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Thread: Transmission fluid/issues..?

  1. #19
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TozoM8 View Post
    The problem was the missing O-ring. I would never trade the shaeffer's for the vw/audi fluid. Synthetic>mineral.
    Just for conversations sake, could there potentially be more clutch slip with synthetic than with mineral?
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  2. #20
    Registered User MaxRS6's Avatar
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    ^517 recommends the mineral when I spoke with Sam last June about the fluid. I don't know anything and am just parroting his reply.
    210K miles rolled

  3. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4everRS View Post
    Just for conversations sake, could there potentially be more clutch slip with synthetic than with mineral?
    Interesting that you bring that up, I had wondered the same thing, and that is one of the reasons I decided to switch back to the OE fluid (besides getting a more complete fluid change).

    It turns out that my transmission is not actually back to 100%... I functions great except for one thing: under hard acceleration, the 1st-to-2nd shift is screwy. It pulls hard through 1st, starts to shift normally and bring the RPM's down as it goes into 2nd, and then it's like the TC gives up and the RPM's jump back up to redline and it feels like the car is just coasting for a bit, then the TC starts to grab again and it lurches into 2nd, not super hard but definitely harder than it should. I'm going to check the fluid level later today, but I'm very sure that there's the right amount of fluid in there. I'll report back once I know if the level is my issue..

    For the record, it shifts great from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, and 4th to 5th under hard throttle.
    RS6 #1, 01E, 2.5" straight pipes, AMD Stage 1 6MT tune, 460awhp/530awtq on AMD's Mustang dyno. TOTALLED.. RS6 #2, Ebony Black Pearl on black/silver combination with carbon, up and running with 6 gears and AMD tune.

  4. #22
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    ^^^Sounds like your clutches are slipping with the extra RPM and Torque from 1-2?....with a tune and that many miles it's just a matter of time, might still last a while if not flogged too much.

    You can log the TC if you have the software, shows open, working, and lock status. Helpful in diagnosing if that's the case. Either way, if you need to fix a slipping TC you're going to want to rebuild and replace the trans at that point.
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  5. #23
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    Yep, that's what I was thinking too, except that it was still working great before replacing the fluid.. But I suppose like you say it's always just a matter of time. It still drives great under all other conditions so it's not the end of the world for me. I may just start looking into getting some 01E parts..
    RS6 #1, 01E, 2.5" straight pipes, AMD Stage 1 6MT tune, 460awhp/530awtq on AMD's Mustang dyno. TOTALLED.. RS6 #2, Ebony Black Pearl on black/silver combination with carbon, up and running with 6 gears and AMD tune.

  6. #24
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P1054 View Post
    It pulls hard through 1st, starts to shift normally and bring the RPM's down as it goes into 2nd, and then it's like the TC gives up and the RPM's jump back up to redline and it feels like the car is just coasting for a bit, then the TC starts to grab again and it lurches into 2nd
    What you describe has nothing to do with the TQ. I encourage you and anyone reading this tread to take a 1/2 hr out of their day and head to YouTube and look up some videos describing the basics of what a TQ does - including what a lock-up convertor does. You will quickly set aside many misconceptions people believe are occuring with their rides as being TQ related concerns.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

  7. #25
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    Congrats! I used Valvoline Max Life on my first fill as I didn't want to blow a lot of $ on ZF fluid and find out the trans was toast. 3000 miles of flogging and it is doing fine.

  8. #26
    Registered User TozoM8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P1054 View Post
    Interesting that you bring that up, I had wondered the same thing, and that is one of the reasons I decided to switch back to the OE fluid (besides getting a more complete fluid change).

    It turns out that my transmission is not actually back to 100%... I functions great except for one thing: under hard acceleration, the 1st-to-2nd shift is screwy. It pulls hard through 1st, starts to shift normally and bring the RPM's down as it goes into 2nd, and then it's like the TC gives up and the RPM's jump back up to redline and it feels like the car is just coasting for a bit, then the TC starts to grab again and it lurches into 2nd, not super hard but definitely harder than it should. I'm going to check the fluid level later today, but I'm very sure that there's the right amount of fluid in there. I'll report back once I know if the level is my issue..

    For the record, it shifts great from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, and 4th to 5th under hard throttle.
    Like the others said, it is not the TC. If it was the TC, it would do it in higher gears more. One you pass the 1800 stall speed it locks up. Your second gear is going.
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  9. #27
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    +1

    Got a case of beer that says it happens when it is hot....and if you have it in first, brake on, and run the revs up it will slip, slam, then go to limp mode with an incorrect gear ratio code. Goodbye "A" clutch....

