New to Board & RS6 Ownership

[lswing]

G2, what fluid do you recommend for transmission fluid? Any particular brand of filter? I want to avoid the starvation/pickup issues that some have experienced. I took a look at the www.oiloregon.com web site. I could not determine the Transmission filter to order? Do you have the code for the Audi RS6 ZF? On motor oil I believe you recommend EFMQT-EA but am not sure.

Audi OEM filter, trim pickup 1/4" to prevent starvation by pan pressing into it.

[G2]

I plan to have the Transmission fluid/filter changed after I get it. His dealer service records don't show it was ever changed as the dealer probably considered it a "lifetime" fill.

G2, what fluid do you recommend for transmission fluid? Any particular brand of filter? I want to avoid the starvation/pickup issues that some have experienced. I took a look at the www.oiloregon.com web site. I could not determine the Transmission filter to order? Do you have the code for the Audi RS6 ZF? On motor oil I believe you recommend EFMQT-EA but am not sure.

Also, I had Audi give me a price on a extended 3 year 36 k mike warranty. They priced it at $3,900 for the platinum (everything covered). Not out of the question but I am wondering if it has a high probability of payback. The car has 24.5 k what I think have been really easy over maintained miles. Anybody have any luck negotiating the extended warranty? Not sure I will drive more than 3-4k per year unless I love this car so much I sell my daily driver. An then I will only drive maybe 8 k per year. I live just a few miles from work.

Yes, dealers do not do a full trans service due to that fact. ATF is only added after replacing a pan gasket, as they did on my car (calls for 4 qts but seems to use about 6-7 from experience). A full flush will use about 16qts, anything less than 14qts isn't enough. I've used up to 18qts on the ZF auto boxes-- the debris just keeps coming out...

I have been using Amsoil ATF in various cars and all Audi's since '08, and since getting my car on 6/12. Fantastic fluid. My only slight reservation due to an overstressed transmission (if tuned) is that I think reducing the friction modifiers would be advisable (esp. in cooler weather). Amsoil makes a performance/race ATF. I am going to blend some of it into my car soon, to see if it firms up the shifts a little and lessens the periodic slippage (I can't stress enough how absolutely clean fluid is critical). I'll start with a gallon blend (appx 25% volume) and go from there....but I am catering to my specific car and the characteristics of my trans, in my climate, my driving style, and my penchant for being OCD.

There's not much to choose from filter wise. I always go with known German/euro brands. One I use is Meyle: 01L 398 009 BMY
O.E. #01L 398 009 B. Or Filtran is an OE supplier, but not always easy to find. Just avoid cheap (Chinese) brands. I don't think Amsoil offers a trans filter thru their product lines....

I'm not convinced trimming the filter snout is needed, but may help, if properly done. The last one I saw was roughly done (side cutters?). I think sharp edges could induce cavitation - air bubbles at worst, and/or flow turbulence- while the pump sucks oil. If done, I'd make sure all edges are smooth (and it becomes even more imperitive to maintain the oil level). If one does hit the pan, it'll be smart to just stop and get a tow home, while the oil likely leaks out and the filter is internally broken.....

Yes, the EFM oil is the high SAPS, which I personally use. Get the 5L size in a case (2x5L)- better price, easy to pour in, less waste. There is a mid and low-additive oil for those that feel the gospel of VAG must be followed. In short the more durable oil base stock helps prevent blow by, retaining the additives where it's needed-- in the crank case. Lower grade oils with high additives could cause issues after prolong use, or engines in degrading condition (loose rings, leaking valve guides, PCV issues), or that have been mis-treated.

Engine oil filter is a Amsoil EAO-37. Synthetic media, high flow, but extreme filtration and don't degrade like paper types. I think it helps with quicker oil pressure buildup on start up. FYI, the S6 filter is about 2x the size of the RS6. All the more reason to use the best filter possible.

