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Thread: Stripping out the SAI system

  1. #1
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    Stripping out the SAI system

    Does anyone know what is involved in doing this?
    I have had a look at it and there seems to be a fair amount of pipework, valves etc. both at the front and rear of the engine with some of it looking a bit inaccessible.
    What all has to come out?

  2. #2
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Besides the removal you'll also need the sai block off plate and your tune updated to remove the cel that will show. I assume you need a new pump? Small air leaks causing a code should be cheap/easy to fix. Been done by a few here. Use Google and, "site:rs6.com sai delete".
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    Cheers mate,
    Will have a look.
    Basically i am doing it the other way round.
    I have decided to get a Viper ECU/TCU remap and i have asked Rich to delete the SAI.
    To me, the SAI is an added appendage that is not needed and at some point the pump may pack in and will have to be replaced which would tick me off when it not really needed.
    I like things simple so if i can get rid without too much hassle then it makes sense to me - one less thing to go wrong!

  4. #4
    Registered User mdegracia's Avatar
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    Block off plates are not needed. Once TH Pump Is Removed AND Coded out THE kombi Valves will not actuate and will effectively stay closed.
    03 RS6 Daytona Grey - EFI Express - 01e - SRM K24 - Aquamist - 495whp/580ft-lbs

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    I assume the kombi valves are the silver metal valves each side at the back of the engine as opposed to the black plastic ones at the front of the engine?
    If i don't strip it out i am worried one of the many pipes develops a leak and the engine draws in air and runs lean.
    With the SAI coded out i assume it wouldn't show a fault code and i would be in trouble.

  6. #6
    Registered User mdegracia's Avatar
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    Once it is coded out, you can remove the pump and disconnect the vacuum lines to the valves. I was able to take the cross over pipe out too, but not the valves with the motor in the car.
    03 RS6 Daytona Grey - EFI Express - 01e - SRM K24 - Aquamist - 495whp/580ft-lbs

  7. #7
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    I took everything out while the engine was fully installed, but the valve covers were off. In fact the valve covers were what prompted me to remove the SAI system, because the passenger side cover is nearly impossible to remove and replace with the kombivalve in the way. That said, even with the valve covers off it was a pain, but nowhere near impossible. I also installed the block off plates from 034 Motorsports. If you have access to a milling machine they would be very easy to make using the removed parts as a template, but I didn't at the time..

    Once you you have it off, you can install a remote mounted oil filter canister ala BMW E39, see my thread about that if you're interested
    RS6 #1, 01E, 2.5" straight pipes, AMD Stage 1 6MT tune, 460awhp/530awtq on AMD's Mustang dyno. TOTALLED.. RS6 #2, Ebony Black Pearl on black/silver combination with carbon, up and running with 6 gears and AMD tune.

  8. #8
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MGtrophy View Post
    Does anyone know what is involved in doing this?
    I have had a look at it and there seems to be a fair amount of pipework, valves etc. both at the front and rear of the engine with some of it looking a bit inaccessible.
    What all has to come out?
    The system can be easily 'decommisioned' as described in posts above. That involves disconnecting and removing the SAI pump, and disconnecting the small vacuum lines. This leaves all the clutter on the back side of the engine still though where the valve canisters, brackets, and cross hoses are. Many people that elect to remove the SAI do so in order to get rid of the clutter - not the functionality. You cannot 'easily' remove these two items from the back of the cylinder heads with the engine in place - in fact I personally don't think you can at all, but I guess if you fuss enough with something you might figure out a way to do it). Very difficult to get to the 4mm allen head fasteners. You do require block-off plates after removing the valves. They are simple to fabricate out of aluminum bar with an hour of time in your garage and cold beer keeping you company.... For the vacuum lines, you simply take the end of the hose that would have fed the one valve and reroute it to the other end of the Y fitting after removing the vacuum line feeding the other valve. The void left in the engine compartment is a great location to put a remote oil filter housing or tank for water/meth injection or aquamist systems.

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    Last edited by Bigglezworth; January 29th, 2015 at 02:33.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

  9. #9
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    For the $35 I would just do the Blockoff plates from 034, not worth my time to fabricate them for that price.
    http://store.034motorsport.com/sai-b...ve-40v-v8.html as mentioned, difficult to do with the engine in (valve removal). Don't worry about lean if you decide to leave the valves in as they only feed air into the exhaust ports so no chance of the engine running lean.
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  10. #10
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    Cheers guys, will give it a serious look at the weekend. If it is that difficult to do with the engine in i will wait until the motor has to come out which it undoubtedly will at some point!

  11. #11
    Registered User ttboost's Avatar
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    Easy mod. You should remove everything, including the combi valves off the back of the heads. I think it can be done with engine in the car, which isn't true of most things. Won't be easy or fun, but I think it can be done.I made a few sets of the block-off plates when I did mine...they are around here somewhere...

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