Another 01E conversion

[bethridg]

After months of collecting the major pieces needed to do the conversion I started the project 2 weeks ago.

Things to do:

* AMD 6-speed tune
* SAI delete
* Pre-cat gut and replace worn flex joints or replace downpipes
* MAF seals
* Cam tensioner pads / seals / valve cover gaskets
* Cam position sensors (?)
* Timing belt service
* Crank seals
* Fuel filter (bought last year but bracket bolt just spins)
* Bufkin pipe
* JHM solid shift linkage
* Voltage regulator (?)
* Turbos rebuilt
* Coolant temp sensor
* Relocate boost gauge to glove box
* 02 sensors (?)
* EGTs (? trying to avoid replacing)
* Remove secondary radiators (?)
* Intercoolers (?)


On to the pictures!

Upgraded 01E TDI kit from Advanced Automotion with SteveKen adapter.



AMD Spec 3 Plus clutch/pressure plate.



Cleared out some room in the garage and backed the Beast in.



I could almost remove the front-end blind folded. Almost.



I did the JB weld "fix" on the intercoolers and pressure tested underwater around this time last year. But sadly they are definitely leaking again. Replacements might be coming soon.



The only major hang-up I had was removing the starter cables. Just enough room to get a box end wrench and make 1/8th of a turn each time. Wish I would have picked up some long angled needle nose pliers like suggested on other threads for the clip.



Around 20 hours total and it was ready to come out. It will go a lot faster if I have to do it again.



The 5-Tip is massive. The leak that I thought was coming from the driver side turbo seems to be from the inner CV joint flange area. The output seal was leaking also.



Needs a little de-greaser from when the passenger valve cover was leaking but otherwise surprisingly clean.



It took the better part of a morning to separate the trans. Passenger turbo and header removed to gain access to starter / torque converter bolts.



Flex plate bolts are crazy tight; like everyone else seems to have experienced. I snapped my M10 triple square socket while trying to loosen things up with the acetylene torch. This is on hold until the impact triple square sockets arrive.



I don't have any reason to believe the turbos are not original. No records of them being replaced. And with just over 101k miles now they look outstanding. No excessive shaft play.



The only blemish I can see is on the compressor side of the passenger turbo. There are two of these circles and it looks like one of the fin edges is chewed up slightly. If something went thru there it's probably stuck in the intercooler. The plan is to have them sent away and rebuilt while they are out anyway.



Also spent a few evenings working on the shift bezel. I sourced up a manual bezel from a '99 A4 with chrome trim, a gaiter from a '99 S4 and a cheap knob for an A3. Not super happy with the knob but it will do until I find the RS4 or similar knob that I want.

[Dmb408]

wow, you guys amaze me

[Bigglezworth]

Good on ya. 20hrs is more than reasonable if you aren't a long time wrencher. The job can be done in under 7 hrs for one person once you've done it a couple of times. I personally wouldn't change out either the O2's or the EGT's. I would also look to swap out the two large O-rings for the coolant bypass pipe simply because they are only a few dollars and easy to swap both out in 5 minutes while you have full acces to the rear of the engine. Finally, I would would pop off the voltage regulator for the starter and confirm what the wear is on the stator. Likely doing just fine. Up to you if the additoinal $75-80 for a new regulator is worth it while you have easier access to the alternator. Replacing a bunch of items can quickly get the better of you time and money wise.

The removal of the 5Tip for the 6MT will improve your ability to access both from below without having to remove the engine in the future should the need arise (will just need to lower cradle a bit) as you have improved clearance around a smaller belhousing. The one thing I would however recommend you do while you have this out is to relocate/replace your Suction Jet Pump (SJP) like I did recently.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32...ugh-idle/page2

Enjoy.

[kruat]

I'm jelous...one day I'll drop a 01e in my rs.

