Aux Radiator Delete, Engine still in... Need Info.

[s8prtotype]

Let me know how you guys feel about this, We simply looked at the system and decided to re-use the 1 way coolant valve and route it towards the lower pipe you're supposed to "cap" because that back pipe isn't coming out unless the motor is pulled...

This is how we did it...



Didn't want coolant just sitting in that one pipe so I guess it can still flow if it wants too?

Everything else heating up your intercoolers you just remove...





Even though you can only see a little of this once back together I still love powdercoated parts and cleanliness





She fired up, MUCH better than it was even after redoing the tensioners, didn't even chain rattle and only had a few hiccups until the oil actually pressurized them, it didn't last very long at all and it was shorter than when it was actually acting up before hand, seemed normal after that much work.

The real test comes when I fire it up tomorrow when its cold. Hope she's good... only other thing it could be is the crappy plastic part under the intake manifold.

When the last guys did the timing i'm not so sure they got it spot on, or the shittyist cheapest dayco belt you can buy streched a little, drivers side intake cam wasn't perfectly lined up?

Gates racing belt isn't stretching tho

Let me know your thoughts!

[Bigglezworth]

Old news. See Post #30 on this thread

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/26...+cover+gaskets

[DHall1]

Could you bypass the aux radiators in this manner and leave them installed?

[s8prtotype]

Old news. See Post #30 on this thread

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/26...+cover+gaskets

Awesome, hard to search for a post like that... Great minds think alike

The thing is, I put the valve going the other way... so this is what i was wondering really, does it really matter?

[Bigglezworth]

Could you bypass the aux radiators in this manner and leave them installed?

Absolutlely. The back-flow valve keeps the boiling hot water exiting from the water pump/T-stat from flowing directly in to the coolant overflow resevoir without being subjected to some form of air cooling. If you simply by pass without having the back-flow valve in place, you will quickly overheat the engine.

Awesome, hard to search for a post like that... Great minds think alike

The thing is, I put the valve going the other way... so this is what i was wondering really, does it really matter?

It does matter yes. You can't push hot fluid that has not been cooled by a radiator (be it the aux or main rad) back in to the coolant resevoir. You're going to overhead your engine if you.

[s8prtotype]

Could you bypass the aux radiators in this manner and leave them installed?

They would be completely bypassed by hooking that hose up, but the piping mess left over is going to bug you.

But, its not hard to remove the front bumper and wheel well plastic the get them out... the hose that runs across the bottom I simply cut on both sides as it's stuck up in there with the radiator.

The upper pipe is easy, but i'm not sure if the intercoolers will lift up without it in service position, you could remove most of the hoses and leave the rad's attached to the intercoolers so you dont lose your rear ducting, with just the front bumper removed.

[s8prtotype]

Absolutlely. The back-flow valve keeps the boiling hot water exiting from the water pump/T-stat from flowing directly in to the coolant overflow resevoir without being subjected to some form of air cooling. If you simply by pass without having the back-flow valve in place, you will quickly overheat the engine.


It does matter yes. You can't push hot fluid that has not been cooled by a radiator (be it the aux or main rad) back in to the coolant resevoir. You're going to overhead your engine if you.

That's what I was thinking, so I installed the valve so coolant isn't going into the left over silver pipe from the upper radiator fitting, is it vice versa?

[Bigglezworth]

Blow and suck on the valve to confirm direction (should be noted with an arrow on the valve also). Then install so that fluid STOPS moving in direction noted. You cannot dump boiling hot water that hasn't been subject to cooling back in to the resevoir. The back-check valve acts effectively as a permanent stop and ensures all hot fluid passes through the radiator first.

[s8prtotype]

Ok, we did that. Mine is installed correctly, nothing was flowing back into the tank either. Thanks for clarifying.

Heading over to vagcom it in a few hours

[DHall1]

Thanks

Here is the deal. I want to bypass in the AZ winter months...then connect in hot desert AZ months.


If/when we go back to the mtns or Oregon...out they come for good

They would be completely bypassed by hooking that hose up, but the piping mess left over is going to bug you.

But, its not hard to remove the front bumper and wheel well plastic the get them out... the hose that runs across the bottom I simply cut on both sides as it's stuck up in there with the radiator.

The upper pipe is easy, but i'm not sure if the intercoolers will lift up without it in service position, you could remove most of the hoses and leave the rad's attached to the intercoolers so you dont lose your rear ducting, with just the front bumper removed.

[s8prtotype]

Thanks

Here is the deal. I want to bypass in the AZ winter months...then connect in hot desert AZ months.


If/when we go back to the mtns or Oregon...out they come for good

That'll work, just make sure you cap the open end so nothing gets into the system.

[hahnmgh63]

As far as the caps go, I originally used rubber caps from Napa as did Steveken who had some leak. I have since purchased some High Temp silicone caps from 034 that I plan to replace the rubber caps with when I pull the engine in a couple of months.

[s8prtotype]

As far as the caps go, I originally used rubber caps from Napa as did Steveken who had some leak. I have since purchased some High Temp silicone caps from 034 that I plan to replace the rubber caps with when I pull the engine in a couple of months.

meh, just weld it shut

[lswing]

I would leave them in. Never any proof my engine/car ran hotter, but my belief is increased coolant temps leading to increased oil and trans fluid temps, leads to increased temp related trans damage. Only needed them 3 months out of the year in Oregon. I'll put them back in if I stay in Texas. Noticeable increase in boost performance without the heat soak from them.

Audi knew the car needed better warm weather cooling and put them in for a reason...

[hahnmgh63]

They also put in a crap automatic (5HP24) when the 6HP26 & 6HP28 was already out. Get the Automatic out and you save some heat out of the Radiator. With all of that slipping the Automatic gets hot. Just idling the car the Automatic gets up to temp fairly quick (evidenced by anyone with Vagcom hooked up while changing their ATF).

[s8prtotype]

I'd rather have a bigger oil/tranny cooler installed anyway then my intercoolers heated

cool all the thingz!

[lswing]

I'd rather have a bigger oil/tranny cooler installed anyway then my intercoolers heated

cool all the thingz!

I should have mentioned that's on my list. Almost did it a few years back...

Yep, the better airflow and lack of large chunk of metal bolted behind the ICs is nice!

[fukinavit]

Just to clarify here as maybe I am over thinking this. Basically just join the check valve line to the small inlet of the thermostat housing and reverse the direction of the check valve? (see above pic)
So when the engine is running the coolant flow would be blocked from going past the check valve and preventing hot coolant from the cylinder heads/heater unit going directly back to the thermostat housing.