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Thread: JHM front rotors with EBC Blues

  1. #1
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    JHM front rotors with EBC Blues

    I'll first say that I've been running stock rotors and EBC reds thorugh the winter. I've also been running stock rotors and EBC Blues for the last couple of track days. Front splash shields are removed for better heat dissipation.

    Last night was the first I've been able to drive the car in a couple of weeks (another project). Before putting the brakes back together I shot the rotors with some brake clean (as one would) and the coating began to blister like new paint. I then romoved all of the coating from the braking surface. After re-assembly, I did a few slow stops on the way to the interstate then 20-30 90mph to 50 mph brake runs between traffic. At speed, the feel is solid. Under low speed and very melow braking I do have a slight pulse (in my butt, not on my foot). So, I believe a bit more of a bed-in is in order.

    Two things strike me from the earlier thread and my experience. 1, not sure what may be up with the zinc coating. The edges should stay looking good anyway. It certainly does not appear it should be on the braking surface. 2, EBC blues do not have the brake in coating that the EBC reds do. I do not believe the EBC reds should be heat cycled the way you would with a normal pad. I find this more anoying than anything, but I suppose for the general public it might be ok.

    Overall, I believe I'll be quite happy; and these look like a pretty good bang for the buck. We'll see how well they stay cool in a couple of weeks.

    Coating partially removed:
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  2. #2
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    ...and weights JHM 21.3 and Stock 26.9.

  3. #3
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Could you actually weigh the 2 rotors separately? Some have said the weight difference is not as much as jhm claims.

    Also, I've used the blues with stock rotors with good results (my opinion). I did notice some fade after 7 or 8 laps on a 2.5 mile course with 13 turns. This is probably more due to insufficient brake cooling than anything. Regardless, I'll be trying out the new Orange compound this summer which is supposedly better than the blues. We'll see. I also have phaeton brake ducts on the way, so that should help too.
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  4. #4
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    ...and weights JHM 21.3 and Stock 26.9. Those are actual weights of my passenger rotors using a bike scale. A difference of 11.2 pounds versus the 13 JHM lists.

    I have not experienced notable fade with either the Reds or the Blues. However, before going to Blues and pulling off the splash shields I boiled brake fluid after not using the brakes for a minute or so in the padock. So, I'd go for an easy drive pumping the pedal. The red pads were virtually melted after 3 track days...go figure.

    I considered the orange pads as well, but they describe the blues as being easy on the rotor and pretty much disposable after a few track days. My last set was about half burned through after 2 days. So, probably good for 3 days and maybe longer if things stay cool. The rears look pretty much new.

    Sounds like a very similar track that I've been running. Still a rookie, but I'm smiling. I think my instructors would prefer I had less power
    http://www.ridgemotorsportspark.com/

  5. #5
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Great to know the real numbers on those rotors. I know some of us, including myself, would be interested in hearing your impressions of them with track use.

    That track looks fun. Seems like it has nice elevation changes as well. What tires are you running on track with?
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  6. #6
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    I've been out to the Ridge in my 911 and it's a blast. I like it better than PIR up in Seattle but that's a pretty good track too. I've only had the RS6 out to Seattle but would like to take it to the Ridge this summer. I haven't tried the EBC Blue pads but I do like the Yellows. The RS6 is a heavy car, if I was going to track it much I would probably have a separate set of Rotors and track only pads as they get hot. I'm currently running OEM Audi rotors with the Phaeton brake duct upgrades for the front and it does help but they still get very hot, cool down laps are a must. Were the Rotors you weighed OEM or Zimmerman? I thought when I weighted the stock Rotors they were 26.1lbs (Not the 27.5lbs JHM claims for stock rotors) and the RS5 are 23.4lbs.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
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    Registered User Other_Erik's Avatar
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    Just curious, what brake fluid are you using? I've switched to Severe Duty 5.1, and while I haven't tracked the car since, I have yet to feel any sponginess, even when cooling down from some spirited driving. 0-100-0 and 0-125-0 runs on abandoned unpatrolled straight highway stretches late at night, high beams up for spotting as far ahead as possible, I know I'm not giving it quite the abuse that you guys are on real tracks, but I have noticed a difference on the cooling cycle afterward...

    O_E
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  8. #8
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    I use rbf600. Seems to work great for me. I always do some " cool down" driving after a track session.

    I tracked with stock fluid once. Never again.
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

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    I'm using the Michelin Pilot Super Sport. Had an over-the-top downpour last time out. Good track, good tires, and a good car...tooo much fun.

    I've been using a brand name DOT 4 fluid. There's a scary lesson Surprised no-one in my passenger seat knew I could grab another 100 degree boiling point although they did ask what fluid I was using. I'll be clicking 'Add to Cart'...thanks!

    The stock rotor I weighed is an Audi rotor that came with the car. The fronts were either freshly turned or new when I bought it last year. The rears were hammered. I'm betting they had to do the front brakes to pass a Texas inspection in order to sell it.

  10. #10
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    I'm using the RBF500 Motul also. I do bleed them once a year with a Motive power bleeder and bled them the day after my track session.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  11. #11
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    Thought I'd dig this up for an update:

    With the mild pulsing I was feeling, I was a good boy and checkeed the runout. It was about .0025. A bit high, but didn't bother me too much. Both sides were the same, and I tried indexing one side without luck.

    Then, a full track day. The first session was a little distracting since I did experience some pulsing and slightly varied pedal throw. After the first 3 sessions, the symptoms had all but gone away. I was able to concentrate on my driving more at that point.

    The afternoon sessions were great. Braking was smooth and consistant, and the brakes seemed to stay cooler than the morning although I was pushing them harder.

    I checked the runout again, and it's about .001. I am expecting continued improvement, and I'm quite happy. No more pulsing on public roads either.

    For street use, I suppose the EBC break-in compound may actually be a good idea here. It seems it may improve the runout under typical soft braking. I've seen several times discussions of runout getting worse without proper explanation. The closest I can think in my own experience is a bent axle shaft I was unaware of on one of my Jeeps. The rotor 'straightened' itself out with use several times until I realized what a bonehead I am

  12. #12
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    Interesting feedback. My rotors didn't have that cream colored coating when I purchased. Coating was clear.
    03 RS6 :: 01 allroad

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