6MT Conversion Project

[RAUDI]

Left downpipe removed. Tools; 13mm wrench, 13mm socket, 16mm socket, swivel, 17mm wrench, extensions, 22mm wrench

downpipe bolts are also 12mm triple squares, but I found them easier to take out with the 16mm socket

[alrightroad]

Progress looks good.

[RAUDI]

Got it out at the cost of a swivel joint and a bruised thumb.

[RAUDI]

Small pry bar on the flywheel teeth with a 10mm triple square seated in a 13mm socket using a 15" 1/2" drive breaker.

[RAUDI]

The top bolt was a bit trickier than i expected, but got to it with the turbo in place. Did have to give it a little pry to get it through the tight opening and a tap with the dead blow to unseat it from the block.

[MaxRS6]

Small pry bar on the flywheel teeth with a 10mm triple square seated in a 13mm socket using a 15" 1/2" drive breaker.

Those suckers were tuff last time mine was pulled. The rear main seal showed some minor leakage..so I had the tech replace it while in the area. Congrats on the progress!

[RAUDI]

I can't imagine how hard torquing these down is. There isn't much to grab to stop the flywheel from spinning. Am I crazy or is the rear main seal on this engine 300 bucks?

[MaxRS6]

Yep- $3 bills- the indy tech said ouch when I told him da price. Heck if I wanted it put back together and it get worse- I would have to bang my head on the tree- again

[Bigglezworth]

I can't imagine how hard torquing these down is. There isn't much to grab to stop the flywheel from spinning. Am I crazy or is the rear main seal on this engine 300 bucks?

Geeze guys. Source some decent ARP alternates that have BETTER bolt patterns, but same pitch/dia and install those instead of the crappy triple square bolts. Same goes for C/V axles. ARP Torque Converter bolts are rated at 200,000 psi and come with hardened parallel-ground washers. Used on thousands and thousands high power race engines, so this application is a piece of cake. Would well believe they would have suitable fasteners to replace the OEM fasteners for both TC and C/V's.

http://arp-bolts.com/

[MaxRS6]

^Won't it reduce the resale value not being OEM??? Heck if I want to try to sell Crazy and have to disclose I have ARP bolts..;0

[Bigglezworth]

Gawd no. An improvement and then some. When (and if) I do a full rebuild of #2 here in order to extract power that rivals or exceeds what the same slug puts out in the Gumpert Apollo, I will be looking to swap out all rod bolts & head bolts with ARP replacements while at the same time putting in an ARP stud kit for the heads. I have utilized ARP fasteners the engines in my NSX and my GNX both. The Buick pushes out more than 28psi of boost so there is no compromizing when it comes to rod bolts, mains, heads, TC, etc. IMO

[MaxRS6]

Uhhhh- I was j/k. My car isn't exactly OEM (KW's, APR, Miltek, and the beat goes on...;\0

edit: Where is the stud kit for the heads listed on the ARP site?

[Bigglezworth]

Sorry. Of course. I haven't gone alookin through their cataloge to confirm if a stock part # exists for our engine, but even if it doesn't, a call to them is certain to go a long way in confirming what can be put together as a kit for rods, mains, heads, TC, etc.

[SteveKen]

I can't imagine how hard torquing these down is. There isn't much to grab to stop the flywheel from spinning. Am I crazy or is the rear main seal on this engine 300 bucks?

My kit includes new flywheel bolts (custom length) that are socket head cap screws that use an 8mm hex. They're a lot easier to tighten, torque and remove, etc. I've always used the crank lock pin to secure the crank for removing and installing the flywheel/flexplate bolts.

The RMS is expensive because it's the whole seal with the aluminum housing piece. I recall that Tozo told me that he was trying to cross reference just the seal itself, but I don't think he had any success.

Geeze guys. Source some decent ARP alternates that have BETTER bolt patterns, but same pitch/dia and install those instead of the crappy triple square bolts. Same goes for C/V axles. ARP Torque Converter bolts are rated at 200,000 psi and come with hardened parallel-ground washers. Used on thousands and thousands high power race engines, so this application is a piece of cake. Would well believe they would have suitable fasteners to replace the OEM fasteners for both TC and C/V's.

http://arp-bolts.com/

McMaster Carr is a good cheap source for the screws that attach the prop shaft and inner CV flanges. Just make sure you get ones with sufficient yield strength.

[TozoM8]

I sure did. Timken 716102 from the dealer. It is OD 105mm ID 85mm W 11mm. I have a picture of it just don't know how to post it.

[DHall1]

Oh hell yeah, you mean we don't have to replace that whole assembly for the rear main seal?

I sure did. Timken 716102 from the dealer. It is OD 105mm ID 85mm W 11mm. I have a picture of it just don't know how to post it.

[lswing]

I sure did. Timken 716102 from the dealer. It is OD 105mm ID 85mm W 11mm. I have a picture of it just don't know how to post it.

Email it to me and I'll post it...

When you type a reply in here, there is an icon up top to load an image, you can browse to your computer to the file.

BTW, trans gets looked at Thurs or Monday, busy week, thanks!

[RAUDI]

Today's progress was bittersweet.
Good:
I got my kit from audis4parts.com
Powerwashed all parts that I received and all that have been removed so far
Got everything removed from the stock transmission; clips, oil lines, shift cables..
Got all but 2 of the transmission bolts out

Bad:
Center section of the manual transmission is rusty as sin. Going to have to blast it and paint it before installation.
Got all but 2 of the transmission bolts out