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    Registered User spoolinrs6's Avatar
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    Post RS6 won't start.. Where is the main fuse?

    Hey guys the other day i tried to turn on my rs6 it turned on literally for one second and just died on me. I have tried jumping it so many ways and nothing. The car is dead no lights on dash at all. I think this a battery problem or needs a fuse. Any suggestions please?

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    Is it cranking? If it's cranking it's probably not the battery. EDIT: you said no lights. So it probably is the battery. I'm sitting on the side of the road right now. I think mine is the engine speed sensor. When I hope my VCDS up and crank the motor I get no signal from it. It says zero RPMs. 95 degrees here sitting on the side of the road waiting for a flatbed.

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    Registered User MaxRS6's Avatar
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    Might try the ECU fuse. Wild guess and less than .03 worth
    210K miles rolled

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    Quote Originally Posted by UrS6 View Post
    I think mine is the engine speed sensor. When I hope my VCDS up and crank the motor I get no signal from it. It says zero RPMs. 95 degrees here sitting on the side of the road waiting for a flatbed.
    I bet it starts again when it cools off. Symptom common on VAG cars... have had it happen on my UrS and VR6.

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    Registered User spoolinrs6's Avatar
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    No the car is literally dead it has power to the battery I checked but it's dead no lights on dash and I have to put the key in the door to lock it.

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    Registered User spoolinrs6's Avatar
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    Do you know where ecu fuse is located max rs6?

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    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Master fuse? You get any heavy rain? Pop hood, look at passenger side under cowl below windshield. There's a big ass fuse there. Although my car was fine, we found it heavily corroded a few years back.

    When my battery died a few years ago, it would at least take a charge from a jump. When dead it would still turn on all lights, just clicking as the starter didn't have juice to turn over.

    Best of luck fellas!
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

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    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    In situations like this ALWAYS start at the battery. Then move on to the connections. Even a car that has a battery with a bad cell can usually be jumpered from another car and started - as long as the battery has zero charge and is deemed 'dead' . If you can't even jumper it to start, have NO dash lights, headlights, radio, etc., then it's certainly a battery. Try a battery charger. If you don't have one, take the battery out and have a load test performed at any local battery reseller. Not sure where to start next, but I highly suspect you won't need to worry about that since I believe it's a battery.
    Last edited by Bigglezworth; July 31st, 2015 at 14:33.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

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    Registered User spoolinrs6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lswing View Post
    Master fuse? You get any heavy rain? Pop hood, look at passenger side under cowl below windshield. There's a big ass fuse there. Although my car was fine, we found it heavily corroded a few years back.

    When my battery died a few years ago, it would at least take a charge from a jump. When dead it would still turn on all lights, just clicking as the starter didn't have juice to turn over.

    Best of luck fellas!
    Do you know exactly where? I couldn't find anything. Can you send a pic?

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    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spoolinrs6 View Post
    Do you know exactly where? I couldn't find anything. Can you send a pic?
    Can't get a pic, moving my car.

    Did you remove the black plastic cowl that covers all below the windshield and over the coolant tank? I remember it being fairly obvious once that was removed, the wires are large and it's a big fuse. Passenger side...
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

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    Registered User spoolinrs6's Avatar
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    i just see the air filter there. i took it out nothing under there.

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    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spoolinrs6 View Post
    i just see the air filter there. i took it out nothing under there.
    Hmmmm, I could have sworn it's up against the firewall right there, near the drain plug...hope someone can weigh in.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

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    Registered User ttboost's Avatar
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    It's in the cowl. You need to remove the cowl cover on the passenger side...it's deep down...Start with your battery, then your alternator. Common problems. If you get it jumped and running, check power at the battery. Anything less than 13.5v-14v, get an alternator. Good luck...

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    or a voltage regulator.

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    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Voltage regulators are frequently a component in all alternators these days and are not responsible for starting a car. They are solely to ensure the alternating current generated by the stator doesn't overcharge the battery. If you have a dead battery it's caused by a few things - not being charged in an extended length of time (charge depletes while they are hooked up to a car's electrical system as there is still 'draw' when a car is parked and not running), dead cell, crack in case that leads to overheating, poor internals in the alternator (be it a voltage regulator, brushes, stator, open circuit to ground, etc.). Effectively once you use the DC current of the battery to start a car you can leave it running on the AC current generated by the alternator and remove the battery. My money is still on a bad battery being the problem with starting. As to why your battery has failed, the next stop as stated by the previous two posts are to ensure your alternator is providing a sufficient charge rate that ensures your battery is always at full charge.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

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    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttboost View Post
    It's in the cowl. You need to remove the cowl cover on the passenger side...it's deep down...Start with your battery, then your alternator. Common problems. If you get it jumped and running, check power at the battery. Anything less than 13.5v-14v, get an alternator. Good luck...
    Thanks, I was beginning to worry, I new it was there! The amount of corrosion on mine was something else, worked fine though.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  17. #17
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Yea, like he said. Under the plastic cowl cover next to the Pollen filter. A lot less work than pulling the Airbox, takes about 30sec to get to it.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
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    Registered User MaxRS6's Avatar
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    I had a no start with cranking when fuse 31 (pg 282 owner's manual) blew a couple of times over an extended period. The last time it did it (years ago)- it would crank but not start. Final determination was the APR chip had come loose. APR re-installed the chip and all has been good. Good luck on hunting down the headache bear.
    210K miles rolled

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