Warranty: I've bought several. Well the wife has and she always gets them for 1/2 price (no, I don't have to leave the room...). Basically they make 100% margin on them, so there is plenty of bargaining room (on normal cars anyway). Shop around, but if you can get it for $3K, I'd run with it. Low miles, will not alleviate issues or costs. It'll just hurt more because "it only has xx miles on it!..." excuse won't appreciably apply. The warranty will pay for itself, and reduce your stress level. Best I could find at the time was $5K and some of the companies were heisters.

Sounds like you have a gem and will no doubt be a few steps ahead of us folks that bought at 70K+ miles.

Hope that helps!

[Bigglezworth]

Audi OEM filter, trim pickup 1/4" to prevent starvation by pan pressing into it.

I have read that there were two different pan depths (variance of 3mm) which might attribute to this. I would always compare replacement part against removed part before automaticallly modifying.

[G2]

I have read that there were two different pan depths (variance of 3mm) which might attribute to this. I would always compare replacement part against removed part before automaticallly modifying.

Good to know. I consistently see the same filter P/N's for the C5's, but that doesn't mean ZF didn't change the valve body height or who know's what. I worked in Engineering for years and there were always revisions to stuff as things developed (and/or got cheaper).

I posted another one of my long winded reports on modifying the filter last summer. Last I remembered there's normally about 6-7mm of clearance (1/4").

Well, back to work-- yes, it's 2:30a PST (so much for the 9-5 job!). Time for another batch of coffee

[ttboost]

When I first got my car, we had it on the lift as the trans was acting funny. My buddy took it in on trade, fairly cheap, because the owner thought the trans was dead. When we got it up there and dropped the transmission pan, we found that the filter had a small split along the seam. It was not a stock filter. You would think that it shouldn't make a difference, as it is still sucking fluid, but it ran fine after we put a good filter in it. With this experience, I highly recommend OEM filters only.

[Papadelogan]

Ok, I am interested in the low vin = transmission issues. Is that that the torque converter is the problem. Should I have it fixed preventively?

I've been searching the site and (so far) have not come across what qualifies as a "LOW VIN"; I realize there's probably not a "hard number" but if someone could let me know a range, I'd greatly appreciate it. I'm starting to actively look for an RS6 so this info is quickly becoming a must-have item. Thanks!

[lswing]

Dave has it estimated at about 5500 for the cutoff, 5600 is golden he has found for the most part....

TC is such a pain to change, I would wait. You're looking at $2-3k in labor costs. Might as well wait until it goes, or something else that requires engine removal. Keep a close eye on it though. Some folks have had the trans last years even with a bad TC, driving habits and mileage is a big part. Replace both at same time with upgrades I say....

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/89...ilation/page23

[DHall1]

Thanks Lou and you are correct.

Early early vin's in the 4300 range are almost a 100percent guaranty that trans were blown by 50k.

Middle vin's 5300-5500 are hit and miss.

Late vin's 5600+ are about 100percent perfect up to 120k even tuned.

Late vin production dates are 10/03 and later.

Good luck

Dave has it estimated at about 5500 for the cutoff, 5600 is golden he has found for the most part....

TC is such a pain to change, I would wait. You're looking at $2-3k in labor costs. Might as well wait until it goes, or something else that requires engine removal. Keep a close eye on it though. Some folks have had the trans last years even with a bad TC, driving habits and mileage is a big part. Replace both at same time with upgrades I say....

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/89...ilation/page23

[DHall1]

Even money it is.

Nice list of prev cars. I think you will fit right in here.

What is the VIN? last 6. EDIT: Got your VIN from the other thread. Middle VIN, I will check the list to see if I have any other info on it.

Early VIN has issues with transmissions even at low mileages.

At your miles....if its an early VIN....I would buy a 4/48 service contract. It will be reasonable do to the low miles. I can almost give you even money that a trans is in your future. Would I still own the car? Hell yes.