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Thread: Doing 75000 service now. Need help with crank lock tool installation.

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    Doing 75000 service now. Need help with crank lock tool installation.

    I am through the teardown phase of my timing job, and the rest of the 75000 service. I am ready to pull the belt and related hardware off, but I cannot find where to install the tool to lock the crank. The Bentley's manual diagrams are very V6-centric, and I find lots of conflicting information about its location on the V8 online.

    I have put substantially more time into looking for answers than into the entire project excluding. Hoping to figure this out soon.

    Stuck until then, though continuing research.

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    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    There is a bolt (M8 I think w/13mm head) just above the left engine mount and a couple of inches above the oil pan level that you remove and insert the crank holding bolt there. It is a fine thread and can be a little tough to get started so make sure you don't cross thread it.
    Last edited by hahnmgh63; September 28th, 2014 at 02:41.
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    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    After my experience I'd add cam adjusters to the list. Wonder when they are recommended to be replaced, seems they go around 100-150k.
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    Quote Originally Posted by lswing View Post
    After my experience I'd add cam adjusters to the list. Wonder when they are recommended to be replaced, seems they go around 100-150k.

    Maybe I will do them at 110 or 115 or whatever the next big service is in my book. At bthe rate I plan to drive this car, it will be 5-6 years or so.

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    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zorb View Post
    Maybe I will do them at 110 or 115 or whatever the next big service is in my book. At bthe rate I plan to drive this car, it will be 5-6 years or so.
    Sounds about right. My fear is the 10 year old plastic part soaking in oil is getting weak now, wondering if we'll see more failures. Basically the part could last 150k in 7 years, but maybe it's time has come at 10 years with around 100k...
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    Quote Originally Posted by hahnmgh63 View Post
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Name:	Crank holding tool.jpg 
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    There is a bolt (M8 I think w/13mm head) just above the left engine mount and a couple of inches above the oil pan level that you remove and insert the crank holding bolt there. It is a fine thread and can be a little tough to get started so make sure you don't cross thread it.
    +1 That's it..make sure it is in position to accept the crank lock.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hahnmgh63 View Post
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    There is a bolt (M8 I think w/13mm head) just above the left engine mount and a couple of inches above the oil pan level that you remove and insert the crank holding bolt there. It is a fine thread and can be a little tough to get started so make sure you don't cross thread it.
    You're sure this bolt has a hex head and not allen? The reason I am asking is that I found an allen head bolt that seems to be in that location, and has its own little access hole in the inside of the fender. You can get it with a 24" extension. It looks like it has a 13mm or so hex on it too, but I can't get a socket on it for some reason, seems just a bit obstructed at one side. This bolt is very tight and I cannot get it to move at all with all the force I can apply with a ratchet. I don't particularly want to put a breaker bar on it, since a rounded bolt would necessitate removing the engine.

    Is there anything else identifying about this bolt? Any tag on it or identifying color perhaps?

    I don't know how you would put the crank lock tool where an M8 bolt came from, since it's about 13mm in diameter at the threaded section.

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    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Attachment 15556
    Your right on both accounts. Did a timing belt on my girlfriends A8 4.2 this summer and it was a hex head. I just checked the RS6 and it is an Allen. They tend to be very tight so I used a quality Snapon socket and used a touch of Anti-seize when I put it back in since it's steel in Aluminum. Here is a pic.
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    Quote Originally Posted by hahnmgh63 View Post
    Attachment 15556
    Your right on both accounts. Did a timing belt on my girlfriends A8 4.2 this summer and it was a hex head. I just checked the RS6 and it is an Allen. They tend to be very tight so I used a quality Snapon socket and used a touch of Anti-seize when I put it back in since it's steel in Aluminum. Here is a pic.
    That's the one I found. I'll try to figure it out now.

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    Ok, timing belt is off. Almost feels like a waste. Belt is factory VW/Audi-labeled, made by Dayco in Italy. It looks absolutely perfect, tension was good, and all else seemed really nice. If 35 and 40000 miles is the factory spec for replacement, I think VW must be worried about heat or something.

    Would have photo documented everything, but didn't think to until now.

    Now I will make some coffee for my trip to Meijer to get some distilled water (the one thing I forgot to buy), and while that's in the works, take the rest of this thing apart.

  11. #11
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Yea, it is kind of ridiculous but I've never heard a story of a Belt failing on the RS6 but I have heard of a roller going bad. My girlfriends A8 and most of the 40V 4.2 motors take the exact same belt and use most of the same rollers & tensioner as the RS6 but they have a 75K change interval. I'd feel pretty safe going a few miles extra. My girlfriends A8 had 81K on it when I did hers and it still looked good and the tensioners seemed pretty tight.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
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    Well, I also recently learned the cost of a replacement short block and heads from my service rep at the local Audi dealer... $37000 installed. This came up in conversation about the rarity of these cars, things that happen to them, including the example of an unfortunate water related incident that actually happened to one of our members here (that I do not personally know) who happens to be somewhat local to me. Apparently his car was brought in at that dealer (Audi of Rochester Hills) or one related, and that was the approximate estimate off the top of the service guy's head.

    I figure that it's cheap insurance to keep it up right.

    Similarly, extending your turbo life by changing oil at 5000 instead of 10000 seems easy enough. Normally I am not a proponent of short oil changes, generally running Mobil 1 on my other cars that do not have oil life monitoring at 10000 mile intervals. My 1999 GM van passed every oil analysis with flying colors for over 200000 miles on that schedule. My 1998 Cadillac Eldorado (DD) has 246000 miles and I just follow the GM oil life program, which is dynamic between 2000 and 12000 miles depending on conditions, with mobil 1 5w40.
    Last edited by Zorb; September 29th, 2014 at 10:14.

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    That was my car...it is getting rebuilt by someone local (east Michigan). The rebuilder is not on here. I figured you were from Michigan the minute you said "Meijer" instead of store or grocery store.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmb408 View Post
    That was my car...it is getting rebuilt by someone local (east Michigan). The rebuilder is not on here. I figured you were from Michigan the minute you said "Meijer" instead of store or grocery store.
    One thing to miss about MI... Meijer thrifty acres

    Of course, here on the east coast, we get Big Lots.

    Still very much missing the B&M equivalent of NewEgg, can't remember the name off the top of my head. Pretty much California-only, though :|

    Yep, I've moved around a bit in my time
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmb408 View Post
    That was my car...it is getting rebuilt by someone local (east Michigan). The rebuilder is not on here. I figured you were from Michigan the minute you said "Meijer" instead of store or grocery store.
    Yeah. All I knew were you were Metro Detroit area and he knew what I was talking about. The dealer rep seemed to think it could be rebuilt affordably, but said that the insurance company didn't want to take the risk.

    I am in Orion Township BTW.

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