[hahnmgh63]

bethridg, looks familiar. I received the same pallet from Scotty a couple of months ago. Haven't gotten my clutch yet but trying to decide between the AMD Stg 3+ you got or the Stg 4. Also going to do the AMD tune since they're just up the road from me. Did most of the things you listed a couple of years (and only 10K) ago when I installed my rebuilt 517 tranny and Milltek Catless downpipes. I did every seal and sensor plus the Bufkin pipe.

[s8prtotype]

Awesome, keep the pics coming!

[Other_Erik]

After months of collecting the major pieces needed to do the conversion I started the project 2 weeks ago.

Things to do:

* Pre-cat gut and replace worn flex joints or replace downpipes
* Voltage regulator (?)
* Turbos rebuilt
* Coolant temp sensor
* 02 sensors (?)
* EGTs (? trying to avoid replacing)
* Remove secondary radiators (?)
* Intercoolers (?)

above edited for brevity

Addressing one by one - if you're going to gut the pre-cats, Wait for your front Oxygen sensors to go bad before replacing. They're going to absorb impacts from microscopic bits of those pre-cats being tossed down the exhaust and eventually go bad from it anyway. If you think it's time to replace the rear sensors, go for it.

So I've had an issue with my alternator, bought a replacement that worked for about an hour. If you're interested, I can have that replacement rebuilt and sent to you once I get my rebuilt original back and reinstalled. Rebuild cost runs ~$220 + shipping, much better than the $974 list price Audi has for a new Alternator that they don't even stock anymore... Would ask $500 total or $250 + your old alternator in return if you're interested. Either way I go, I want to have a known good unit on the shelf for the next time I get zero voltage coming out of the alternator (have been without the beast 4 weeks so far between finding a replacement in stock and now having to immediately rebuild it).

From looking at the turbos, I doubt you need rebuilt - the biggest indicator would be excessive shaft play. Maybe deburr the fin that got chipped up, otherwise looks okay to me.
Side note/thought - since you're going 6sp, you now have room for bigger turbos. If you're still bent on rebuild, replace with more HP!

Coolant temp sensor is dead easy/simple. Plenty of instructionals on replacing that. Just make sure you don't lose the stupid plastic clip used to hold it in.

EGTs - are you getting codes? If so, have you tried the re-soldering trick? I did the solder on mine, and they were good for another 18 months, but now it's time to replace. Not looking forward to the $500 in parts and $godonlyknows in labor - at least you're saving on the labor piece.

Why would you want to remove secondary radiators (besides simplified plumbing)? Just because you're going manual doesn't mean you can ignore transmission fluid temp. Just sayin'

If your IC's are leaking, save yourself time and frustration - go Wagner IC kit and forget about it for at least 3 years. In the grand scheme of this build, $2500 is chump change.

O_E

[bethridg]

Replacing a bunch of items can quickly get the better of you time and money wise.

Truth. I was debating removing the intake to check the state of things. I'll add the o-rings to my list and mull over the SJP. Thanks.

[bethridg]

So I've had an issue with my alternator, bought a replacement that worked for about an hour. If you're interested, I can have that replacement rebuilt and sent to you once I get my rebuilt original back and reinstalled. Rebuild cost runs ~$220 + shipping, much better than the $974 list price Audi has for a new Alternator that they don't even stock anymore... Would ask $500 total or $250 + your old alternator in return if you're interested. Either way I go, I want to have a known good unit on the shelf for the next time I get zero voltage coming out of the alternator (have been without the beast 4 weeks so far between finding a replacement in stock and now having to immediately rebuild it).

I've had zero problems with the charging system. But read that a few of you guys have. This falls into the category of "while I have access". Thanks for the offer.

Side note/thought - since you're going 6sp, you now have room for bigger turbos. If you're still bent on rebuild, replace with more HP!

I've read all the "big turbo" threads. I think the only one that went anywhere so far was Milka and haven't seen any updates here or on the other forums in a year. Probably a pipe dream. Just dial it in and enjoy. However, w/m kit is still in the long term plans.