  10. #28
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Randy, did he recommend and specific brand? Or give any other comment on why mineral?

    Quote Originally Posted by MaxRS6 View Post
    ^517 recommends the mineral when I spoke with Sam last June about the fluid. I don't know anything and am just parroting his reply.
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  11. #29
    Registered User MaxRS6's Avatar
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    ^Sam told me to stick with the OEM when I inquired about using other brands. I don't recall his reasoning. Since it was going to be under his warranty- I went with his recommendation. This transmission only has about 12K miles on it. I plan on doing a flush in another few thousand miles and check the fluid. It has been run a bit..;0
    210K miles rolled

  12. #30
    Registered User MaxRS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 905084 View Post
    ... slam, then go to limp mode with an incorrect gear ratio code. Goodbye "A" clutch....
    Ugggghhhhh- I hate it when that happens. That lovin feeling disappears and somehow magically comes back when it gets put back together. However; does give quality time to do some cleaning...

    210K miles rolled

  13. #31
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiopom View Post
    The lunch was spectacular and served by their full-time maid.
    Erik, please ban the spammer....stop posting yer crap!
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  14. #32
    Registered User mik15's Avatar
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    P1054 - i don't really think is the TC nor the clutches, exactly the same was observed on Skiper's RS6, he also started a thread here regarding this issue and until today no conclusion was ever drawn. Unless you rev it up to the red the gearbox changes alright from 1st to 2nd, right? As Tozo also said and so have others on the over the pond forum, this behavior seems to be caused by a loss of pressure, could be a cracked pipe or the VB, but as long as you stay away from red lining on the first gear i am pretty sure the gearbox will be just fine, at least Skiper's still is today with no other problems or this initial problem getting any worse.

    His GB has an ACE TC and it was rebuilt around 70k miles, it is now at 140k miles, and no DTC's.
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  15. #33
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    To all who have responded - thank you for your input! I did some research on automatic transmissions in general and torque converters in particular and now have a much better understanding of how they function.

    mik15 - thank you for that information. That is exactly what my transmission is doing. Everything works perfectly fine except shifting from first to second when I give it enough throttle to rev over 5k in drive (not sport). Under less throttle, the shift from first to second is perfectly fine. So aside from suspecting that a loss of fluid pressure is the culprit, no more specific cause was ever determined on Skiper's transmission?
    RS6 #1, 01E, 2.5" straight pipes, AMD Stage 1 6MT tune, 460awhp/530awtq on AMD's Mustang dyno. TOTALLED.. RS6 #2, Ebony Black Pearl on black/silver combination with carbon, up and running with 6 gears and AMD tune.

  16. #34
    Registered User mik15's Avatar
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    we didn't go any further, next step was to replace the VB as we have a spare gearbox, but meanwhile Skiper sold the car so we didn't get to that part. The new owner that bought it keeps in touch with us, as a matter of fact i spoke with him a couple of hours ago, so far all good with the gearbox and the car drives the same with no worsening of the aforementioned problem, but he isn't too bothered either as he rarely revs it up so high, it's his daily drive.
    Ex.: 2004 Audi RS6 C5 ABT, Milltek non-resonated, 19" RS4 B7 rims, RNS-E - SOLD
    2004 AUdi RS6 C5, SE exhaust, RNS-E, 19' original rims - SOLD
    Now :2009 Audi RS6 C6 - stock yet pretty fast

  17. #35
    Registered User G2's Avatar
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    I use Amsoil ATF. On-line retail is $11.50 p/qt. Meets Audi/VW and most Euro car specs. (if interested: www.oiloregon.com; ships from nearest warehouse)

    Yes, changing old fluid with new can cause transmission slippage issues. Normally happens to very worn trans with high miles.

    Transmissions should always have a complete fluid flush performed. Otherwise the new fluid is instantly contaminated. And the trans still has debris in it. The RS6 trans will take about 16-18qts to fully flush out all contamination. (a recent 5HP19 needed 16qts for a 9.5qt dry fill spec).

    OE ATF fluid is great for meeting CAFE specs, but isn't adequate for older cars driven hard.....but for a short time. I get to see the results on a regular basis (thankfully not my cars).
    Cheers, G2/Gary
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