No warranty - What should I be worried about?

[1uglymug]

I have 51,000 miles.

Below are a list of major and most recent repairs (receipts from previous owner). I put the dealership cost in as a reference for folks.

39,056 miles
DRC suspension service - Warranty (no cost listed)
Left front CV boot - $337.20
Replace upper control arm bushings - $571.64
4 Wheel Alignment - $99.95

47,038 miles
Front Brakes - $1763.36
Rear Brakes - $1371.28
Fuel Tank Rollover Valve Nipple (this included: JY recall, Bold, Rep Sep, Gasket, Clamp, Mixing Jet, Adhesive) - Warranty (no cost listed)
45000 mile service - $250.00
Oil Change + BG MOA + BG 44K - $225.65
BG Brake Flush (recommended q2yrs) - $142.13
BG front differential fluid exchange (synthetic) - $127.84
BG power steering fluid exchange (synthetic) - $147.40

47,156
Torch converter clutch replaced
Replaced transmission fluid and filter
Install new transmission pan gasket
Replace right front CV boot
Total visit - $6474.89

Feel free to comment on the above list.

Being cheap, I did not want to spend $5000 on a warranty and then have to fight with them to have work covered. Reading forum comments on warranties, I sense I could be short sighted.

What are the major repairs I should be worried about at this point?

Should I absolutely be in search of a warranty company?

Thank you in advance for your input.

[lswing]

TC and Trans are the big ticket items, but you might be able to get a good warranty with your low miles. Sensors can cost $1-2k, oil cooler pipe could break $2k, leaks from cooling system, seals.....

[mrdave]

How handy are you with repairs? I also don't have a warranty but I'm not too concerned about it. If you can do most maintenance and some repairs yourself I don't think an aftermarket warranty is worth it. However, if you plan on paying a shop to do all of the work to your car then it may be beneficial.

[marklar182]

I dont see a timing belt service on there, but I am sure it was done if the PO had all that other stuff done.

What you can do is go to an Audi dealer with your VIN and they can pull a full service history for you.

[Spidercat]

As has been said before, if you don't have the resources to work on the car yourself (time, space, etc.) get the best warranty you can.

I've got the Fidelity Gold Plus (one step below Platinum), and have kicked myself ever since for not upgrading to Platinum when I extended it. It was about $2-3K more, but the last 3 things that went bad weren't on the list of "covered" items, and labor alone exceeded the difference (A/C hose, suction jet pump, and latest is oil cooler pipe causing a slow coolant leak--being replaced w/Bufkin aluminum part ftw). Parts weren't that bad, it's the labor that kills to replace all these stupid cheap plastic parts that inevitably bake and crack over time due to that tightly packed Cosworth heat generator under our hoods.

These items are supposedly covered under Platinum, but not Gold Plus because the weren't specifically listed as included under the coverage.

[1uglymug]

How handy are you with repairs? I also don't have a warranty but I'm not too concerned about it. If you can do most maintenance and some repairs yourself I don't think an aftermarket warranty is worth it. However, if you plan on paying a shop to do all of the work to your car then it may be beneficial.

I bought a Ross Tech VAG COM and the Bentley service manual and with other help here, I will be attempting to do most things myself. I will not be comfortable dropping the engine or anything of that nature, at least not by myself. But for most things, if I can take it apart, I can usually get it all back together.

[1uglymug]

TC and Trans are the big ticket items, but you might be able to get a good warranty with your low miles. Sensors can cost $1-2k, oil cooler pipe could break $2k, leaks from cooling system, seals.....

This is what I need to know. What are high on the list of items that typically break, and what is the cost to repair them? What are the big ticket items left that could go wrong? I need a risk/reward ratio in my mind before going after a warranty.

[lswing]

AC $2k, almost forgot....

[ben916]

I have 51,000 miles.

Below are a list of major and most recent repairs (receipts from previous owner). I put the dealership cost in as a reference for folks.