EGTs - are you getting codes? If so, have you tried the re-soldering trick? I did the solder on mine, and they were good for another 18 months, but now it's time to replace. Not looking forward to the $500 in parts and $godonlyknows in labor - at least you're saving on the labor piece.

No codes. Insulation on the passenger side sensor wire is a little frayed. For such a small item it has a pretty big price tag. Trying to avoid.

Why would you want to remove secondary radiators (besides simplified plumbing)? Just because you're going manual doesn't mean you can ignore transmission fluid temp. Just sayin'

Still debating this; yes to simplify but also to get that heat away from the intercoolers. Pretty sure this has been discussed before but don't remember the consensus. Probably all in my head.

If your IC's are leaking, save yourself time and frustration - go Wagner IC kit and forget about it for at least 3 years. In the grand scheme of this build, $2500 is chump change.

You're right. At minimum, I'd like to replace the boost hoses/clamps but haven't found a good online source for the Venair kit. And the Wag kit includes a set of hoses and trick CF shrouds. Plus the grills, since I'm not running fog lamps anymore, would clean the front end up.

[bethridg]

Pedal assembly went in last night. But I have to take it all apart again because I forgot to swap over the starter inhibitor switch from the donor.

Anyone know of a source for the clutch pivot bushing? The closest part number I could come up with is 171721153C and it's discontinued. There's a seller on ebay that has a ton of NOS listings but he's located in Greece.

[Other_Erik]

I've had zero problems with the charging system. But read that a few of you guys have. This falls into the category of "while I have access". Thanks for the offer.

I've read all the "big turbo" threads. I think the only one that went anywhere so far was Milka and haven't seen any updates here or on the other forums in a year. Probably a pipe dream. Just dial it in and enjoy. However, w/m kit is still in the long term plans.

No codes. Insulation on the passenger side sensor wire is a little frayed. For such a small item it has a pretty big price tag. Trying to avoid.

Still debating this; yes to simplify but also to get that heat away from the intercoolers. Pretty sure this has been discussed before but don't remember the consensus. Probably all in my head.

You're right. At minimum, I'd like to replace the boost hoses/clamps but haven't found a good online source for the Venair kit. And the Wag kit includes a set of hoses and trick CF shrouds. Plus the grills, since I'm not running fog lamps anymore, would clean the front end up.

No worries. EGT Sensors are another "While you have access" item like the alternator/regulator. If you're worried on the regulator, you can grab one on Amazon for $35 (which saved me $75 when it came to rebuild time)

I wouldn't call big turbos necessarily a pipe dream, but I do get what you're saying - not to mention that at that point you'd also be looking at heavier duty injectors, etc...

IIRC, the general consensus was that the heat coming from the aux rads is minimal/nominal in the grand scheme of things, and if you're thinking of W/M or even just an IC Spray kit, you're more than over-compensating.

Again on the IC's - the kit is pretty swag, and you get better overall cooling over those larger cores, and you're going no-fog, and and and and and.... just makes sense to me to go Wag's, wishing I had the necessary cashola free but now it's time to buy a house (yay!, I think?) so everything's going into down payment on that once the beast is running.

Good luck with the build! Hope you don't end up loving it so much you sell it off after the first thousand miles like 9/10 seem to do.

O_E

[bethridg]

wishing I had the necessary cashola free

Benefits of being single, working from home and no debt (aside from the mortgage). Also moderate cost of living in the Midwest. Bought my house 3 years ago; one of the best decisions I've ever made.

[Turbowned]

Benefits of being single, working from home and no debt (aside from the mortgage). Also moderate cost of living in the Midwest. Bought my house 3 years ago; one of the best decisions I've ever made.

A recent visit to the Southwest has got me thinking... plenty of room, cheap living space... just gotta get the g/f on board!

I know it's been touched on already, but if you're looking to rebuild the turbos, why not look at something newer and more efficient like BorgWarner EFR or Garrett GTX3071R's? The dual ball bearing billet wheel turbos spool faster and are more effective at higher pressure ratios than any of the old journal bearing stuff. Plus you can opt for stainless turbine housings, and convert everything to compact and easily-serviceable V-band clamps. The only way I'm doing a 6spd swap is if I can produce north of 600awhp; it's one of those "if I'm gonna spend this much time and money, go-big-or-go-home" things.

