LOL...I think my DRC is blown.

[Bigglezworth]

Yes, new generation DRC is much better from what they put into c5 rs6.

The second gen C5 DRC struts have been just fine. It's the rusting flexible hoses that are the problem. Escapes me the logic of engineers that think that because you have a SS braided line, it won't break. It WILL and DOES break (burst) when it starts to rust after cracks in the outer rubber sheathing crack due to age/heat, and then permit the entry and festering of water/salts. My high mileage (235K) car was on the OEM 1st gen DRC that it came from the factory with when the recall was performed at 215K.... No broken lines. No leaking dampers. My other ride however has had ALL 4 hoses burst. Never a bad damper. Always a bad hose. Last burst hose just happened not long ago and I am out of replacement lines. lol I am going to look to put in some ST Coilovers as part of the revamping efforts I'm currently doing for a tranny swap.

[Carado1984]

Im pretty sure my DRC just shit the bed too. Started with clanking in the rear, mixed with some squeeking. Now the entire suspension makes noise over every bump and is bouncy as hell. I have not noticed any hydraulic fluid leaking though but it is by far the worst feeling suspension I have ever felt and it was perfectly fine, just stiff, when i first bought the car. Cant wait for tax return season.

[Turbowned]

I might ditch the DRC for some coil-overs just because the ride is mediocre around town if you ask me. That and I want the car to be lower. Is there a weight savings from swapping the DRC for coil-overs?

[hahnmgh63]

Can't remember exactly but I think the KW V3's were about 20# lighter than the DRC in total, that includes pulling all of the DRC lines. The KW's do have reservoirs so may be a couple pounds heavier than some of the others in total.

[Dmb408]

I had my choice of old threads to resurrect but I picked this one... Calling Bigglezworth...didn't want to PM because I figure there might be some community benefit.

One of my DRC braided lines is toast, ruptured. Dealership of course wants 1600 for this because it comes with the accumulator and/or other lines. Did you ever figure out a solution for fixing this section of braided line? Thanks in advance. Are there separate part numbers possibly or lines and connectors of other set ups that work? Thanks!

[Bigglezworth]

I had my choice of old threads to resurrect but I picked this one... Calling Bigglezworth...didn't want to PM because I figure there might be some community benefit.

One of my DRC braided lines is toast, ruptured. Dealership of course wants 1600 for this because it comes with the accumulator and/or other lines. Did you ever figure out a solution for fixing this section of braided line? Thanks in advance. Are there separate part numbers possibly or lines and connectors of other set ups that work? Thanks!

I used a "fix" for my one front line yes. I wanted to simply have a hydraulic supply company here locally fabricate a new line like they would for brakes, but after digging in to the differences between the hydraulic lines for brakes and those for the DRC, quickly found out that the DRC is use specific. The brake lines have smaller internal diameter hoses and as such would not move as much fluid in as quick a manner as required. Brakes don't move anywhere near as much fluid as the DRC, so the smaller brake line was a no go. Also to add further complications to matters, the DRC fittings (that are stamped with the four rings on them), are an automotive specific fitting that the hydraulic supply companies don't have...

Then I took an approach to keep the OEM end fittings on the line and provide a new hydraulic coupling at the mid section where the line rusted out (front hose that had cracks in rubber hose covering which let the braided line within start to rust over time with festering water and salts). This was a no go also as the line is short and needed to still permit movement up and down with suspension travel and to much of the existing hose was required for the new compression fittings. That led to the third option which was to carefully grind off the OEM fittings on the old hosebeing careful to retain the head/neck and use that in conjunction with a new larger diameter hose and compressive fittings from standard hydraulic lines rated for 3000psi. In the end this worked well and only cost the $15.00 to fab the line. BIG difference from the $450.00 hose charged by the Audi Stealership... Once I had new line in place, I drove the car to the dealer and paid them $150.00 plus fluid to recharge the system. Was happy with the end result until another line failed and then simply elected to strip things out and go with a coil over suspension.

