JH rotors

[johnnie27]

Hi all , anyone running the JH rotors?? i am up for new ones

front and rear, the price in oz is too big to fit on this screen, over $4500.00

i saw then online, being 2 piece you can just buy the outers next time around

$750 for the fronts , $650 for the rears

over 20lbs lighter??

are they any good

also apologies about the wheel offset help....i purchased some 12mm spacers and guess what they still (just clearend the fenders) so i have ordered some 19x9.5 et 30 rims

i figured MTM cant be wrong hey , as there wheel is designed for the Rs6 and is a 19x9.5 et 30

so i am a tad excited.....9 weeks to go!

cheers all john

and sorry for breaking everyones balls on the wheel fitment....to my eye it looked impossible....i will not be affraid again!

[Chung]

I purchased my car with the JHM Rotors so I don't know the difference in feeling. It stops though.

[MaxRS6]

..... It stops though.

^ That is a good thing...;00

Hmmm- Interesting thread topic might be "Stopping distance". Maybe we can get some comparatives for funs sake as lots of variables (tires, brake setup, road conditions, etc, etc..) will be in play. However; it might be fun to see who can get their beast to zero from 60, 80, 100, 140, & 160.

[johnnie27]

I purchased my car with the JHM Rotors so I don't know the difference in feeling. It stops though.

mate could you tell me , any wobbles under heavy breaking??
and can you add a pic side on of the car so i can see how the rotors look>?? please

thanks again

john

[aussie rs6]

Hi John,

I have just installed the full C6 brake setup kit from Unit20

1 set C6 front pads
2 front C6 discs
2 front C6 calipers
2 front C5 wheel brgs
2 front C5 drive flanges
Approx price for kit with shipping to Oz is ~A$ 4,200 /USD$4,150.
Braking is now phenomenal and i can highly recommend this upgrade to serious spirited C5 drivers , along with the phaeton air scoop kit from unit20. Rotors almost fill the 19 " wheels!
Ironically, C6 rotors and pads are cheaper than C5 rotors and pads!

all the best,
john

ps i may have a set of miltek catless 3 inch dps going into 2.5" pipes just ahead of main cats, still in box, for sale shortly, if you are interested. cost to me landed in perth was A$1300.

[johnnie27]

Hi John,

I have just installed the full C6 brake setup kit from Unit20

1 set C6 front pads
2 front C6 discs
2 front C6 calipers
2 front C5 wheel brgs
2 front C5 drive flanges
Approx price for kit with shipping to Oz is ~A$ 4,200 /USD$4,150.
Braking is now phenomenal and i can highly recommend this upgrade to serious spirited C5 drivers , along with the phaeton air scoop kit from unit20. Rotors almost fill the 19 " wheels!
Ironically, C6 rotors and pads are cheaper than C5 rotors and pads!

all the best,
john

ps i may have a set of miltek catless 3 inch dps going into 2.5" pipes just ahead of main cats, still in box, for sale shortly, if you are interested. cost to me landed in perth was A$1300.

wow john, you have really gone to town on your beast!! sounds awesome 390mm rotors!!!

i'd love the down pipes , but not sure if i can justify the fitting cost!! it seems to be a massive job

have a sfae christmas, and we'll have a chat in the new year, thanks for the reply

[as350]

John, that is a pretty damn nice setup!

Back to the OP, I was || this close to pulling the trigger on JHM rotors, but decided at the last minute to stick with OEM.

Here's why: If you shop around a bit, you can get a relatively decent price on OEM rotors vs. the JHM setup. I ended up going through www.genuineaudiparts.com and it cost me less than $1100 including shipping for OEM rotors. JHM runs you around $1450 the first time and then just shy of $1000 the following replacement cycles. At current prices I would have to go through 4 sets of rotors to justify the higher upfront cost of JHM. At the current rate, this means I'd have to own the RS6 for another 200K miles - I currently drive it less than 6000 miles a year and will hence never reach the break even point of the JHM setup. I also did a fair amount of research on JHM and I most definitely don't want to start a flame war, but there are a few websites out there that don't speak very highly of the company. Take a look at http://jhmotorsports-sucks.com/ and make up your own mind. Granted, most of the complaints on that website deal with clutch failures and have nothing to do with brake systems, but the way JHM has dealt with the failures speaks volumes in my book.

