Another 01E conversion

[bethridg]

rip into the turbos like that

Forgot to mention I'm trying to come up with a design for a kinetic perpetual motion desk sculpture that incorporates the old turbine, shaft and compressor wheel from the old CHRAs. Hate to toss those out.

[SteveKen]

You shouldn't have any clearance issues with the shifter linkages. Be sure that the shift rod isn't still hitting the drivers side front oxygen sensor. And that the cross rod is mounted to the right hole. (I'm pretty sure that there are two options)

Also be sure that you have the correct motor and trans mount heights by comparing them to the originals.

The only other reason I can thinkn of is that maybe the JHM items are causing this.

I've done the conversion using both the early and late style shifters and haven't had any issues with hitting the trans tunnel.

[bethridg]

You shouldn't have any clearance issues with the shifter linkages. Be sure that the shift rod isn't still hitting the drivers side front oxygen sensor. And that the cross rod is mounted to the right hole. (I'm pretty sure that there are two options)

Also be sure that you have the correct motor and trans mount heights by comparing them to the originals.

The only other reason I can thinkn of is that maybe the JHM items are causing this.

I've done the conversion using both the early and late style shifters and haven't had any issues with hitting the trans tunnel.

Trans mounts are the original units from the 5Tip. There is no interference up at the JHM piece. Below is a pic of the only location making contact with anything. Maybe I have the cross rod installed wrong. I'll play around with it some more when I lower everything to replace the motor mounts and slave cylinder.

[Fastguy]

Motor is in position but....problems.... I tore a motor mount trying to lift the motor, motor mount brackets, and subframe as one assembly. Ordered 034 mounts and resistors.

I also have a clearance problem with the shift linkage. The stabilizer rod is good but the shift rod is making contact with the transmission tunnel. I can feel the interference in the shifter knob. Unable to engage R-4 gears cleanly. Don't know if it's the early style shift linkage I have or I'm just dumb.

Sorry, looked back and realized your timing belt was not even installed in that pic...my mistake.

I tore my original mounts near instantly the first time I pulled a 2.7t. I know now they are not designed to have ANY upward force on them whatsoever. I learned the hard way.

I had no issues with my shifter (knock on wood), at least with clearances other than the o2 sensor which I bent out of the way. If there is anything you'd like to reference as far as pictures go, let me know and I'll go out and snap whatever you need. I did not, however, change the stock shifter mechanism whatsoever from the point I removed it from the donor car. I simply unbolted and swapped it straight over. I didn't even update the bushings or change to a short shifter (which I sure hope I don't regret down the line). Have you tried shifting it with the engine running? All four wheels of mine are off the ground and I was able to start the car and put it into each gear (as far as I can tell) with ease.

EDIT: sorry, your previous pic just appeared. I see now where you are rubbing. It seems something must be installed incorrectly. Mine bolted right up with no issues there. Yours should as well. In a bit, I'll go out and take a look to see how close mine is. ***ALSO*** I too, first installed that cross rod in the incorrect hole. Don't know why the other hole is even there (to screw stuff up) but it throws everything out of whack. I bet that's what is going on here.

[bethridg]

Light at the end of the tunnel....

More parts arrived, first run and remaining drivetrain/exhaust pieces installed.

034 Motorsports street density engine mounts and resistors. Drilled out the brackets to accept the larger 10mm hardware.



I had the worst time installing the slave cylinder. Wasn't until I received the second unit that I realized the bleeder valve was plastic. Which explains how I managed to strip it on the first unit. Replace with new and minutes later blew the piston out the end. Swap bleeder valve over to original with exact same result. Blown piston. WTF. Order a 3rd. Couple days later it arrives, by then I figure out I must be somehow missing the clutch fork and the piston is reaching the end of it's travel. Carefully install it again directing the slave rod as straight as possible. I make a mental note that I really can't feel any resistance like I'd expect if it's properly seated in the clutch fork. And it happens again. I give up. 4th unit arrives and it all becomes very clear. The JHM shift linkage upgrade has a counter weight which makes it impossible to slide the slave in straight from the rear. I had been trying to angle it in from the side. Unbolt the shift linkage, install the slave, bleed and re-install the linkage. SUCCESS! ~$200 wasted.

