Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 19 to 31 of 31

Thread: Source for reman. steering rack

  1. #19
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Roy, WA
    Posts
    3,303
    4B7422052CX The 'X' at the end of an Audi part number reflects it as being a remanufactured part. If you want a Genuine rebuilt part Miramar Audi has it for $973.65 www.genuineaudiparts.com
    Or http://www.vwpartsdept.com/OEMParts/...7422052CX.html a little less from VW themselves.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  2. #20
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Posts
    783
    $357 shipped to my door for the 58k mile used rack and no core charge to worry about. Not bad!

    It might be possible to access the hard-to-reach top bolts of the rack by removing the rubber boot for the steering column into the firewall and accessing them through the driver's footwell. If so, engine may not need to come out, and that would save me so much time and aggravation. I'd like to avoid puilling the motor until the next t-belt is due in 18k miles, at which point I'll take care of all the known failure points with the engine out of the car, and maybe start converting to 6MT! Will start work sometime next week when all the parts arrive.
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
    2003 Audi RS 6 quattro 5AT - sold

  3. #21
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Roy, WA
    Posts
    3,303
    Don't forget to Locktite the bolts when you do re-install.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  4. #22
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Posts
    783
    Duly noted!
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
    2003 Audi RS 6 quattro 5AT - sold

  5. #23
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, again...
    Posts
    4,760
    I'll try and get the non-engine removal tips from my mech, in another state now...
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  6. #24
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Posts
    783
    I got it out!! No engines were removed in the process. By removing the two top bolts securing the rack, turning the rack in the tunnel slightly, and removing the rubber boot on the firewall, a friend was able to shine a light in through the driver's footwell on that hidden bolt and guide my ratchet and socket onto it from the driver's side wheelwell. There's only enough clearance to get about one or two clicks of the ratchet per turn (depends on the quality of the ratchet, too) so it's a very slow process, and once the bolt gets loose enough it will turn both ways, so I had to get my finger in there and get it out the last couple threads. Once everything is un-bolted the rack just needs to be snaked out through the driver's side wheelwell. With nearly all of the suspension removed from the car already, the rack removal itself took about two hours. I'm going to take this opportunity to clean and degrease the front wheelwells to get rid of 12 years of built-up grime before re-installing everything.

    The biggest question I have is: how important is that third bolt to the integrity of the steering rack? Do I reaaaally need to put it back in?
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
    2003 Audi RS 6 quattro 5AT - sold

  7. #25
    Registered User Other_Erik's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    852
    Quote Originally Posted by Turbowned View Post
    I got it out!! No engines were removed in the process. By removing the two top bolts securing the rack, turning the rack in the tunnel slightly, and removing the rubber boot on the firewall, a friend was able to shine a light in through the driver's footwell on that hidden bolt and guide my ratchet and socket onto it from the driver's side wheelwell. There's only enough clearance to get about one or two clicks of the ratchet per turn (depends on the quality of the ratchet, too) so it's a very slow process, and once the bolt gets loose enough it will turn both ways, so I had to get my finger in there and get it out the last couple threads. Once everything is un-bolted the rack just needs to be snaked out through the driver's side wheelwell. With nearly all of the suspension removed from the car already, the rack removal itself took about two hours. I'm going to take this opportunity to clean and degrease the front wheelwells to get rid of 12 years of built-up grime before re-installing everything.

    The biggest question I have is: how important is that third bolt to the integrity of the steering rack? Do I reaaaally need to put it back in?
    First, congrats on getting the rack out without engine pull! Very nice!

    Second, would you trust a wheel attached with only two bolts? Maybe take this opportunity to come up with a better way to re-attach the 3rd bolt?

    O_E
    #905530 - Brilliant Black on Ebony. Sorted, running strong, ready for a new owner.
    No, I am not the board admin - that's Erik (from Sweden), I'm Other_Erik (from the US)

  8. #26
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, again...
    Posts
    4,760
    Quote Originally Posted by Turbowned View Post
    I got it out!! No engines were removed in the process. By removing the two top bolts securing the rack, turning the rack in the tunnel slightly, and removing the rubber boot on the firewall, a friend was able to shine a light in through the driver's footwell on that hidden bolt and guide my ratchet and socket onto it from the driver's side wheelwell. There's only enough clearance to get about one or two clicks of the ratchet per turn (depends on the quality of the ratchet, too) so it's a very slow process, and once the bolt gets loose enough it will turn both ways, so I had to get my finger in there and get it out the last couple threads. Once everything is un-bolted the rack just needs to be snaked out through the driver's side wheelwell. With nearly all of the suspension removed from the car already, the rack removal itself took about two hours. I'm going to take this opportunity to clean and degrease the front wheelwells to get rid of 12 years of built-up grime before re-installing everything.

    The biggest question I have is: how important is that third bolt to the integrity of the steering rack? Do I reaaaally need to put it back in?
    Sweet! Glad to hear it. Sounds like how my mechanic described it...along with some cursing about how lucky I was that they did the job in 10 hours instead of the 30 book...good time to update bushings, brakes, lines and associated front end parts.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  9. #27
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Posts
    783
    Oh yes, I have already gotten all 8 front control arms, sway bar endlinks, Koni struts, and strut mounts. I might do wheel bearings while I'm in there. Eventually brake lines and a fluid flush.
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
    2003 Audi RS 6 quattro 5AT - sold

  10. #28
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Posts
    783
    I fiddled with the third bolt for about an hour last night; had a friend guide the bolt into its home using a magnet, then started turning it (or so I thought) with a wrench... until it fell out and I realized it wasn't actually threading all along. D'oh! What a PITA; I'll tackle it again this weekend. I know it's do-able, though. I just need a shorter 12pt socket than the one I have, and I think I can finagle it. Still less work than engine removal, LOL
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
    2003 Audi RS 6 quattro 5AT - sold

  11. #29
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Posts
    783
    Whew! Was able to get that pesky bolt into it's home and tightened down after messing with it for nearly an hour. I found that when I tightened the two top bolts it was misaligning the hole for the bottom bolt, so after loosening them I was able to get it threaded and tightened up. Now as soon as the tie rods, boots and fluid arrive I can get the rest of it together and test it out.
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
    2003 Audi RS 6 quattro 5AT - sold

  12. #30
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, again...
    Posts
    4,760
    Quote Originally Posted by Turbowned View Post
    Whew! Was able to get that pesky bolt into it's home and tightened down after messing with it for nearly an hour. I found that when I tightened the two top bolts it was misaligning the hole for the bottom bolt, so after loosening them I was able to get it threaded and tightened up. Now as soon as the tie rods, boots and fluid arrive I can get the rest of it together and test it out.
    Excellent! I'll have to add this to the maintenance section of my website. One more repair without the engine removal!
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  13. #31
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Posts
    783
    Got the lines hooked back up last night and assembled the front strut assemblies with the Koni struts and new upper control arms last night. The old control arm bushings were completely toast; I'm really excited to feel how the car drives with all new suspension components up front! Inner and outer tie rods, rack bellows and Audi PS fluid dropped at my house today so I hope to have everything buttoned up and get a fresh alignment by the weekend. *fingers crossed*

    This project has been taking extra time because A. I work too much and my garage isn't close to home, and B. because I'm taking my time cleaning and de-greasing everything as I go along. A lot of cruddy buildup occurred in the wheel wells and undercarriage over 12 years and 85,000 miles. Now the underside of the car looks *almost* as good as the shiny side!
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
    2003 Audi RS 6 quattro 5AT - sold

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •