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Thread: Where to get non drilled rotors?

  1. #19
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by G2 View Post
    I notice on Porsches that the holes are bigger with more of them. And don't tend to plug up. But yes, the junk can be blow or poked out. I've done it a few times so far. Annoying...

    Warped rotors do happen. But I think the pad is largely responsible. Personal experience, even from street driving.
    Living in a part of the world with salt, snow, rain, slush, etc., I experience build-up of rust/pad debris inside the holes all the time. I have needed to use a drill to remove it all as it becomes so rigid. As for warping, it's a misconception that rotors warp. As a general rule, the pulsing sensation you get on a pedal is in fact the pads grabbing with different force where there is a different 'bedding' of pad material that has transfered to the rotor. Introduce water/rusting/sitting, and this becomes more prominent. Warping of rotors really only occurs when you heat up rotors and don't permit them an opportunity to ventilate (i.e. doing a bunch of hot laps, entering the pits, and then pulling your parking brake....).
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  2. #20
    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by G2 View Post
    Cryogenic treatment seems almost needed on these cars. Any input anyone on who can do it on the west coast?
    Frozen Rotors in MN or WI.

    Plan it out though:
    If you purchase thru "Miramar" Audi (can't remember their online name), see if you can save on the shipping so they are direct shipped to Frozen.
    If you purchase OEM and ship them yourself, it was $60 each way from 91915 (ADD INSURANCE!!!! kinda hard to lose 52lb of rotors but "S" happens).
    The rotors needed to be onsite before Thursday, so they can get their weekend batch of items to freeze all organized.
    They dip/undip the items to be frozen for 60 hours (all weekend).
    Then ship out on either that Monday or Tuesday.

    The color is slightly more blue upon return.

    IIRC, total time was 2 weeks round trip to get it set up and about $200

    Or just purchase Frozen Rotors from Frozen Rotors...
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  3. #21
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    It's easy to clean the holes on the outside of the rotors but the holed on the inside (inside half of the vented portion) don't match up with the outer holes. You have to get at these from the inside and if you have the stock backing plates they are in the way. With the Phaeton cooling ducts upgrade you can remove the ducts and clean the inside holes.
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  4. #22
    Registered User G2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigglezworth View Post
    Living in a part of the world with salt, snow, rain, slush, etc., I experience build-up of rust/pad debris inside the holes all the time. I have needed to use a drill to remove it all as it becomes so rigid. As for warping, it's a misconception that rotors warp. As a general rule, the pulsing sensation you get on a pedal is in fact the pads grabbing with different force where there is a different 'bedding' of pad material that has transfered to the rotor. Introduce water/rusting/sitting, and this becomes more prominent. Warping of rotors really only occurs when you heat up rotors and don't permit them an opportunity to ventilate (i.e. doing a bunch of hot laps, entering the pits, and then pulling your parking brake....).
    I"ve also drilled my drilled rotors out to unplug them. Egads.
    -- maybe I'll have them drilled larger......hmmmm

    I agree about the pad transfer issue that can mimic "warped rotor syndrome". But as a GR (General Rule), also based on experience (thousands of brake rotors kinda experience), rotors due indeed warp. Ammco answered that call at least 40+ years ago with their industry standard brake lathe. I've spent far too many hours manning one of these relics-- and wished I could afford one (great for drum brakes too).

    Like mentioned, if the brakes are overheated, it will warp. I rinsed off my favorite hot griddle in cold water and the dang thing twisted about 1/4" inch. Same deal with brakes.

    For anyone that's used a lathe, will notice that each face of the rotor has it's own surface variance. The carbide blade/tip will contact the high spot. These areas are clocked differently-- one might be High at 9am, while the other side might be High at 3pm (okay, 4:20Pm for some!). A new rotor is typically made within 0.001" parallel. Most max specs are 0.002" before calling for machining/turning of the rotor face. Hence, the rotors will grab the high spots and cause pulsations. Once removed, after machining, the brakes are again smooth. Take a good pair of mics and measure before and after a rotor is machined. It's surprising. This is the main reason why 2 pc. rotors are made (there is a 2nd and 3rd reason).

    In the last 10yrs I've argued against another "culprit" that can supposedly cause a similar issue: worn wheel bearings. Another topic full of holes. The brake rotor OEM's like to blame your poor worn out bearings for causing the problem. Also by-and-large Not True. I can point fingers but.....won't....for now.
    Cheers, G2/Gary
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  5. #23
    Registered User G2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben916 View Post
    Frozen Rotors in MN or WI.

    Plan it out though:
    If you purchase thru "Miramar" Audi (can't remember their online name), see if you can save on the shipping so they are direct shipped to Frozen.
    If you purchase OEM and ship them yourself, it was $60 each way from 91915 (ADD INSURANCE!!!! kinda hard to lose 52lb of rotors but "S" happens).
    The rotors needed to be onsite before Thursday, so they can get their weekend batch of items to freeze all organized.
    They dip/undip the items to be frozen for 60 hours (all weekend).
    Then ship out on either that Monday or Tuesday.

    The color is slightly more blue upon return.

    IIRC, total time was 2 weeks round trip to get it set up and about $200

    Or just purchase Frozen Rotors from Frozen Rotors...
    Thanks for all the info Ben.

    I buy direct with my wholesale account thru the largest Euro parts importers in North America. I also have wholesale shipping.
    Totally agreed about Superman Shipping problems. "S", right?.

    Hope i can find someone west-side to do the treatment. Planning on a trackday and don't wan to trash the new OEM rotors and race pads.
    == BTW, NA AudiClub is renting out PIR raceway (Portland OR) November 11/1-2. Hope to at least make that....anyone here a member?
    Cheers, G2/Gary
    C5-RS6/KWV3/Revo/H20 Inj./Custom BBK/Custom cooling/CNC arms \ VW Touareg V10 \ B7A4 2.0T Avant \ Mk1 Callaway Scirocco \ audirs6parts@gmail.com / www.oilpro.myamsoil.com

  6. #24
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by G2 View Post
    Thanks for all the info Ben.

    I buy direct with my wholesale account thru the largest Euro parts importers in North America. I also have wholesale shipping.
    So what is the price you get rotors for?
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  7. #25
    Registered User G2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4everRS View Post
    So what is the price you get rotors for?
    Guess the notifications aren't coming in, sorry. Last I checked it was right about $750 for the front OEM pair. Zimmerman replica's are a bit less.
    Cheers, G2/Gary
    C5-RS6/KWV3/Revo/H20 Inj./Custom BBK/Custom cooling/CNC arms \ VW Touareg V10 \ B7A4 2.0T Avant \ Mk1 Callaway Scirocco \ audirs6parts@gmail.com / www.oilpro.myamsoil.com

  8. #26
    Registered User audiprotn's Avatar
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    Update:
    Received 4B3 615 602 rotors. Fit perfectly. $75 each.

  9. #27
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audiprotn View Post
    Update:
    Received 4B3 615 602 rotors. Fit perfectly. $75 each.
    Are these rotors directional?

    Where did you order from?
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  10. #28
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    The Catalog shows a different left & right part number, even for the non-drilled rotors. Are you using two right side rotors on the rear? They are directional. Left side is 4B3615601B.
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  11. #29
    Registered User audiprotn's Avatar
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    For example, http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/pro...4B3615602.html does not say anything about being different for each side.
    I got it from http://www.vwpartsdept.com/OEMParts/...4B3615602.html
    They originally sent two wrong rotors, but after I called them they were nice enough to overnight them.

    I dont think these are directional.

  12. #30
    Registered User audiprotn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hahnmgh63 View Post
    4B3615601B
    This is what they sent me originally, part number was 4B3615601 ( without B), rotors were about 265mm in diameter

  13. #31
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Do the Rotors you are using have an arrow on the outside showing rotational direction?
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  14. #32
    Registered User audiprotn's Avatar
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    Honestly I did not pay attention, did not even cross my mind. But one of them almost fell on my foot, and I don't remember seeing any arrows.

  15. #33
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audiprotn View Post
    For example, http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/pro...4B3615602.html does not say anything about being different for each side.
    I got it from http://www.vwpartsdept.com/OEMParts/...4B3615602.html
    They originally sent two wrong rotors, but after I called them they were nice enough to overnight them.

    I dont think these are directional.
    The first link from Jim Ellis audi says it's for the right.

    You bought 2 rh rotors. The question is, does it matter?
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  16. #34
    Registered User audiprotn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4everRS View Post
    The first link from Jim Ellis audi says it's for the right.

    You bought 2 rh rotors. The question is, does it matter?
    Hm, Interesting haha, part guy at the store did measure them prior to shipping out and did not say anything about them being different, especially after they sent me the wrong ones at first.
    Also mechanic I used did not say a word.

  17. #35
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audiprotn View Post
    Hm, Interesting haha, part guy at the store did measure them prior to shipping out and did not say anything about them being different, especially after they sent me the wrong ones at first.
    Also mechanic I used did not say a word.
    Would you be willing to take a look to see if there are directional arrows on these rotors? The arrows would be on the aluminum hat. You may need a flashlight to look through the wheel spokes.
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  18. #36
    Registered User audiprotn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4everRS View Post
    Would you be willing to take a look to see if there are directional arrows on these rotors? The arrows would be on the aluminum hat. You may need a flashlight to look through the wheel spokes.
    Just did, they are indeed directional.
    Now it makes me wonder if it's that critical, brakes feel just fine.
    I understand the difference if they were let's say slotted or drilled, but since they are "plain", they look identical.

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