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Thread: Completed: DIY DRC removal/swap with Koni Yellow Sports....

  1. #181
    Registered User kilian tuning's Avatar
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    So i made a start today dismantle the front suspension.
    This bugger one is in rock solid, tried abusing the housing with a hammer, tried to turn the bold, nothing seems to work.
    Sprayed with wd40 couple times.
    Are there more options to get it loose without distroying the bold and drill it out?




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  2. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by kilian tuning View Post
    So i made a start today dismantle the front suspension.
    This bugger one is in rock solid, tried abusing the housing with a hammer, tried to turn the bold, nothing seems to work.
    Sprayed with wd40 couple times.
    Are there more options to get it loose without distroying the bold and drill it out?




    Once you've done a few they get super easy.
    What tends to happen is the bolt is slightly bent at the split. So just removing the nut and trying to hammer it out is effective trying to drive a bent bolt through a straight hole. Easiest method is to use a hacksaw and cut the bolt through at the split. Then thread the nut on and as you tighten it , it will pull the now cut threaded piece through. You will have to put washers or a spacer under the nut once you get to the shank of the bolt but it only takes a few tries. Once this is out, you now have a clear shot at punching out the remaining part of the bolt. As the bolt is no longer bent/pinched it will punch out easy, even if it's corroded. Your welcome.
    2010 XC90 exec, winter machine (V8 of course)
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  3. #183
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    Forgot to say in your case, drive the bolt back to flush first, then cut it.
    2010 XC90 exec, winter machine (V8 of course)
    2004 RS6 official Canadian edition, Daytona grey, (best colour!), summer edition
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  4. #184
    Registered User kilian tuning's Avatar
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    Hi,

    Tanks alot for your input.
    Thinking about it, is it possible to get it loose not at the pinchbold but at the top of the toparms?

    Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
    MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
    MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control

  5. #185
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    I had one of those nasty things locked up on an A6 that I was working on...it was a NY state car with 200k, and everything was seized as you can imagine, especially suspension stuff. In any case, mine was so corroded, that it was truly impossible to get out without drilling. Schwaben makes a tool for just this purpose with a guide, drill bits, etc. that did the job, but it literally took me a few days off and on to not get too frustrated with the slow progress. Supposedly, you can use the tool with the suspension in place, but I couldn't imagine the stiff neck and shoulders that you'd get without having it out on the bench like I did. Plan on 5-6 hours of slow drilling once it's in a position to work on if it comes down to a drill-out solution. Definitely buy the tool as you'll never get close to drilling it out straight without it.

    A few notes, you can leave the top bolt in if you take the entire unit out at the top hat, but you can't get the top arm bolts out without removing as they'll foul on the fender. Also, don't be tempted to try to pry the split open at all to try to free up or get penetrating oil in there...if you crack that, you'll be replacing it (ask me how I know on another older Audi project)...

    Good luck and be patient!

  6. #186
    Registered User kilian tuning's Avatar
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    Used some heat and the bolt is coming out some distance.
    Its turning very heavy and wont come out any further...
    I can feel due to resistance the bolt is bend...

    Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
    MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
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  7. #187
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    Good thing is that you aren't seized with corrosion...that's where my problem was for the drill out. I would turn the bolt back in and cut it off with a very thin kerf hacksaw/sawzall/dremel blade at the split. Remove the nut side which should come out easily...most likely bent right at the pinch point, so if you cut it there, a little help with a punch while turning the bolt head and it should come out. Again, don't be tempted to drive a wedge into that upright split, you will crack an ear and then be in for a full upright replacement.

    Good luck with this!

  8. #188
    Registered User kilian tuning's Avatar
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    Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
    MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
    MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control

  9. #189
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    Make sure you apply a liberal amount of anti-seeze on the bolt upon re-assembly to prevent this in the future.
    2003 Avus RS6 | 10SECS4 Tune | GIAC TCU | Apikol Intake | Apikol Intercoolers | Miltek & Catless | KW V3 | Hotckis Sway bars | 034 Control arms & end links | Euro RS6 Recaro seats | RS6+ pedals

  10. #190
    Registered User kilian tuning's Avatar
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    Yes i will👍
    Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
    MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
    MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control

  11. #191
    Registered User kilian tuning's Avatar
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    For the rear shocks, is it required to take off the diskbrake and caliper ?
    Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
    MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
    MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control

  12. #192
    Registered User kilian tuning's Avatar
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    Uhhh, ok....
    It looks like the top of the shock assembly is turned around 11 degrees as compared to the bottom mounting point.
    Is that the same on all cars?





    Last edited by kilian tuning; July 19th, 2021 at 08:02.
    Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
    MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
    MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control

  13. #193
    Registered User kilian tuning's Avatar
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    I just noticed the rubber part in the top strut has kind of moved a bit outwards as can be seen in the pic.
    Dont tell me the shock has to come out to re-align it?





    I see when the old shock came out, the rubber part kind of is in the same position...


    Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
    MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
    MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control

  14. #194
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    Personally, I wouldn't worry about that...

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