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Thread: Outer CV Boot Replacement DIY question

  1. #1
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
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    Mech Outer CV Boot Replacement DIY question

    So I clarified my 'leak' and it's the CV joint boot which is torn. I had one replaced on the other side a year or so ago for $248.

    I ordered the parts (kit from ECS for $18.00 plus shipping. I found a nice write up on Audizine for a 2002 A6.

    I looked at the Ebahn manual and the description involves a special tool to press the DV joint off the drive axle. The Writeup on Audizine says you can drive the bolt back into the end of the drive shaft and it will press the CV joint off the end of the drive axle thus the "special tool" is not needed.


    Can anyone confirm this for the RS6???

    Thanks.

    Mike
    '18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
    (prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,

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    Considering the mess and miles on the joint...

    I replaced mine with raxles complete. 1hr per side taking mytime

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    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    While Raxles are nice, they are super expensive. A $25.00 repair doesn't require a $300.00 axle. Just my opinion. Don't use the bolt method. You can do this with the axle in and out. If you have neverf done this before yourself, I recommend taking the entire axle out. I'm going to assume that you know how to remove the axle and not provide wirte-up here. Put entire axle in vice. Cut off the worn out boot to expoose the inside of the joint. Wipe off all excess grease with papertowel. Grab a hammer and a metal drift. Place end of drift on the edge of the joint closest to the axle shaft. Hammer down on this point and the joint will eventually 'pop' off the retainer clip on the end of the axle. Clean up the end of the axle, install new boot with clip, then reinstall retainer clip, washer, and plastic spacer. Then put your joint back on (presume you have cleaned the entire joint with minearl spirits and inspected for wear), regrease the joint and put additional grease in to the boot. Attach boot to joint and installation back in the car is the reverse of taking out.

    Entire effort is a nominal 1hr per side. You can save time by not taking the whole axle out.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

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    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigglezworth View Post
    While Raxles are nice, they are super expensive. A $25.00 repair doesn't require a $300.00 axle. Just my opinion.
    Wow, they must have gone up. Last time I had to buy them, they were just over a hundred bucks each.
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

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    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
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    Thanks....

    Could you elaborate on the "don't use the bolt method?"

    Thank you ,

    Mike
    '18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
    (prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,

  6. #6
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4everRS View Post
    Wow, they must have gone up. Last time I had to buy them, they were just over a hundred bucks each.
    haha. Sorry. I'm thinking CAD which is a nominal 28% more than USD these days. Add to that the stupid amounts of $$ US shipping companies charge to ship to anything outside of their border and you quickly end up at a $300.00 axle...
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

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    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aronis View Post
    Thanks....

    Could you elaborate on the "don't use the bolt method?"

    Thank you ,

    Mike
    Well, you can certainly try this method. I've NEVER had any success doing it and if you want to reuse the joint, then I stand by my suggestion to not do it. If you are throwing things away, you could try it I guess. You can also use a slide puller like this guy did. I find the drift and hammer to be quick an efficient and doesn't strip bolts.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=draYdAV79oM
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

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    Registered User mik15's Avatar
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    i've never personally done it but my mechanic always takes the axle out, properly cleans it and then puts the boot back on, using the same pattern as Biggle described above. I too think is the best way to have it out so you can do a proper cleaning, plus you'll have to wash out all the spilled grease on the inner side of the rim and wheel liner, link arms and so on...
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    Registered User RSoverAll's Avatar
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    Seems like cleaning all the slung grease is more work than the actual axles replacement, going through this job myself at the moment

  10. #10
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSoverAll View Post
    Seems like cleaning all the slung grease is more work than the actual axles replacement, going through this job myself at the moment
    If you're not fortunate enough to have a parts washer, you can fill a plastic jug with mineral spirits/paint thinner, or worse case - gas in a WELL vented area and away from spark... Put on some rubber gloves, grab a small paint brush, and drop entire joint in fluid while rotating everything around. In a couple of minutes everything will be cleaner than a babies bottom. Wipe down, air dry, and then regrease. Easy peasy.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