39,056 miles
DRC suspension service - Warranty (no cost listed)
Left front CV boot - $337.20
Replace upper control arm bushings - $571.64
4 Wheel Alignment - $99.95

47,038 miles
Front Brakes - $1763.36
Rear Brakes - $1371.28
Fuel Tank Rollover Valve Nipple (this included: JY recall, Bold, Rep Sep, Gasket, Clamp, Mixing Jet, Adhesive) - Warranty (no cost listed)
45000 mile service - $250.00
Oil Change + BG MOA + BG 44K - $225.65
BG Brake Flush (recommended q2yrs) - $142.13
BG front differential fluid exchange (synthetic) - $127.84
BG power steering fluid exchange (synthetic) - $147.40

47,156
Torch converter clutch replaced
Replaced transmission fluid and filter
Install new transmission pan gasket
Replace right front CV boot
Total visit - $6474.89

Feel free to comment on the above list.

Being cheap, I did not want to spend $5000 on a warranty and then have to fight with them to have work covered. Reading forum comments on warranties, I sense I could be short sighted.

What are the major repairs I should be worried about at this point?

Should I absolutely be in search of a warranty company?

Thank you in advance for your input.

Ah! RS6 = a healthy diet of gas and money!

looking at your list above, a majority of it is maintaining the car... except for the bolded area.
If you are comfortable with spending $6k on service to replace the Torque Converter, then you fine without a warranty.
If you aren't comfortable with spending $6k on service to replace the TQ, then you might consider a warranty.

It looks like those prices are from a dealership.

Case in point:
oil cooler tube from the block to the oil cooler to circulate coolant to keep the oil somewhat cooler.
cost of OEM part = ±$50
cost to access and replace part = $5300 (motor removal)
cost of my aftermarket warranty = $3300
cost @ time of pickup from Audi service = $230 (deductible plus some tax)

There are others on here that have saved tens of thousands WITH a warranty...

[Spidercat]

oil cooler tube from the block to the oil cooler to circulate coolant to keep the oil somewhat cooler.
cost of OEM part = ±$50
cost to access and replace part = $5300 (motor removal)
cost of my aftermarket warranty = $3300
cost @ time of pickup from Audi service = $230 (deductible plus some tax)

Ben, what warranty do you have? You got a great deal.

I paid more than that for the Gold Plus coverage from Fidelity, and they will not cover the oil cooler pipe since it's not specifically on the list of "covered" items. I've been just keeping the coolant topped off since it's such a slow leak (for the moment, anyway) until something else comes up that require engine removal.

To the OP, as Ben points out, engine removal is expensive. So one big "oh, crap" (valve cover gasket, TC, oil cooler tube, etc.) and the warranty has paid for itself. These are not uncommon problems. No one can give you an expected frequency that they will occur. Just always have some money in the bank for when they do if you decide to forego the warranty.
Also, a good Indy shop may be able to do some of these things without removing the engine, but the dealer won't (or at least won't pass the savings on to you, I bet).

[1uglymug]

To the OP, as Ben points out, engine removal is expensive. So one big "oh, crap" (valve cover gasket, TC, oil cooler tube, etc.) and the warranty has paid for itself. These are not uncommon problems. No one can give you an expected frequency that they will occur. Just always have some money in the bank for when they do if you decide to forego the warranty.
Also, a good Indy shop may be able to do some of these things without removing the engine, but the dealer won't (or at least won't pass the savings on to you, I bet).

Thanks for the tip! I might stop in a local indy shop to get an idea of their pricing. By the way, how much were you quoted for a Fidelity Platinum plan?

[Elevens]

If you've done your research on the Forums, RS6+Warranty is a No Brainer. Transmission and or Torque Converter will go, especially if modded. This alone offsets the cost of the Warranty. My engine has been out twice each time being covered by Warranty. Once for the TC and once for the Transmission. In one of those instances they also agreed to cover replacing the EGT sensors and Valve Cover Gaskets as a preventive Maintenance measure while the Engine was out. Just my opinion, but a Warranty is a must..........................

[Spidercat]

Thanks for the tip! I might stop in a local indy shop to get an idea of their pricing. By the way, how much were you quoted for a Fidelity Platinum plan?