I never did anything with the accumulators as they weren't responsible for the lack of performance. The hose was. My dampers for the two OEM systems I had prior to the recall had never failed. Just the hoses and further, just the front hoses that had the flex and rubber rot. The hoses would have performed much better IMO if the would have been left as braided lines just like the oil cooler and tranny cooler lines. That way the water would have had a place to drip off from and easily dry vs. fester and rust/rot.

[Dmb408]

So Bigglez, because it failed, you would not make decision to do the hose fix or would you?

[Bigglezworth]

So Bigglez, because it failed, you would not make decision to do the hose fix or would you?

I elected to repair for the first two times, but after the third instance, I pulled the plug. In doing so I went with a coil over that was subpar and have been unhappy compared to the OEM set-up, but that isn't laying blame to non-DRC rides. It was just my poor choice in after market. The other rides I have stayed with DRC and I have been fine with them. Neither of them have had a hose go and both of those are second gen struts.

[lswing]

From experience, compared to many sporty performance and luxury cars, I've been very happy with the Koni Yellow Sport struts, exceeded my expectations. Really balance well with the stock springs it seems, comfortable but has some firmness to it, and that's running on the full soft setting. Just throwing it out there. And decent ride height, not too low for winter use...

[Dmb408]

I think I am going to take a chance on some of the used ones off Ebay from Germany. Those will have seemingly not been exposed to Northeast US winter conditions (as my car was repeatedly by prior owner). This looks worth a chance, right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-RS6-4B-...c88453&vxp=mtr

[DHall1]

I have a set of second gen drc struts. 25k CA miles

And lines again CA driven with 40k total

[Bigglezworth]

I think I am going to take a chance on some of the used ones off Ebay from Germany. Those will have seemingly not been exposed to Northeast US winter conditions (as my car was repeatedly by prior owner). This looks worth a chance, right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-RS6-4B-...c88453&vxp=mtr

ARe you buying struts or lines? Pretty sure some users (myself included) have lines kicking around for cheap. A few also have 2nd gen struts laying around. Dave has a near pristine set of a car without any winter mileage. Better value than Germany IMO.

[ttboost]

Stunned when I saw the title...blown DRC? Really?

[Dmb408]

That is what I want/am going for just so we are clear, but really I just need the line coming off the valve, not even the "control valve," cough cough, the 1600 dollar part, oh but wait Jim Ellis has it on sale for only 1400, stop the press.

[DHall1]

I have what you need.

That is what I want/am going for just so we are clear, but really I just need the line coming off the valve, not even the "control valve," cough cough, the 1600 dollar part, oh but wait Jim Ellis has it on sale for only 1400, stop the press.

[Dmb408]

Valves on their way - thanks Dave.

On a related note, do you all think I can plug-n-play an empty valve in myself when I get it and then drive it the 30 miles to the dealership for the recharge (i.e. that way they only charge me for the recharge hours, not an extra half or full hour for putting in the new valve). My worry is air.

[Bigglezworth]

Valves on their way - thanks Dave.

On a related note, do you all think I can plug-n-play an empty valve in myself when I get it and then drive it the 30 miles to the dealership for the recharge (i.e. that way they only charge me for the recharge hours, not an extra half or full hour for putting in the new valve). My worry is air.

Yes. I did exactly that twice (for one bank). Remember spring supports the car - strut provides dampening. Many an owner has lost a seal or a hose at some point and driven for some time prior to figuring out the DRC had failed. During that entire time the system was without pressure in the same manner as what you will have. I suppose you could argue that there remains some fluid in the damper after a seal goes or a hose cracks, but there is still a host of air. IMO, as long as you're not driving roads that are excessively poor, you should be just fine. They have to bleed the system of all air as part of the recharge so no worries about there being air in the line(s). In the end you need to be comfortable with what you do with your ride so the final decision needs to be yours Perhaps the dealer providing the recharge has an opinion?

[Dmb408]

Yea I will ask R/RS6 tech, he usually responds to my dumb questions like this kindly and quickly. I think I am going to go DIY, plus dealer do the recharge method. I can't do too much damage