Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Once you've done a few they get super easy.
What tends to happen is the bolt is slightly bent at the split. So just removing the nut and trying to hammer it out is effective trying to drive a bent bolt through a straight hole. Easiest method is to use a hacksaw and cut the bolt through at the split. Then thread the nut on and as you tighten it , it will pull the now cut threaded piece through. You will have to put washers or a spacer under the nut once you get to the shank of the bolt but it only takes a few tries. Once this is out, you now have a clear shot at punching out the remaining part of the bolt. As the bolt is no longer bent/pinched it will punch out easy, even if it's corroded. Your welcome.
2010 XC90 exec, winter machine (V8 of course)
2004 RS6 official Canadian edition, Daytona grey, (best colour!), summer edition
2011 Q7 TDI, general alrounder
Forgot to say in your case, drive the bolt back to flush first, then cut it.
2010 XC90 exec, winter machine (V8 of course)
2004 RS6 official Canadian edition, Daytona grey, (best colour!), summer edition
2011 Q7 TDI, general alrounder
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
I had one of those nasty things locked up on an A6 that I was working on...it was a NY state car with 200k, and everything was seized as you can imagine, especially suspension stuff. In any case, mine was so corroded, that it was truly impossible to get out without drilling. Schwaben makes a tool for just this purpose with a guide, drill bits, etc. that did the job, but it literally took me a few days off and on to not get too frustrated with the slow progress. Supposedly, you can use the tool with the suspension in place, but I couldn't imagine the stiff neck and shoulders that you'd get without having it out on the bench like I did. Plan on 5-6 hours of slow drilling once it's in a position to work on if it comes down to a drill-out solution. Definitely buy the tool as you'll never get close to drilling it out straight without it.
A few notes, you can leave the top bolt in if you take the entire unit out at the top hat, but you can't get the top arm bolts out without removing as they'll foul on the fender. Also, don't be tempted to try to pry the split open at all to try to free up or get penetrating oil in there...if you crack that, you'll be replacing it (ask me how I know on another older Audi project)...
Good luck and be patient!
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Good thing is that you aren't seized with corrosion...that's where my problem was for the drill out. I would turn the bolt back in and cut it off with a very thin kerf hacksaw/sawzall/dremel blade at the split. Remove the nut side which should come out easily...most likely bent right at the pinch point, so if you cut it there, a little help with a punch while turning the bolt head and it should come out. Again, don't be tempted to drive a wedge into that upright split, you will crack an ear and then be in for a full upright replacement.
Good luck with this!
Make sure you apply a liberal amount of anti-seeze on the bolt upon re-assembly to prevent this in the future.
2003 Avus RS6 | 10SECS4 Tune | GIAC TCU | Apikol Intake | Apikol Intercoolers | Miltek & Catless | KW V3 | Hotckis Sway bars | 034 Control arms & end links | Euro RS6 Recaro seats | RS6+ pedals
Yes i will👍
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
For the rear shocks, is it required to take off the diskbrake and caliper ?
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Last edited by kilian tuning; July 19th, 2021 at 08:02.
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Personally, I wouldn't worry about that...
Anyone can assist with where to source hydraulic line plugs to all 4 corners?
Current: Black Pearl Metallic Effect/Ebony, RNS-E, Euro + pedals, oCarbon, Hotchkiss Front & Rear Sway Bars, Koni Yellow's
Are you talking about plugs for the DRC? If so I may have a set. I think my KWV3's came with plugs years ago and I probably threw them in my Toolbox as I ripped out all of the DRC hardlines.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Super huge thanks to hahnmgh63 & Muggy for the generous assistance and insight!!!
My mechanic has asked me to check here to ask about a few things he wants to know...he has the rear koni's set to the 2nd lower setting and is happy with that however with respect to the front he suggested he is not 100% happy with the springs as he is a perfectionist and suggested I grab springs from a C5 4.2 or S6 does this sound like a good direction to head in seeing as the Koni's were designed for A6 platform and we are using them for off label purposes in the RS6 suspension?
Also was asked which sway bar links are best to pair with the Hotchkiss setup?
Thank you everyone!
Current: Black Pearl Metallic Effect/Ebony, RNS-E, Euro + pedals, oCarbon, Hotchkiss Front & Rear Sway Bars, Koni Yellow's