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Thread: Road Course Racing. Who Does it with their RS6?

  1. #19
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    I don't know what your experience was like with your s4 but I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't burn any oil. I checked before leaving the track for the drive home each day expecting to need to add some oil, but even after 8 track sessions over 2 days she was good to go. I was pretty impressed with that from a high HP turbo engine that had the oil temps pushed more than I had ever done to a car before.

    Having said that, I am however following the recommendation of some of the more experienced guys that run the nasa event and am changing the oil following each track weekend. That sounds to me like relatively cheap preventative measure.

  2. #20
    Moderator Benman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter View Post

    Having said that, I am however following the recommendation of some of the more experienced guys that run the nasa event and am changing the oil following each track weekend. That sounds to me like relatively cheap preventative measure.
    Sounds pretty reasonable to me!
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  3. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin9212 View Post
    I do road course often with the S4, not now that I sold it, but I am aware of road course routine. I am not new to the game, just the car. I was really just looking for how long it takes the Oil Temp, Trans Temp, and Coolant Temp to get to an unsafe level. Not in theory, but from actual experience. I have the tires, brakes, and fluids to handle the track.
    it's not so clean to do on an Audi as I did with my Skyline - have 13 gauges littered around the dash. But knowing exact oil temp, water temp, and transmission temp would be very, very useful.
    Das Silberkugel - Eurocharged Stage 2/MTM/Level 10/Hotchkis/Koni/H&R
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  4. #22
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    All went well today, other than finding out my suspension is beat. The car did very well heat wise too, better than I expected. 20min sessions and temps never got too hot. I'll be starting a new thread soon about this suspension though.
    www.jsmotorcar.com

  5. #23
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    Glad it went well Justin ! I found the Hotchkiss anti-sway bars made a huge difference in the handling and would definitely recommend them i think you were probably refering to your DRC but thought id just mention the sway bars cause not only do they flatten out the corners with the stiffer setting this heavy beast will actually oversteer nicely if you brake early and dont shed too much speed and have the resolve to point her into the corner with enough speed. Just remember to be ready to apply a dab of throttle when you feel the tail starr to come around .

    I'm back out today for the 2nd day of my weekend at MMP we are running the West track this weekend last month was the EAST track but i cant wait for July when its the full track, man that will be a lot of corners each lap. My brain will be tired!

    Tidbits from yesterday. I was curious so i cleared out the onboard liar computer and it said i got 6 mpg all day and over 4 20 min sessions i clocked 92 mi

  6. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter View Post
    Tidbits from yesterday. I was curious so i cleared out the onboard liar computer and it said i got 6 mpg all day and over 4 20 min sessions i clocked 92 mi
    I had done the same and came up with the same results, also noticed that with the instant MPG screen 6mpg was the lowest I saw. I clocked 97mi on track.
    www.jsmotorcar.com

  7. #25
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    In late but see below:

    What gets hot? Brakes and Heat Soak
    What can I do to keep temps down? Brake Duct Upgrade, SS Brake Lines, Hawk Pads, Motul 660 Fluid. Sportec splash shield mod drops temps 40 degrees for me.
    What are the things to keep an eye out for that most may for get to keep an eye on?

    I'd add a REAR sway bar and keep the front stock.. but I has Stasis coil overs. Add Michlen PS Cups and never look back...

    I was a fast in fast out kinda guy AND would go through front brakes in a weekend , but you do have to pay to play, right?

    S
    "You have first to experience what you want to express" (V. Van Gogh)

  8. #26
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    I have to agree with the comments. I did Chinn Motorsport this weekend going into the weekend I knew the brakes were not 100% but my mechanics and I thought we would be ok. In my fourth session when I was really getting great lap times I noticed that the brake pedal starting to get softer. Of course I mentioned that to the instructor and he kept having me push. As I was about to pass a 911 in turn 16, slow driver, the pedal went very soft and the brake pad warning light came on. Lets just say the sensor doesn't give you much warning the pads were essentially gone. I was able to put enough fluid to bleed the brakes and get home. The rotors were shot anyway so any more damage was no big deal. New tires Michelin Super Sport, new KW3s, not new brakes (fail). The car is hard on brake on the track. I will be upgrading the pads, fluid etc. Sucks I missed the duct buy.

