How bad are these 3 fault codes?

[Other_Erik]

Got back under the driver footwell area and put things back in order. The shop that installed my K40 misplaced the ODB-II port and unplugged the green wire on the driver footwell light. Got the VCDS plugged in and ended up with a couple of faults.

Address 35:
Code 01368 - Alarm triggered by Luggage Compartment Switch 35-00 - -
Not too worried about this, I occassionally unlock just the trunk without unlocking the doors to grab something out or put something in, sets off the alarm. No biggie.
Code 01561 - Left Rear Door 59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
I'm going to clear this one and hope it doesn't come back. Rare that I have anyone sitting in the back seat anyway.

Now on to the stuff that does worry me:
Address 01:
17861 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235) P1453 - 001 - Open or Short to Plus
17865 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 2 (G236) P1457 - 001 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
17887 - Brake Boost Vacuum System P1479 - 008 - Mechanical Failure

I'm assuming P1453 & P1457 mean new EGT Sensors - does that require an engine pull, or is there some way to finagle them into place without adding 20 hours labor charges?
P1479 worries me quite a lot. One of the things I love about the car is how well it puts the MPH's on and then back off when needed. Definitely not looking for one of those "Oh Shit!" moments with hard pedal and no brakes... Suggestions?

Thanks
Other_Erik

[lswing]

Was any of this showing previously, before screwy radar install? Maybe it's just wiring for the egt's, but they could be going. With the engine loosened up some say 6-8 hours to get the egt's done, by the right mechanic. You can keep driving with bad egt's, correct me if wrong, but they just allow a good monitoring of conditions and will dump fuel if something is screwed up and you hit 2000F.

I've heard of a few cases of brakes going while driving, scary for sure, smoke test, might just be a loose or cracked line.

[4everRS]

Egts are not too bad if you know a mechanic that can do it by just lowering the back of the engine a bit. The pair of egts new is over 500 buck though.

The brake boost issue might be bad. There is a vacuum pump under the intake manifold that has been known to crack. This is a pretty big job. If notice the whistleing of air coming from under the intake manifold, that's your problem.

[Other_Erik]

Was any of this showing previously, before screwy radar install? Maybe it's just wiring for the egt's, but they could be going. With the engine loosened up some say 6-8 hours to get the egt's done, by the right mechanic. You can keep driving with bad egt's, correct me if wrong, but they just allow a good monitoring of conditions and will dump fuel if something is screwed up and you hit 2000F.

I've heard of a few cases of brakes going while driving, scary for sure, smoke test, might just be a loose or cracked line.

Egts are not too bad if you know a mechanic that can do it by just lowering the back of the engine a bit. The pair of egts new is over 500 buck though.

The brake boost issue might be bad. There is a vacuum pump under the intake manifold that has been known to crack. This is a pretty big job. If notice the whistleing of air coming from under the intake manifold, that's your problem.

Thanks, guys. I didn't have the VAG-COM before the radar install, maybe TechGurru can chime in? I'll listen for whistling when I start the car this afternoon, hoping it's just a hose, will be sure to have the vac system smoked if I can't hear an obvious problem. In the meantime, I saved the log, so I'm going to clear codes and cross fingers hoping that does the trick - how often does a code need to come up before it's no longer intermittent?

Other_Erik

[lswing]

Seems to show 50-75 miles or so when I've had intermittent errors from O2 or TC...

[Bigglezworth]

A bad EGT will cause the ECU to dump fuel in to the affected bank so that you run rich and cool the head temperatures down. Lots of people have the EGT's 'coded out' on their tunes. There is also a thread on here about a plugNplay resistor that tricks the ECU in to thinking the EGT is still attached. $40 each I recall. EGT's can be swapped without removing engine if you use appropriate jacking, hoisting/support efforts for your front engine/cross member and drop the rear part to get your hand and a wrench up at access the nut. Lots of people have also pried open the EGT and ensured the solder for the wires is not cracked causing a problem connection that registers as a failed EGT. Lots of links on the net for this too. Personally looked at performing this repair to my one EGT when I had an error, but in my case, the code didn't go away which confirmed a bad EGT. Remember the RS6 EGT's are not the same as any of the other Audi EGT's. Accordingly those that sell them bend you over price wise.