It was a couple years ago, but I wanna say between $7-7.5K? I got the Gold Plus for I think $4.5K? Not too sure, since I keep the work records in the car. I'll check tonight on my way home, but it may be moot, since they may not offer this anymore. Also, my car had 59K mi at the time.

[ttboost]

Everything!! LOL...

[eanders]

I have 51,000 miles.

Below are a list of major and most recent repairs (receipts from previous owner). I put the dealership cost in as a reference for folks.

39,056 miles
DRC suspension service - Warranty (no cost listed)
Left front CV boot - $337.20
Replace upper control arm bushings - $571.64
4 Wheel Alignment - $99.95

47,038 miles
Front Brakes - $1763.36
Rear Brakes - $1371.28
Fuel Tank Rollover Valve Nipple (this included: JY recall, Bold, Rep Sep, Gasket, Clamp, Mixing Jet, Adhesive) - Warranty (no cost listed)
45000 mile service - $250.00
Oil Change + BG MOA + BG 44K - $225.65
BG Brake Flush (recommended q2yrs) - $142.13
BG front differential fluid exchange (synthetic) - $127.84
BG power steering fluid exchange (synthetic) - $147.40

47,156
Torch converter clutch replaced
Replaced transmission fluid and filter
Install new transmission pan gasket
Replace right front CV boot
Total visit - $6474.89

Feel free to comment on the above list.

Being cheap, I did not want to spend $5000 on a warranty and then have to fight with them to have work covered. Reading forum comments on warranties, I sense I could be short sighted.

What are the major repairs I should be worried about at this point?

Should I absolutely be in search of a warranty company?

Thank you in advance for your input.

Please see the thread I started about a week ago... http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/24......-exorbitant

If you find a warranty company that is legit (note 90+ percent are not) and will write the Beast at a fair price please share it. I was looking at something like $7,500 with a $250 deductible. Here's a big learning... if you buy the car from Audi, they will write a warranty on it. If you are like me, and didn't buy from Audi, they won't. I don't think you can get the great Fidelity warranty that everyone raves about. Please let me know directly if you come up with one. I am planning $3-4k per year on this car, hope it doesn't go north of that.

[twinsteve]

Please see the thread I started about a week ago... http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/24......-exorbitant

If you find a warranty company that is legit (note 90+ percent are not) and will write the Beast at a fair price please share it. I was looking at something like $7,500 with a $250 deductible. Here's a big learning... if you buy the car from Audi, they will write a warranty on it. If you are like me, and didn't buy from Audi, they won't. I don't think you can get the great Fidelity warranty that everyone raves about. Please let me know directly if you come up with one. I am planning $3-4k per year on this car, hope it doesn't go north of that.

I didn't buy my car from Audi, buy they did indeed sell me a Fidelity Platinum policy.....they just required an Audi dealer to do PPI-type inspection first to check for pre-existing conditions

[eanders]

I didn't buy my car from Audi, buy they did indeed sell me a Fidelity Platinum policy.....they just required an Audi dealer to do PPI-type inspection first to check for pre-existing conditions

I will call my Audi dealer in the morning and see if that's a possibility... is not something he offered when I first spoke with him. Thanks for sharing. If anyone else has a good extended warranty company to share please do so.

[ben916]

Ben, what warranty do you have? You got a great deal.

I paid more than that for the Gold Plus coverage from Fidelity, and they will not cover the oil cooler pipe since it's not specifically on the list of "covered" items. I've been just keeping the coolant topped off since it's such a slow leak (for the moment, anyway) until something else comes up that require engine removal.

To the OP, as Ben points out, engine removal is expensive. So one big "oh, crap" (valve cover gasket, TC, oil cooler tube, etc.) and the warranty has paid for itself. These are not uncommon problems. No one can give you an expected frequency that they will occur. Just always have some money in the bank for when they do if you decide to forego the warranty.
Also, a good Indy shop may be able to do some of these things without removing the engine, but the dealer won't (or at least won't pass the savings on to you, I bet).

Mine is Protective/Prism Supreme with a differential for AWD and Turbo, deductible is $200.
I will be calling them for then next 3yr/36k in Jan 2013 (assuming the Mayan predictions are incorrect)