    I used Harry laptimer for lap timing but didn't get all the laps. , I will upload GoPro video later. I had a blast and will do it again but i have to say got a ride in my friends 2011 GT3 and that was an experience.
    RS6 2003 Mugello , silver, carbon, Revo, KW3s, Hotchkis sway bars, Custom exhaust, Hawk HPS pads, RNS-E, Bluetooth, 19" BBS CH(Black)

  9. #27
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    did you have ESP on or off? ESP does put a lot of extra stress on the brakes.

    I know I've said it before, but there is simply no brake fluid as good as Castrol SRF. If it's good enough for Formula 1, it surely will get you through a trackday!
    Das Silberkugel - Eurocharged Stage 2/MTM/Level 10/Hotchkis/Koni/H&R
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  10. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by kismetcapitan View Post
    did you have ESP on or off? ESP does put a lot of extra stress on the brakes.

    I know I've said it before, but there is simply no brake fluid as good as Castrol SRF. If it's good enough for Formula 1, it surely will get you through a trackday!
    I like to keep the traction control off, however, instructors have told me that if it's on and is engaging, I'm doing something wrong. That I need to get smoother. Slower is faster, ect ect.

    As far as brake fluid, kistme is right the SRF is superior brake fluid. It's just so damn expensive. I've had great luck with RBF600. I know Mad Max has used Pro Speed RS683 with good results too.
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  11. #29
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    I had ESP on. I wasn't sure which way to go but I agree that if I drove smoothly it shouldn't matter but next time I will try off. I dropped the car off today to get the brakes done. I am going to do OEM rotors and Hawk HPS pads.
    RS6 2003 Mugello , silver, carbon, Revo, KW3s, Hotchkis sway bars, Custom exhaust, Hawk HPS pads, RNS-E, Bluetooth, 19" BBS CH(Black)

  12. #30
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Running the OEM rotors and HPS pads, works good, mild around the city, not much dust, decent bite out on the back road corners. Not sure if you might want more for a track pad though, but they work good, and get better when heated up which is nice! I think the hps+ can squeal some, and have more dust, but more bite for track...
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  13. #31
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    I've been tracking my beast as well - but still fairly new at it. I've done 8 events and some of those I needed to tow the car home. OUCH! I wish I would have been told about the brake fluid, I boiled mine and barely made it off the track in one piece.....talk about an eye opener. I now run the MOTUL600 and no issues. This is what my Audi club in the NorthWest recommends.

    I haven't had any other issues with heating things up. (Knock on wood). The temps go up but cool down nicely with a simple cool down lap.

    I do seem to burn through the rotors and brake pads though. I hear there isn't anything better out there than stock rotors. I'm also trying the stoptech brake pads now. I just got them installed so I can let you know how well they work after my next event in July.

    I am interested in the brake mod though to cool down the brakes even more.
    Also does anyone run the schroth 4point harness with the stock seats?
    I was told that our RS6 seats weren't tested and we shouldn't install the Quick fit or quick fit pro. Any recommendations or experience?

    Sorry for switching topics a bit.

    Thanks

  14. #32
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    Blupstu,

    There have been a few threads referring to rotors in the past month. Here's are a couple:
    http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/24...ht=#post235654
    http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/24...ht=#post234807

    Strongly recommend the Pheaton backing plate upgrade if you're tracking.

    If you want to a larger diameter rotor with our stock caliper, look over this thread from Grizz/Unit20: http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/17...irements/page2
    *requires 19" rim minimum

    If you want a totally different brake system, ask MaxRS6 (frequent tracker) what he's using. I think it's Stoptech?

    There are also several recent threads on track pad and track tire suggestions.