I replaced rotors and pads this weekend. It is a very easy DIY job that anyone can do that knows the difference between a flathead and a phillips screwdriver and has a floor jack other than the Audi trunk widow maker. It took me a bit over 2 hours to do the left side because I was taking lots of pictures as I was going along and had several coffee breaks. The right side was done in 1.5 hrs and I wasn't trying to go fast. Realistically, you could do rotors and pads in less than 3 hours if you don't lollygag along the way.

Oh, I purchased EBS Yellows to go along with the OEM rotors - report so far after about 60 miles is a definite thumbs up! The Yellows have a nice bite. Time will tell how much dust they make and how abrasive they are to the rotors.

[johnnie27]

John, that is a pretty damn nice setup!

Back to the OP, I was || this close to pulling the trigger on JHM rotors, but decided at the last minute to stick with OEM.

Here's why: If you shop around a bit, you can get a relatively decent price on OEM rotors vs. the JHM setup. I ended up going through www.genuineaudiparts.com and it cost me less than $1100 including shipping for OEM rotors. JHM runs you around $1450 the first time and then just shy of $1000 the following replacement cycles. At current prices I would have to go through 4 sets of rotors to justify the higher upfront cost of JHM. At the current rate, this means I'd have to own the RS6 for another 200K miles - I currently drive it less than 6000 miles a year and will hence never reach the break even point of the JHM setup. I also did a fair amount of research on JHM and I most definitely don't want to start a flame war, but there are a few websites out there that don't speak very highly of the company. Take a look at http://jhmotorsports-sucks.com/ and make up your own mind. Granted, most of the complaints on that website deal with clutch failures and have nothing to do with brake systems, but the way JHM has dealt with the failures speaks volumes in my book.

I replaced rotors and pads this weekend. It is a very easy DIY job that anyone can do that knows the difference between a flathead and a phillips screwdriver and has a floor jack other than the Audi trunk widow maker. It took me a bit over 2 hours to do the left side because I was taking lots of pictures as I was going along and had several coffee breaks. The right side was done in 1.5 hrs and I wasn't trying to go fast. Realistically, you could do rotors and pads in less than 3 hours if you don't lollygag along the way.

Oh, I purchased EBS Yellows to go along with the OEM rotors - report so far after about 60 miles is a definite thumbs up! The Yellows have a nice bite. Time will tell how much dust they make and how abrasive they are to the rotors.

thanks mate, yeah my gut is telling me go oem, esp if there is an issue as i cant send them back
ECS tunning has the oem rotors around $1400 delivered to me in oz (shipping was around $300) thanks i really apriciate the write up and effort you made on this post.) i only do around 8,000 miles a year and figured with non oem pads that the oem disks will last longer those sensors are a bugger! as they only tell you there is an issue once they have scored the disk! or it seems that way to me anyhow

thanks again js

[as350]

I had the same problem as you did. My OEM pads scoured the rotors pretty bad.

Here is a picture of the old rotors, clearly showing the deep grooves cut into them by the pads.




And here you can see the culprit. Brass brads holding the pad material to the back of the pad are clearly visible. There is still plenty of pad material, so the pads destroy the rotors long before you get down to the sensor that triggers the brake pad warning light.

[lswing]

I had the same problem as you did. My OEM pads scoured the rotors pretty bad.

Here is a picture of the old rotors, clearly showing the deep grooves cut into them by the pads.




And here you can see the culprit. Brass brads holding the pad material to the back of the pad are clearly visible. There is still plenty of pad material, so the pads destroy the rotors long before you get down to the sensor that triggers the brake pad warning light.

My pads did the same thing to me, started wearing lines in the rotor with the pins, still about 3/4 of the pad left, wth type of design is that?