Happy Holiday's RS6.com

[Bigglezworth]

Tim,

Since you're going to all this extent on the high miler if you want to update any wear items while its out...LMK. Randy had exhaust manifolds come apart at 150ish. I have all the bolt on stuff from the 55k engine here. Fuel injectors too.

Its going to take me 10 more years to reach that mileage on either one of mine.

This is the 'low mileage' Daytona unit (125K).... ha Everything appears to be in good order except for the usual rusted out fasteners that shear off and require drilling/tapping to correct. The exhaust clamps were so rusted out, their shank was half the thickness of new...



I have contemplated keeping the 'high mileage' Mugello beast (235K) around for $hits and giggles simply for reassurance to many an RS6 owner that aside from the obvious tranny/DRC fiascos the car can go the distance with proper maintenance. That coupled with the wierd status of being the owner of the highest mileage beast on NA soil. That aside, I'm in the midst of getting a third beast here in a month or so, and that will likely see me move the Mugello on to some other owner to continue setting history with.

[Bigglezworth]

Confirmed both turbos are in decent condition and even though I have everything apart and the time is optimum, going to elect to reinstall without any bearing or seal overhaul on either ($550/ea.). Sourced out some replacement fasteners/studs to swap out the originals on the turbos, picked up some aluminum plate to create my own SAI block-off plates, and will be looking to modify the coolant pipe that snakes around the passenger side valve cover so that I can easily remove passenger valve cover should I need to at a future date. Going to also drop by a speed shop and look at what options exist for remote oil filter kits.

[RAUDI]

Also, had another frustrating thing occur today when one of my specialty allenhead wrenches stripped out inside the head of the one header bolt that is tucked up way inside..... Can't get the wrench out now either. I think I will need to use an actuall puller to extract as bang and wrenching hasn't been successful to date... CRAP!

Attachment 14543

I did see this last week. I looked right over this last part of the post and read the rest of the thread. That's funny. In fact, I was using your pictures when I was describing to someone how well most of our cars are standing up to corrosion. The worst things that get it are the exhaust. How goes your progress?

[Bigglezworth]

The hulk is back in the bay and all bolted up. Going to spend tomorrow hooking up all the suspension, brakes, ECU, fuel, sensors, etc. Also going to get started on repairs to seal up both intercoolers that are clearly leaking. Would be nice to have it all buttoned up and out the door for the end of the weekend, but at this point my body needs to take a breather and enjoy the last few days off for Xmas break prior to heading back to the office on Monday. Solo work is time consuming and tiring to say the least.

Mentioned a few posts ago that I was looking to modify the Frankenstein coolant pipe that snakes around the back of the engine and along the bottom of the valve cover on the passenger side. Wanted to introduce a flexible connection that would make flexing it out of the way to do a valve cover gasket a host easier. Had all the modifying parts in hand and took things to an aluminum fab shop.




After a lot of discussion, opted against modifying for two reasons. The silver solder connection(s) would be comprimised as soon as the welding of aluminum flare fittings was undertaken. Being as I didn't have fittings that could slip over the existing pipe, I would need to weld vs. solder. I certainly could have had the solder connection(s) welded also, but that just started to increase the price to the point it simply wasn't worth it. I don't have any friends that do aluminum welding, so ended up leaving things as is.

I also wanted to relocate my oil filter with a remote kit, but at this point have shelved that idea also as the fittings for all the current 'kits' are not suitable for an Audi.... Again, something that can be fab'd, but more important to get the ride back on the road vs. an ornament in my garage.

I did however spend a couple of hours bashing the hell out of both piggy pipes to gut the precats. Damn that metal was hard! All cleared out and ready to release a bit more back pressure. Should be somewhat noticeable with a decent tune.





Also blocked off the SAI ports out the back of both heads with some block-off plates that I fab'd up quickly and put in an aluminum coupler for the oil cooler similar to the Bufkin one sold on eBay all the time.

[Beardown1]

Nice work Biggz. I am a few steps behind you. I am planning to do the same to my precats......did you use an air hammer and chisels to clean it out?

[Bigglezworth]

Nice work Biggz. I am a few steps behind you. I am planning to do the same to my precats......did you use an air hammer and chisels to clean it out?

Too deep down inside for an air chisel to be effective IMO. You might find otherwise. I used good old arm and hammer....

[Amulet-S6]

Bigglezworth, Thanks for sharing the photos.

Happy New Year to all!

Feeling really fortunate to have Quattro this time of year. Out and about in 7" of fresh snow and 4* temperatures, topped to offer assistance to several motorist yesterday. Dedicated winter tires are such a good investment (in colder climes)

Keep Smiling (& flossing Jim

[4everRS]

You need longer chisels. I also needed 2 chisels for mine. The first one got all kinds of stuck.

Keep up the good work Tim.

Too deep down inside for an air chisel to be effective IMO. You might find otherwise. I used good old arm and hammer....

[Bigglezworth]

You need longer chisels. I also needed 2 chisels for mine. The first one got all kinds of stuck.

Keep up the good work Tim.

Non air-tool removal was beneficial to offset a tiny bit of the Xmas donut I have around the mid section...

[Bigglezworth]

Took a break with car stuff for the entire last week and only got back to final assembly this weekend. So many parts affected with an engine removal. Seems each time I turn around, something else needs to be reassembled. ha. As part of reassembly, I'm cleaning a bunch of things up, sealing small oil leaks, general tidiness. Wanted to make reassembly of the oil/tranny cooler a little easier by undoing the fittings from the oil cooler housing itself. Couldn't do this while it was on the car as the fasteners were seized on way to tight and though that some clamping with soft jaws in the vice would make things easier. Blasted the lines with a host of liquid wrench and started on things after a couple of days sitting. Fitting broke loose and started to work out after some back and forth. To my dismay once the hose was entirely removed however, I noticed so were all the threads on the nipple.... DAMN.



Refrained from trying to remove any of the other fittings obviously and did some soul searching to figure out what I would do as a remedial effort. Putting a new fitting in would require aluminum welding which I would need a qualified trade for as I can't locate anyone locally that does silver soldering. There was still ample threads left on last half of the nipple, but with this being a flared tube fitting, I couldn't just lop off the damaged end as that would compromise the sealing of the line. I thought about milling the end off and retapering to accept the fitting, but that was really only a logical solution if you could align the cooler with the milling machine and all the spagetti hanging off each end quickly killed that idea. I then elected to lengthen the fitting on the end of the hose. I was able to chase out all the damaged thread material from the original coupler and purchased a second coupler to which I cut off a 5mm portion to provide the required extension. Some careful mig welding and voila!. Add some proper anti-seize compound for dissimlar materials and line repaired.

[G2]

Very clever. Hope it holds for the long haul. If not maybe weld another male threaded section on the oil cooler?

[Bigglezworth]

Repair effort has been working fantastic for the past 2.5 weeks. Glad to have the wounded warrior back in action tearing up the roads. I can't remember the thread where I made mention about reversing the aux rad backflow valve and running it between the T-stat pipe and the coolant resevoir, but I did in fact do that here on my end after removing the aux rads and confirm it's performed exactly as well in action as it does in theory.