Whirring sound drivers turbo area.....MAF bank 2 error.....quart of oil in drivers IC

[Beardown1]

Fix one thing and more problems arise. I posted a couple of weeks ago about my bolts falling off of the vibration damper. Got that taken care of and the front end all put back together (with some help from fellow board member RAUDI...who was kind enough to stop by on his Christmas trip home......THANKS!!)

All was well for about 25 miles then I "got on it" a bit at a stop light and the whirring started with no boost. At idle MAF bank 1 was somewhere around 436 and MAF bank 2 was at .8 found a broken wire at MAF 2 and repaired it. Also removed the MAF sensors from the middle of the housings and cleaned them really good along with the housings. Whirring sound still there with no boost. Checked all IC / Turbo hoses and they looked good. Pulled off driver IC hose and a quart of oil poured out. Cleaned that all up with brake cleaner and reinstalled. Still no boost and that whirring sound. Waiting for a new VagCom cable to arrive, but Ross-Tech is closed until after the new year. The whirring sound is only there when moving....IE not at idle or while revving standing still. There when moving in gear and neutral. Any ideas fellas?

[ttboost]

Sounds like you still have a hose off or hose split somewhere...hopefully not the small ones right off the compressor. If you have your MAF's out, you can take a mirror and see them. When you say whirring, it sound slike the turbos are spooling, but no compressed air is getting to the intake. Is all that oil from the intercooler?! How much came out?

[MaxRS6]

That is a lot of oil- Broken Record- Ross Tech will tell the tale. Measuring blocks 2, 3 & 115. After you repaired the MAF sensor, are they reading close to the same, or is one still showing low. May want to swap MAF's around if you suspect one of those is shot, and/or to verify one side is blowing low.

Whirring sound- have you checked the transmission fluid?

[DHall1]

t....u.....r.....b.....o

If that much oil came out.....I would not be driving it till sorted. Don't want to turn a turbo job into an engine job.

[Beardown1]

I will check those hoses ttboost thanks. All of that oil is not from the IC, but at least a quart came out. It sounds different than traditional turbo spooling (deeper tone) but that may be because of a hose. It occurred as I was boosting and really did feel like a hose popped. I cleaned the ICs with brake cleaner and scrapped all of the debris from the bottom troughs while the front end was off. Now there is a lot of oil seepage from the drivers IC.

[RAUDI]

It was good to meet you and my pleasure to help for a little while. I looked up a couple of the things we looked at for you. I wonder if the broken solenoid valve might be a part of this issue. I don't have ETKA so I use a russian website and have my browser translate it to english.

Solenoid Valve. Item 4 on the drawing. Part # 077 906 283C
http://vin-online.ru/etka.php?vag=AU...t=290&gr=13340

Breather Tube. Item 14 on the drawing. Part # 4B3 121 107F
http://vin-online.ru/etka.php?vag=AU...=290&gr=12164#

Check Valve. Item 17 on the drawing. Part # 4B0 955 481
http://vin-online.ru/etka.php?vag=AU...t=290&gr=95530

Hopefully this stuff get sorted quickly and at a reasonable price. It has to get done. We have to get these beasts together for a little ride along the lake.

[1sadavant]

I will check those hoses ttboost thanks. All of that oil is not from the IC, but at least a quart came out. It sounds different than traditional turbo spooling (deeper tone) but that may be because of a hose. It occurred as I was boosting and really did feel like a hose popped. I cleaned the ICs with brake cleaner and scrapped all of the debris from the bottom troughs while the front end was off. Now there is a lot of oil seepage from the drivers IC.

If you lost a quart of oil into the SMIC and there is still oil seeping from the driver's IC then you have to call a spade a spade...your turbo is shot. It's only a matter of time before you have oil leaking into the exhaust side...

[Beardown1]

Okay......let's say it's a spade.......if I lower the rear of the engine can I get the turbos out for a rebuild? Or are we talking front end removal and an engine hoist?

[RAUDI]

I got the passenger side off without pulling the engine. I'll see what clearances look like tomorrow. That being said, I acquired an engine hoist today. I'm sick of fumbling around with this thing in place. Pulling engine tomorrow. It will allow me to do the bufkin pipe, timing job, valve cover gaskets, front and rear main seals doneb while I save for the adapter kit. I think I'm going to powder coat the valve covers while they're out too.

[1sadavant]

Okay......let's say it's a spade.......if I lower the rear of the engine can I get the turbos out for a rebuild? Or are we talking front end removal and an engine hoist?

front end removal and hoist, you'll spend more time fumbling with trying to get to the bolts to disconnect from the manifold with engine in place than you would pulling the engine and R&R the turbos that way.

[Bigglezworth]

Okay......let's say it's a spade.......if I lower the rear of the engine can I get the turbos out for a rebuild? Or are we talking front end removal and an engine hoist?

I am personally in the midst of doing this work and personally think anyone that strives to replace either one of the turbos with the engine/tranny assembly still in (or hanging by a thread from above) is a miracle worker. I will not profess that it cannot be done, because I've not only heard stories about people successfully doing it, I've seen photos of it being done too. With all the 'fun' I've just gone through on this other thread (http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/26...iday-s-RS6-com), I personally think for the additional day of prep time, you've better off dropping the entire hulk.

[ttboost]

I've always worked on this car faster with everything out. If you have the tools and ability..do it. It doesn't really take any more time. First time, a friend and I took 7hrs to remove it. 2nd and 3rd time, I was 4-5 hours by myself. Draining everything is a b*tch, but in the end, way worth it, for everything else you get to do ....and learn....

[hahnmgh63]

BTW, how many miles are on the car? Could be a catastrophic failure of a Turbo seal (as far as the oil goes) but I would just clean the pipes (shoot some Brake clean up into the Intercoolers and let it drain), and put it back together and check it after a thousand miles or so. Audi says to clean them at every service so if they haven't been cleaned in a long time (possibly since on warranty, some dealers I can guarantee don't even do it), it could be residual build up.

[Beardown1]

Thanks for the help guys. Hahnmgh the car has 93k miles. I definitely think the turbo seal is shot. I was 3 quarts low on oil and noticed the remnants of a screw that came out of the IC line with all of the oil. Can just the seal be replaced?

[Chung]

I would say after you have gone through the expense to remove the turbos, you might as well get them completely redone.

[MaxRS6]

I would say after you have gone through the expense to remove the turbos, you might as well get the completely redone.

Agreed- Send those boys to Scroll for a rebuild

[hahnmgh63]

Also agreed, send them to scroll. That screw that came out of the bottom was probably from the Turbo, or if it was chewed up it may have passed through the Turbo while doing some damage. 93K is a bit premature for the K04 turbos to go. Running higher boost, poor quality oil (previous owner), manufacturing or assembly defect, etc... who knows. For a good as new Turbos (both) rebuild from scroll is around $1300.

[DHall1]

Scroll FTW. Get both done

If you're keeping the car...and the trans has not been done...now is the time. Tozo is in Chicago