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Thread: Last attempt to save my JHM rotors..

  1. #55
    Registered User Brav's Avatar
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    Not be what you described. The pitting is between the aluminum h&r spacer and the aluminum rotor hat. Not the wheel.
    03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
    "Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want."

  2. #56
    Registered User Brav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin View Post
    That's strange looking stuff.. If you lived in the snow belt I just say it's road salt corrosion. Your car spend a lot of time next to coast?


    No snow. And only one of four corners. Maybe loose? Debris sandwiched in?
    03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
    "Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want."

  3. #57
    Registered User skribe's Avatar
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    Right, not the wheel, the hat. Still saying galvanic corrosion, can be accelerated by contaminants (salts and whatnot.)
    Can't imagine any other way this could happen when everything is bolted securely together.

  4. #58
    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    Chris, how flat are the spacers and how flat are the hubs?
    It almost looks like there is unusual contact, meaning high points, on the either the hub or the spacer or both...
    SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
    Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared

  5. #59
    Registered User Brav's Avatar
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    The spacers are H&R 5mm, design you can see in the photos. The JHM rotors don't sit exactly "flush" with the flared backing of the center bore of the hub. I don't know if this is a problem or not since once bolted down it should all be flat. They were brand new spacers, and i took a wire brush to the hubs a long time ago, so should have been flat.
    03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
    "Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want."

  6. #60
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    I have always smeared a fine coating of Anit-seize on the backs of my rims or spacers to keep from that happening.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  7. #61
    Registered User skribe's Avatar
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    Who knows, the wire brush could have left steel fragments that caused a galvanic condition?

    What hahn said, I coat surfaces with a thin layer of synthetic grease when I mount my wheels... Started doing that years ago when a hub-centric ring fused onto the hub and prevented me from changing a flat on the side of the road on my '85 gti...

  8. #62
    Registered User Brav's Avatar
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    Another update since my last visit to Raven. (at this point they have installed new front Axles, one Raxle I had and one OEM for the passenger front, as well as new tie rods, and did an alignment).

    In an attempt to finally put my vibration issue to rest, we swapped the front rotors and all wheels from Ravens shop RS6 (thanks guys!!). They really suspected the JHMs due to past issues with other cars with them. Although there was a SLIGHT decrease in vibration (which is somewhat intermittent, so hard to say if it really changed), it could have been due to the fact I was rolling on skinny 18s and not my fatty 19s. We didnt have a spare set of rear rotors to test.. So the end verdict: NOT the rotors.. at least fronts.

    So then we put the car on the rack, got Riccardo in the driver seat and put her in gear to inspect all the rolling bits in motion, while under the car. My driver front wheel had the most noticeable vibration. Swapped wheels and noticed the same. We even ran them with just the rotors, which didnt work very well. The things we noticed: driver side front drive shaft (from RAXLES) had some visible woble to the axle at speed. It was slight, but maybe enough to transfer to the chassis. The trans coupling and the coupling at the hub appeared to be rotating smoothly. The drive shaft in the center appeared to be OK, but personally I noticed a very very slight wobble/vibration. Raven said it was OK. One rear wheel had a slight bend, but in looking at the rotation it did not appear out of round, and no vibration.

    A few months back, I had replaced the passenger lower rear inside control arm bushing, because it had slid apart somehow.. this was only after 9 months from when I installed the entire control arm kit from 034 Motorsport. Maybe I didnt get the heavy duty one? see attached pic. Anyway, we went to replace it, and the new bushing would not fit, it was 1mm off in size... strange? so I had to replace the whole control arm (passenger side) with OEM so I could go home that day.. the driver side I left alone. But maybe this side is about to blow up as well? is there a REAL difference that could cause my vibration issue due to different bushings?

    I really have replaced EVERYTHING so far, except for center drive shaft/carrier bearing, and wheel bearings (which dont evidence any issue so far).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
    "Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want."

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