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    Registered User Other_Erik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigglezworth View Post
    If you're not fortunate enough to have a parts washer, you can fill a plastic jug with mineral spirits/paint thinner, or worse case - gas in a WELL vented area and away from spark... Put on some rubber gloves, grab a small paint brush, and drop entire joint in fluid while rotating everything around. In a couple of minutes everything will be cleaner than a babies bottom. Wipe down, air dry, and then regrease. Easy peasy.
    Works fine for the joint, not so well for the inner fender liner, under-engine skid, and all the other bits that get grease slung on/in/under them.

    On a somewhat-related note, anyone have experience with full engine degreasing / steam cleaning? Leaky VC gaskets have left a good amount of oily residue in places that get hot, and sometimes I can detect the distinct smell of boiled-down coolant residue being re-boiled...

    Thanks
    O_E
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    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
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    I'm taking the easy way out, spoke with my mechanic and he will do it for me. I'm having a few other things done while he has the car, seal on transmission pan, seal on oil pan, oil change and filter, new brake lines. Also there is a leak in the coolant system, he installed a new radiation last year so hopefully it is something simple.

    I'm going to need new summer tires too, but hope to squeeze of another summer with them, the front's are wearing on the inner wall, so I am rotating the tires to try to get another summer out of them.

    So my DIY has changed to DI-with-a-mechanic-and-his-lift-and-tools. I'll be in charge of coffee and holding the light.

    Mike
    '18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
    (prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,

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    Registered User RSoverAll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Other_Erik View Post
    Works fine for the joint, not so well for the inner fender liner, under-engine skid, and all the other bits that get grease slung on/in/under them.

    On a somewhat-related note, anyone have experience with full engine degreasing / steam cleaning? Leaky VC gaskets have left a good amount of oily residue in places that get hot, and sometimes I can detect the distinct smell of boiled-down coolant residue being re-boiled...

    Thanks
    O_E
    That's the hard part of the job, the fender liner and the suspension uprights were just covered in grease and brake dust, road grime etc. I think Simple Green works pretty well, and a tub of hot water and Tide, that's what I'm using. Was hesitant to use something really aggressive on the aluminum bits.

    When I cleaned my engine I warmed it a bit for about 5-10 mins at idle pulled the air box, stuffed and covered the inlet pipes very well and used a lil warm water, simple green and a low pressure wand over everything. Hit the really oil saturated areas with a microfiber towel and some elbow grease. Came out sparkling clean! I didn't use and dressing or anything afterwards. Dried it with some low pressure compressed air and ran the engine with the mafs in but box off. Valve covers had a small amount of seepage.

  14. #14
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Rubber gloves, paint brush, and a couple of cups of mineral spirits will clean things up lickety split. You can also use a foam based engine degreaser and power wash everything off,
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

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    Blast, I just was changing to my summer wheels/tires and found the grease on the right front wheel; was puzzled for a moment, then quickly realized *dammit!* it's the axle. I'll probably go the DIY(ish) route; get the boot kit for peanuts and buy beer or lunch (or both) for one of the techs at work.
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbowned View Post
    Blast, I just was changing to my summer wheels/tires and found the grease on the right front wheel; was puzzled for a moment, then quickly realized *dammit!* it's the axle. I'll probably go the DIY(ish) route; get the boot kit for peanuts and buy beer or lunch (or both) for one of the techs at work.

    this is exactly what I just discovered as well, except mine in the inner left boot.

  17. #17
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
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    every RS6 will need all 8 boots replaced about now...LOL....

    I spoke with Raxles and their pricing is not bad for complete axel assemblies, about $1000 for all four if I recall.......not a bad DIY if you have the correct tools.

    Mike
    '18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
    (prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,

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    Just finished mine a few hundred miles ago, pretty easy and cheap. I used Mcguiers degrease, red stuff. Ive used spirits as well, both work but I like the red stuff now.

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