Here ya go. I/C in water. Blowing more bubbles than Shamu. Won't even get the air compressor off the stop for pressure. Quick trip down to the radiator shop. "I can't fix that" he says. Yikes! so choices are what? Wagners and no wife (hmmmm). No Wagners and a cobbled together eBay compilation of crap (actually some great deals, but can't find one that would come close to fitting. JB Weld!! but it has to be clean and I'm not even close. I love the Wagners...but the wife...
Yikes I guess! Did the guy say why not? I would try to call a couple more places.
Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats
There's a great thread on here about the JB weld fix, or find a local welder might be better, that's what my shop was going to do if I had leaks...good luck!
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
As I understand it, the bar and plate type that we have cracks at the corners. If it is just the outside of the corner bars it can be welded/ JB weld or whatever. If the crack has propagated to the bottom side of the bar (under the heat sink) the only way to fix it is to remove that portion of the heat sink to weld or epoxy. Beginning to think the Wagners are a deal for the engineering into them but can't (I mean can't as in sleeping in the basement two kids in college can't) spend the money.
JRRS6 has a set off the car that is JB welded up I believe, ask him. No reason to spend the cash on Wagners unless under special circumstances...
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
JB weld or another epoxy sounds like a good bet to me. You don't have anything to lose, unless you discover an amazing TIG welder living down the block tomorrow...
FWIW I once epoxied a thermistor to the original intercooler on my S4. (Ok, I'm a nerd.) Years later, after I had upgraded to a front mount unit, I was getting ready to sell the stock one, and tried to remove the thermistor. The epoxy was much stronger than the aluminum, as I found out when I gave it a yank with pliers and promptly tore a hole in the intercooler.
Maybe you could have the unit professionally cleaned -- acid tank, ultrasonic, whatever.
Cleaning the cooler, drilling out the heat sink between the outside bar and the second one so I can get JB on the back side of the bar. Trying to take my time. Steep learning curve (already nicked one bar) but nothing to lose really. Clean, sand and clean some more. Only really one shot at this because if it's not clean it wont seal.
Wife wants the I/C off the kitchen table. I don't know why. Sealing one side almost done. Takes forever when you don't know what you are doing and JB takes 12 hours to dry.
Really? You don't know why? I just have to ask - did you not have another location available? I'd kill my husband if he did any such thing with my kitchen or dining room table... to monopolize it with a large piece of metal...Originally Posted by 905084
Wife wants the I/C off the kitchen table. I don't know why.
Wifey is very tolerant. I wouldn't ask to move it... I would just find another spot.
Daily Drivers: 2002 Mercedes E55 AMG, Brilliant Silver, Autoadapt Menox control, hard-wired Valentine 1 | Ki Tsunami Titanium w/ Spinergy SPOX, Jay J2 Seatback, Jay J3 cushion, 2.5 degree camber
You could also buy these! Just happened to run across them in the classifieds!
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/2786520887.html
Those are yokust's (on here)
SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared
Those I/C's look nice, but I got to figure I'd eventually have the same problem unless you reinforced them before dropping them in. Guess I will probably stick with mine as they came up virtually leak free this morning. Hopefully last a few years.
Should have them off the table tomorrow Pixie! I didn't have anywhere else to do it. Transmission in the bathtub, rotors on the coffee table, intake manifold in the kitchen sink,etc,etc. After 25 years, the wife is used to my idiosyncrasies I guess.
Some intercooler pics and repairs.
I/C lower tank JB welded
Upper tank. Just flowed the JB weld thinned with acetone and distributed with a syringe from Walgreens.
Right I/C reinstalled. Car still drives like crap, so I don't think the the I/C was the main problem, but it was one of them.
Left I/C pulled as an assembly (I/C, aux radiator, and rear plastics). So quick and easy when you do it this way. Leaks badly.
Clearing out the heat sink on the bar to seal the underside if it's leaking. The bottom tank seems to be our biggest problem as it only has one mounting point and takes most of the torsional stress.
I/C's are back in, bumper on, looks like a car again! Still runs horribly at certain rpm's Tach fluctuates 50 rpm and can definitely feel the car cut in and out. Still the following codes:
17416 P1008 MAF 1/2 sensor implausible
17536 P1128 Bank 1 too lean
17538 P1130 Bank 2 too lean
Called Apikol to oreder the MAF seals 'cause I'm out of options. Great guys and great service. Should have them here by next week to install and continue troubleshooting. Brendan at Apikol even knew my car and said it had the Sportec chip and Sportec TCU...
When you take the airbox off to replace the seals, maybe you want to double check all of the vacuum lines... I suppose any leaks after the MAFs could result in lean codes.
I am tempted to pull my ICs and check them for leaks while I have the front apart and the coolant drained, but I'm not sure I want to know...
^Ignorance is not bliss on these things...I say take a look..My less than .03 worth
210K miles rolled
If you have the front off the I/C's are worth it to check for sure. J/B weld seems to be the only viable option if you don't have 2k for the Wags (which I don't). My I'C's are good (or at least good enough) so I'm on to other leaks including any vacuum leaks I can find. Some vacuum line between the injector air pump solenoid (I believe) came apart in my hand while I had the airbox off. To be replaced tomorrow.
Well, I pulled my intercoolers today, and it looks like I'm in the same boat. The left one leaks badly, and the right one also leaks. Guess I'll give the JB Weld a shot.
Also noticed my right side aux radiator has some red gunk on it. Looks like that leaks too, slowly. I'm considering an aux rad delete. Doubt it would save much weight but it would free up some space. I have no plans to move to the desert or take the RS6 to a road course, so it seems like a safe bet.
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