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Thread: whoosh whoosh, and what's up with all these mushy bushings?

  1. #1
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    whoosh whoosh, and what's up with all these mushy bushings?

    replaced rear tires, and now my car's pulling right. So here's my next batch of questions...

    1) when I hit a hard bump, my shocks make a "whoosh" sound. Does this mean the struts are going out?

    2) 80mph vibration is still there, albeit at a lower level. I'm going to do a alignment, mostly to rule it out. At this point, I'm beginning to suspect early stages of DRC death, worn front suspension bushings, or both?

    3) No wonder the steering feel is a bit numb - there are so many damned mushy bushings EVERYWHERE in the suspension links. btw, why must front control arms be replaced? Why not replace just the bushings?

    4) list of parts to do a complete rebuild of the front suspension? the vibration, as light as it is, definitely absolutely comes from the front.

    5) don't tell me that the DRC parts are only warrantied for 12 months....are they??

    6) I've done some searching but haven't found a definitive answer: what if I just want to replace the struts, put my H&R springs on those, and bolt them in? At this point I know I should have just bought coilovers, but when I ordered my H&R springs, my DRC had no issues.

    So is the "whoosh" when hitting hard bumps a warming sign? Do people generally just replace the control arms, or are there complete bushing kits to replace all the bushings? Or...could it be a problem with the engine mounts?

    Best sport struts to use with the RS6?

    Or maybe my other Continentals are bad? They're balanced, but maybe one of them also is developing sidewall damage?

    FINALLY...how does the car tell you that it's not happy with a wheel diameter difference that exceeds tolerances? The Nissan Skyline (I know, I'm always referring back to this damned car), is essentially rear-wheel drive, and a gauge indicates how much the fronts are engaged via a computer-controlled 14-plate hydraulic clutch. If the rears are smaller than the front, the car interprets this as the rears spinning slightly, and the AWD gauge will show the front wheels progressively engaging slightly. For that car, if one pair is slightly bigger than the other, the smaller wheels go up front to avoid pissing off the AWD computer.

    But with the Torsen system, how does the car tell you it's not happy? I think I'm within range - my front Continentals have 9/32 tread depth, my brand new Hankooks 10/32. But I know that Hankooks tend to run a little smaller in diameter. I'm going to measure the wheel diameters unweighted, but some insight into this would be very helpful, as our center diffs are working 100% of the time.

    Thanks for reading my ramblings...(if you've read down this far :P)
    Das Silberkugel - Eurocharged Stage 2/MTM/Level 10/Hotchkis/Koni/H&R
    2015 Ducati 1299S Panigale
    2014 Ducati Multistrada Granturismo

  2. #2
    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    I drive over the side of a speed bump with the windows down at different speeds to listen to the whoosh.
    I have the same thing whooshing all round and a clunk in the trunk...
    I gotta get that $hit fixed...

    If you have the recalled version of the DRC, 12 months/12k miles = what a crock of crap... I swear mine lasted 15 months...

    Are you saying replace just the spring but keep the OEM strut? WHY? If the Strut is toast, you have to replace that strut, the central valve, and the cross connected rear strut also... oh and pressurize it to 16-20 bar using a dealership only "special" tool...

    There was a recent thread about the diameter differences - 5% difference between front/rear... Not sure if codes are tossed or what...

    I say get the KWv3 or PSS9 or Stasis and be done with it...
    SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
    Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared

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    I have to balance my bike tuning with the car...plus I'm no longer making $200K+ a year, I'm making zero as a student. I also have to budget for bringing my Skyline to North America in January. I bought the H&R springs thinking the DRC would last, so I already have those sitting around. Best financial move right now is to find a good set of struts, Konis or Bilsteins, that will fit. Add the springs I have and all that has to last me is about a year and a half until I'm working again, at which point I'll add proper suspension. I feel fairly certain that those struts and springs will be of some use to an A6/S6 owner.

    Which reminds me, I gotta sell off my stock swaybars....
    Das Silberkugel - Eurocharged Stage 2/MTM/Level 10/Hotchkis/Koni/H&R
    2015 Ducati 1299S Panigale
    2014 Ducati Multistrada Granturismo

  4. #4
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    Audizine for the stock sways, sold mine in a day. I hate to tell you this, u will we bagging the DRC sooner rather then later. Like Ben said coil overs, when the budget allows.
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

  5. #5
    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedtrapped View Post
    Audizine for the stock sways, sold mine in a day. I hate to tell you this, u will we bagging the DRC sooner rather then later. Like Ben said coil overs, when the budget allows.
    I can't seem to get any bites, maybe I am priced too high @ $225?
    SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
    Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared

  6. #6
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    sways?....I sold mine for $170.00
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

  7. #7
    Registered User Brav's Avatar
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    Be very careful with your skyline importation.. I know a guy who had imported and sold 35-40, and they were all rounded up and crushed. Owners lost everything, seller is hiding.
    03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
    "Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want."

  8. #8
    Registered User skribe's Avatar
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    If you're on a budget, there's no reason I can imagine why you shouldn't get a nice set of struts spec'd for a C5 A6 4.2 for your RS 6. You already have the springs. The 4.2 weighs nearly the same.

    I would do that before putting chinese coilovers on or driving around with failed DRC... very dangerous and inconsiderate to other drivers on the road if you eat shit because of bad struts and involve somebody else in your accident!

  9. #9
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    Bilstein makes struts for the C5 A6 4.2. But I'm beginning to suspect that maybe my steering tie rod ends need replacing....? I'm determined to get to the bottom of this vibration issue.
    Das Silberkugel - Eurocharged Stage 2/MTM/Level 10/Hotchkis/Koni/H&R
    2015 Ducati 1299S Panigale
    2014 Ducati Multistrada Granturismo

  10. #10
    Registered User 1 bad 03 rs6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skribe View Post
    If you're on a budget, there's no reason I can imagine why you shouldn't get a nice set of struts spec'd for a C5 A6 4.2 for your RS 6. You already have the springs. The 4.2 weighs nearly the same.!
    X2 - That's what I'll be doing when I start getting the "warning signs" of the DRC failure. I priced it out a while back. $1200 for struts and springs is what I remember. Praying it will hold out for a while.

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