    I've used the Schroth "quick connect" harnesses in my S6 Avant and RS6 and really like the system. Bought them through Anderson Motorsports (an Audi shop in MN and big track enthusiasts) They utilize the same anchor points as the factory seat belts. I like that when not needed, the harness connections tuck neatly out of sight. I'm not an engineer, so can't speak to the soundness of our seats. My anecdotal explanation is that since the harnesses synch you into place so firmly, they assist with the strain of my shifting weight and therefore reduce the stress on the seats. Does that sound reasonable? I'm open to hearing/hearing other ideas. Track instructors have mentioned that, in a roll-over, this lack of mobility could increase the chance of head/neck injury; you'll have to weigh the risk-reward here.

    Keep Flossing, dr jim
    Last edited by Amulet-S6; June 29th, 2012 at 13:44.

  15. #33
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    I think I'm doing the Sportec mod this summer. DIY with a few bucks in parts from Home Depot? Yes! I just worry slightly about hitting things - my car is very low, and I have a traumatic experience from my Skyline (which had an extended oil sump which hung very low) hitting a bump and the oil sump plug coming loose.

    I sort of agree about the ESP thing - if you're tripping it, yes, smoother is better, but it depends on how aggressive the ESP is, and it intervenes quite early.
    Das Silberkugel - Eurocharged Stage 2/MTM/Level 10/Hotchkis/Koni/H&R
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  16. #34
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Might give the track a shot with just the upgraded fluid Motul600 and my Hawk HPS pads. I know upgrades would help, but how much? Braided lines? Better pads? Phaeton mod? Which would help the most and how much, as in feels a bit better or keeps your brakes from completely going out.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  17. #35
    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUPSTU View Post
    I've been tracking my beast as well - but still fairly new at it. I've done 8 events and some of those I needed to tow the car home. OUCH! I wish I would have been told about the brake fluid, I boiled mine and barely made it off the track in one piece.....talk about an eye opener. I now run the MOTUL600 and no issues. This is what my Audi club in the NorthWest recommends.

    I haven't had any other issues with heating things up. (Knock on wood). The temps go up but cool down nicely with a simple cool down lap.

    I do seem to burn through the rotors and brake pads though. I hear there isn't anything better out there than stock rotors. I'm also trying the stoptech brake pads now. I just got them installed so I can let you know how well they work after my next event in July.

    I am interested in the brake mod though to cool down the brakes even more.
    Also does anyone run the schroth 4point harness with the stock seats?
    I was told that our RS6 seats weren't tested and we shouldn't install the Quick fit or quick fit pro. Any recommendations or experience?

    Sorry for switching topics a bit.

    Thanks
    er, have you introduced yourself? To the Seattle peeps? (not trying to be a jerk).
    I did the Phaeton brake backing plate, OEM frozen rotors and EBC Reds (not a fan, Hawks are in the future)

    Quote Originally Posted by lswing View Post
    Might give the track a shot with just the upgraded fluid Motul600 and my Hawk HPS pads. I know upgrades would help, but how much? Braided lines? Better pads? Phaeton mod? Which would help the most and how much, as in feels a bit better or keeps your brakes from completely going out.
    I went to two different indy shops (to be nameless) inquiring about the Motul600 and both stated that I wouldn't need it. I stated that there might be a chance of some tracking, they didn't seem fazed.

    It seems the consensus is that if you choose to track her:
    1. Motul600 brake fluid - keep the fluid from boiling.
    2. Phaeton backing plates - keeps the rotor somewhat cooler
    3. Braided Lines - firmer pedal (a forum member had the front left OEM line nearly worn thru and the warranty company refused to replace it - "so you would rather that I crash with no brakes than replace the line?!?!?" - no reply returned...)
    4. Expect to burn thru a set of front rotors and front pads and possibly tires.

    MaxRS6 needs a blog of his track events along with videos...
    SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
    Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared

  18. #36
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    Track Prep?