[bethridg]

I know it's been touched on already, but if you're looking to rebuild the turbos, why not look at something newer and more efficient like BorgWarner EFR or Garrett GTX3071R's? The dual ball bearing billet wheel turbos spool faster and are more effective at higher pressure ratios than any of the old journal bearing stuff. Plus you can opt for stainless turbine housings, and convert everything to compact and easily-serviceable V-band clamps.

Unless it's a direct bolt-on; I'm not looking at any major fabrication right now.

[Turbowned]

You might look into some form of hybrid K04's then. Loba, MRC, etc. I just bumped into these:

http://sillyrabbitmotorsport.com/eng...?product_id=86

[bethridg]

Updates and more pics.

F those flex plate bolts! Only one came out easily. No luck with heat; broke 2 sockets and stripped two bolt heads. Air chisel was no help either. Finally went the Fastguy way with angle grinder/vise grips. Success!!!




The casualties....



Rear main seal (Timken 716102) should arrive today.



Test fitting the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/adapter.







Oil cooler removed for Bufkin pipe.



Plastic pipe was in pretty good condition.



Reinstalled the oil cooler. Need to decide on my front mount oil cooler solution. Either keep the combo cooler or go the SteveKen BMW route.



034 SAI block off plates.





Basic timing belt kit from Blauparts. I did my last TB service ~10k miles ago. Decided I didn't need to replace the water pump/thermostat that quickly. Gates belt on the way too.



I didn't like the look of the upper rollers after so few miles. Bearings still operate smoothly but had a lot of build-up on the roller surface. This kit was from ECS Tuning. We'll see how the Blauparts kit holds up. Probably ruining my scientific control by going with the Gates belt this time.



Blauparts cam seals, tensioner pads and valve cover gaskets.



2.7T CPS (06A906433C) and spacer (078906435).



Advanced Automotion reverse light and neutral safety harness.



I still have two shipments of misc items (exhaust/turbo gaskets and hardware, voltage regulator, coolant temp sensor, rear coolant pipe o-rings, oil/filter) on the way. Think I've decided to keep the secondary radiators installed. Turbos still need to be sent out for rebuild.

Lets talk throwout bearings! The AMD kit came with a plastic faced bearing. I'm not enthused about that. Is there a metal faced option out there? Perhaps http://store.034motorsport.com/clutc....html?___SID=U ???

[Other_Erik]

Wish I could answer your questions, just checking in and subscribing to the build thread, looks like you're doing a good amount of what I want to do after buying the house and building the cashflow back up. Lots of time and attention paid to preventative maintenance - very nice. What's the saying, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure?

Good luck with the build!

O_E

[Fastguy]

You might look into some form of hybrid K04's then. Loba, MRC, etc. I just bumped into these:

http://sillyrabbitmotorsport.com/eng...?product_id=86

I have and am doing these turbos. I'll be sure to report once up and going.

I also went went with the re-cores from srm and they look fantastic. My water meth is started and the lines ran. Can't finish plumbing until engine back in. Just got my tdi trans a few days ago and a set of pipes with high flow race cats. All going back together as soon as I get home in a week or so.

The secondary cooler stuff is easy to remove and I think I'll be glad I did it. There are SO many potential points for leaks to occur.

I finally found a weld shop that thinks he can get the combo cooler back together. I think the hardest part is the weld bung which I am 99% sure, now, it is a m22x1.5 fitting. He said if he can't find one he'll see heat it costs to machine it. I asked him to do both fittings even though only one is broken off.

Right now I have 550 cc Bosch injectors. Hopefully that'll keep up. Don't think it will do for e85 though.

If you have any questions I can answer up to this point, I'd be happy to help. And yes, those flex plate Bolts were a nightmare.