Where to get non drilled rotors?

[4everRS]

I don't need these for a while, but while I was thinking about it I thought I would bring it up.

I've been very impressed with the frozen rotors treatment I have in my rotors. I'm less impressed with the drilled holes. I did my 2nd track day of the year today and the holes fill up with pad material, and are generally worthless. This also makes them wear goofy.

So I would like a set of blanks. No holes. I would have frozen do their cryo treatment, but they will also drill, slot, ect if you want. I would have them slotted. I don't need them for quite a while yet, but I'm interested in where to source them when I do.

Does anyone have the past numbers?

[Bigglezworth]

Go to your locak VW dealer and purchase rotors from a Phaeton. Same fit, but without the holes.

[4everRS]

Huh. Are they designed like ours with the aluminum hats?

[hahnmgh63]

1. front cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 301 E
4B3 615 302 A

front non cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 301 B
4B3 615 302

rear cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 601 C
4B3 615 602 A

rear non cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 601 B
4B3 615 602

front pads
4B3 698 151 A

rear pads
4B3 698 451

3D0 615 301 N Phaeton 365x34 front disc

4E0 615 601 L Phaeton rear disc

[4everRS]

So the past numbers under each rotor are right and left sides right?

[G2]

The drilled holes are doing their job. Sounds like the brake pads aren't, so well....admittedly the holes in these rotors are quite small.

[Bigglezworth]

Huh. Are they designed like ours with the aluminum hats?

Yes. Just not drilled.

[4everRS]

Yes. Just not drilled.

you wouldn't happen to have a part number would you?

[4everRS]

Tim,

I can't seem to verify that the US phaetons got the 8 pot calipers. When I search some random parts sites I come up with this stuff:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...ors/ES1831908/

I

[repda503]

rear non cross drilled rotor:
4B3 615 602

This right side rotor is currently discounted to $99 on vwparts.com if that helps with your decision.

[4everRS]

rear non cross drilled rotor:
4B3 615 602

This right side rotor is currently discounted to $99 on vwparts.com if that helps with your decision.

This is for the phaeton I assume? Looks like you need to sign up to have access to that site.

[hahnmgh63]

Here is the two piece Phaeton rotor. It has an aluminum hat but isn't the SHW design.
http://www.oemplus.com/floating-brak...w12-p-985.html

[repda503]

This is for the phaeton I assume? Looks like you need to sign up to have access to that site.

I never signed up for anything. Just go to the site and click on the outlet center tab. Then search for rs6 parts. or you can just get it from ECS at below link:
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES372060/

[lswing]

The drilled holes are doing their job. Sounds like the brake pads aren't, so well....admittedly the holes in these rotors are quite small.

Yep, thought that's what I've read for the purpose of holes. They catch loose pad debris, keep pads even? The fins between each side of the rotor are largely responsible for cooling.

Edit; Just go around rotors with thin wire and pop debris out after runs?

I'm still tempted by the JHM's, slotted for more debris catching and bigger fins for cooling. We've talked about these warping for some, but never much specific info? Rarely do we press our cars that much.

Edit 2; who has frozen treated the JHM's? That might be the trick...

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/front-rotorspair-jhm-piece-lightweight-for-c5-rs6-p-485.html

[alrightroad]

Yeah, I'm curious about the JHM ones and who has seen true warping on these rings.

[audiprotn]

1. front cross drilled rotor
rear non cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 601 B
4B3 615 602

4E0 615 601 L Phaeton rear disc

Has anyone fitted these rotors?

My pads are worn out and started " eating" my rotors, thinking about going with these http://www.ecstuning.com/ES372060/

Thanks

[G2]

Yep, thought that's what I've read for the purpose of holes. They catch loose pad debris, keep pads even? The fins between each side of the rotor are largely responsible for cooling.

Edit; Just go around rotors with thin wire and pop debris out after runs?

I'm still tempted by the JHM's, slotted for more debris catching and bigger fins for cooling. We've talked about these warping for some, but never much specific info? Rarely do we press our cars that much.

Edit 2; who has frozen treated the JHM's? That might be the trick...

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/front-rotorspair-jhm-piece-lightweight-for-c5-rs6-p-485.html

I notice on Porsches that the holes are bigger with more of them. And don't tend to plug up. But yes, the junk can be blow or poked out. I've done it a few times so far. Annoying...

Warped rotors do happen. But I think the pad is largely responsible. Personal experience, even from street driving.

[G2]

-- the JHM rotors make me wonder.

Rotor Weight: Stock = 27.5lbs(each), JHM = 21lbs(each) - 24% LIGHTER, 6.5lbs less each
-Rotor Cooling Air-gap: Stock = 13mm(.512"), JHM = 18.5mm(.728") - LARGER for better cooling
-Rotor Cooling Center Fin Design: Stock = Straight Fin, JHM = Airfoil - MORE EFFICIENT for better cooling

The Techy car guy, tech, mech, ex-engineer puts on this thinking cap:

1. Lighter? So less thermal mass is good for these cars? hmmm . Bet the rotors get hotter faster. Might even effect what pads are needed.

2. Less vanes is better? Would that idea work well on a radiator for example? No...

3. The OE design is directional. With curved vanes to expel hot air.

3a. Did they brake dyno test those rotors to see how they hold up compared to OE. (see youtube if needed)

Those fasteners look like the bolts used to hold brakes on a mountainbike (i question the grade, but maybe it was just for the photo?)

Not tearing them "apart" but just some basic thoughts here. I'm sure they work great. We all use these cars differently and our MPG may vary

Cryogenic treatment seems almost needed on these cars. Any input anyone on who can do it on the west coast?

I better go fix some cars now!