    All,
    Cheapest handling improvement you can make for the RS6 is Hotchkis H-Sport sway basr.

    The stock RS6 rotor is a heat sink? Too heavy and very small cooling vanes and the internally mounted rotor hat blocks cooling air from entering the rotor. Compare to an R8 rotor (same brake caliper as RS6) and you'll see what I mean. We had our own 2-piece rotors fabricated by Coleman racing. RS4 rotor went to 2-piece made by Brembo.

    Search the forum for JP4 or jimmy94507 posts. Lots of info on our rotor and post about Phaeton backing plate Mod.
    Check the following out for swap in replacement rotor (rotor ring looks like what Coleman provided us and hat looks similar). Link may have changed since last year? I do not know of anyone who has used this rotor. :

    JHMotorsports Brake rotors?? Ask them if Coleman makes their rotor ring. Please let me know.
    http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalo...afed668afbdcec
    Follow link to the B7 RS4.
    Diameter and thickness is same as RS6. Don't know about bolt pattern of hat/rotor ring??

    Brake Fluid - Motul RBF600, both JP4 and myself (each of us over 40 DE's, including 3 days at Daytona in 2008)
    Pagid RS-14 (black) or RS-15 (Grey, most agressive pad), We recommend RS-29 in the rear.

    Schroth harness - Started using them on my 2000 A6, 4.2 and very definitely on RS6. JP and I recommend them for anyone tracking RS6. My wife has been using them on her various TT's, now 2008 Dayton Gray TT Coupe.
    Contact Jeremy Williams at Matrix Integrated in Portland Oregon (http://www.matrixintegrated.cc/) for info and good all around technical support. Tell him Jimmy & Chris Stoner sent you.

    MTM Transmission cooler - I think I am the only RS6 in the US with this cooler installed. Quite effective.
    e-mail me if you want more info and pictures of our clean install: jimmys@cableone.net
    (Sourcing from MTM turned out to be a big challenge!!!)

    Ben916 - Do you have contact info for Headshot and could you send him my e-mail (jimmys@cableone.net)? I would like to know the measurements for cutting the access opening to adjust the KW rear shocks (if he kept his notes.)
    Does anyone else have the dimensions for this mod? Thanks,

    Miller Motorsports Park - We helped with the first Audi DE held at the track in 2006 (?). We had the benefit of the full track (smile, and no one of had ever been there before, except for Neil McGary. A real challenge for us Instructors!). A great experience for all! For our 2nd trip to MMP the students were split into 2 hour sessions on the West & East tracks, then alternated. Worked very well and then the full track the 2nd day for everyone. Great fun!

    All you track fanatics from the Southwest, especially S. CA, UT & NV, need to put Spring Mountain Motorsport Ranch, Pahrump, NV on your calendar for April, 2013. (Go to their website and check out the fantastic facility this has become!). So Cal. Chapter of Audi Club hosts a fantastic event there each spring.

    Hope some of this info helps. Feel free to contact me.
    Regards, Jimmy S.

    Quote Originally Posted by ben916 View Post
    er, have you introduced yourself? To the Seattle peeps? (not trying to be a jerk).
    I did the Phaeton brake backing plate, OEM frozen rotors and EBC Reds (not a fan, Hawks are in the future)



    I went to two different indy shops (to be nameless) inquiring about the Motul600 and both stated that I wouldn't need it. I stated that there might be a chance of some tracking, they didn't seem fazed.

    It seems the consensus is that if you choose to track her:
    1. Motul600 brake fluid - keep the fluid from boiling.
    2. Phaeton backing plates - keeps the rotor somewhat cooler
    3. Braided Lines - firmer pedal (a forum member had the front left OEM line nearly worn thru and the warranty company refused to replace it - "so you would rather that I crash with no brakes than replace the line?!?!?" - no reply returned...)
    4. Expect to burn thru a set of front rotors and front pads and possibly tires.

    MaxRS6 needs a blog of his track events along with videos...

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