Also, Apikol MAF seal upgrade.



Trying to figure out my shift linkage clearance issue I went ahead and ordered a JHM short shifter with updated base (1" shorter version). I'm pretty convinced that either I have some oddball shift linkage (not likely) or the JHM upgrade changed the geometry on the gear selector rod. To make it all work I removed a small section of the transmission tunnel insulation where it was making contact.



Looking back, I didn't share any pictures when installing the motor. Here I was doing some last minute tidying. Drained and filled the transmission while I had easy access. Fresh motor oil added at a later time.



This is where I tore the original motor mount. Not paying attention, I had the lower control arms on top of the subframe. Which doesn't work well when the hoist is lifting up and the DRC is pushing down. I'm okay with this now because I know the motor mounts shouldn't have to be touched for a very long time.



Turbo priming and first run! Amazingly I got all the wiring installed correctly the first time. And so far, after a few runs, no leaks. A few more heat cycles and I'll go back and re-tighten what I can.



Retained the stock combination cooler for now but capped off the trans circuit. Installing the core support is so much easier with the trans cooler lines removed.



Last shot of the short throw shifter installed. The stock shifter height felt too tall and sloppy compared. Tight and direct engagements now. I'll have to try out the optional stiffer reverse springs included.



Hopefully I'll have it back on the ground by weeks end. Then ship out the ECU for reprogramming.

[Fastguy]

Your install and meticulous attention to detail looks amazing! Fantastic job. Would surely like to meet and compare stories someday!

[Turbowned]

You know, everyone wants to criticize the packaging job that Audi did on these motors, but I have to say, it looks brilliant sitting in there:

[MaxRS6]

^Is all good when it is in- Just not so much sitting out for some relatively simple items..;0

[bethridg]

You know, everyone wants to criticize the packaging job that Audi did on these motors, but I have to say, it looks brilliant sitting in there

^Is all good when it is in- Just not so much sitting out for some relatively simple items..;0

Case in point, I might sell it if I ever have to go near this starter again. Terrible access even with the motor out of the car.

[bethridg]

Your install and meticulous attention to detail looks amazing! Fantastic job. Would surely like to meet and compare stories someday!

I feel for ya. At least I got to enjoy driving mine for 2 years before taking on this project. You will be rewarded soon.

[nubcake]

Here's why you are hitting trans tunnel:
BTDT.

[bethridg]

Here's why you are hitting trans tunnel:
BTDT.

I tried both crossrod mount positions. That threw the shifter even more out of whack.

[nubcake]

Hm, it appears there are even more shift linkage versions than I had imagined.
Sorry bout the confusion.

[SteveKen]

Are you sure that the piece that attaches to the 01E's shifter selector (barrel) is seated and wedged in properly?

I think that if it's off, it might not seat properly.

[bethridg]

Are you sure that the piece that attaches to the 01E's shifter selector (barrel) is seated and wedged in properly?

I think that if it's off, it might not seat properly.

Yeah I'm pretty sure. I posted some comparison pictures (stock vs JHM) in this thread a while back.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32...l=1#post276460

RAUDI used this same setup when he did his swap but I never saw a picture of it installed nor did he ever mention any issues.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/26...l=1#post257842

Wish I would have grabbed the part # off the selector rod before buttoning everything up. Because finding a clear picture for a C5 6-speed linkage setup is difficult. My selector rod makes a distinct bend towards the drivers side just passed the dust boot. Whereas the example from audis4parts appears to be fairly straight.





I don't know. With my modification to the trans tunnel insulation I can now row thru the gears without issue but it's still up on jack stands. So the jury is still out.

[bethridg]

Ran the car around the block a couple times.

First impression



Came back and scanned it. Coming up with the following DTC now with some sputtering/hesitation.

17473 - Fuel Pressure Regulation 
     P1065 - 008 - Regulation Discrepancy

Google doesn't return much but one thread on rs246 matches the symptoms and points to a faulty primary fuel pump. Hmmm.

[b5widebody]

You mounting point of the shift lever is wrong
you cannot mount it on the side of the transmission
needs to be on the top of transmission
see the arrows I made

[b5widebody]

here is a close up