[Other_Erik]

A bad EGT will cause the ECU to dump fuel in to the affected bank so that you run rich and cool the head temperatures down. Lots of people have the EGT's 'coded out' on their tunes. There is also a thread on here about a plugNplay resistor that tricks the ECU in to thinking the EGT is still attached. $40 each I recall. EGT's can be swapped without removing engine if you use appropriate jacking, hoisting/support efforts for your front engine/cross member and drop the rear part to get your hand and a wrench up at access the nut. Lots of people have also pried open the EGT and ensured the solder for the wires is not cracked causing a problem connection that registers as a failed EGT. Lots of links on the net for this too. Personally looked at performing this repair to my one EGT when I had an error, but in my case, the code didn't go away which confirmed a bad EGT. Remember the RS6 EGT's are not the same as any of the other Audi EGT's. Accordingly those that sell them bend you over price wise.

Wealth of info here, any chance you have any further info on the resistor? I'm not concerned with head temps given my totally stock internals and plans to go for bigger IC's in the near future... I appreciate the help I get here on RS6.com, knowledgeable folks willing to help out the FNG, so much better than most other car forums ("F*ckin SEARCH, noob!") and such.

Thanks
Other_Erik

//Edit - did some further research, looks like the EGT Sensor bodies are located somewhere mounted to the firewall with the braided lines to the thermocouple running into the back of the exhaust manifolds? Any chance this can be fished out by my scrawny arms with the engine in and possibly winched forward? I'd really like to avoid yet another $1000+ repair bill, especially if there's the possibility that I may just need to open up the sensor housings, clean out the jelly, flux, re-solder, fill back with silicone caulk, and re-install. Not trying to be cheap about it, but if the sensors are good and it's just a cracked solder joint, it's that much more I can put towards the IC Upgrade I've got planned... -tidE\\

[Other_Erik]

Wealth of info here, any chance you have any further info on the resistor? I'm not concerned with head temps given my totally stock internals and plans to go for bigger IC's in the near future... I appreciate the help I get here on RS6.com, knowledgeable folks willing to help out the FNG, so much better than most other car forums ("F*ckin SEARCH, noob!") and such.

Thanks
Other_Erik

//Edit - did some further research, looks like the EGT Sensor bodies are located somewhere mounted to the firewall with the braided lines to the thermocouple running into the back of the exhaust manifolds? Any chance this can be fished out by my scrawny arms with the engine in and possibly winched forward? I'd really like to avoid yet another $1000+ repair bill, especially if there's the possibility that I may just need to open up the sensor housings, clean out the jelly, flux, re-solder, fill back with silicone caulk, and re-install. Not trying to be cheap about it, but if the sensors are good and it's just a cracked solder joint, it's that much more I can put towards the IC Upgrade I've got planned... -tidE\\

Reviving an old thread I know. Soldering the joints seemed to fix one of my EGT sensors, the other one came back after a while. Had the beast in the shop for a bunch of work and the wiring between thermocouple and housing had been chewed up, exposing the wires inside. Good thing I had replacement sensors from P1054 (may his poor beast RIP).

The Suction Jet Pump was replaced, along with every vac hose under the UIM (and other non-related like aux water pump), and I'm still getting the P1479 code. I've looked and listened and felt all the lines that I could for a leak, and it looks like I'll need to just have the system smoked to find the problem. I may be mistaken, but there was a point in researching where I ran across someone having this problem related to the Diverter Valves (N75) - is it possible that my poor 13 year old DV's have given up the ghost, and would that cause this code?

Thanks
O_E

[nubcake]

the Diverter Valves (N75)

N75 is a boost control solenoid, not the DVs.
As for original question about P1479 DTC - how do your brakes feel? When you start the car in the morning after it having sat overnight - does the brake pedal feel "stiff" initially, before you actually start the engine?