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Thread: DIY: valve cover gasket replacement, cam tensioner gasket

  1. #55
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    As an update, I was able to finally get the bolt out after getting and angled drill attachment, drill a hole into the screw and then using an extractor bolt. One I did that and got the screw out, it was smooth sailing get the valve cover off and back on with flexing the coolant pipe. Now I am not sure if I have the fuel injectors seated all the way back in. Is there a way to tell. I did not put new Orings on as I would have needed a lot more work to get the whole rail out to do that.

  2. #56
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    Glad to hear that you got it done...For the injectors, no way to tell really until you get some pressure on them. I did new o-rings on mine when I pulled the rail for the intake removal to do the suction jet pump and didn't have any issues seating them.

    I did do a set on my son's Toyota PU and had some issues with them leaking the first time around due to some of the o-rings getting cut just a little bit when seating, but that seems to be a common issue on those as they were leaking already when he got the truck. Just use your common sense and nose...you'll smell the fuel vapors if they are leaking once under pressure, but probably won't see any fuel leakage unless it's major.

  3. #57
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    This guy is in Idaho and has all of the seals you need for a great price.
    https://www.mrinjectorparts.com/stor..._Products.html
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  4. #58
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    I noticed that he also does cleaning and rebuilds of injectors. Given how old our cars are, is it ever recommend after a certain timeframe to get injectors cleaned.

  5. #59
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    I would guess with the crappy Ethanol mixture gas we have it would cause our injectors to wear out early. A check of the spray pattern would be good but if there is pitting from the Ethanol I'm not sure they can repair that, probably a replacement is in order. I'm lucky that I have an Ethanol free 92 Octane (R+M/2 for our Euro guys, not just MON so it's around 98MON) about 8mi away. And now with the higher prices it is not as wide of a margin above Ethanol premium anymore. I can say the car overall runs better and after swapping I get a whole 1/2mpg better.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  6. #60
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    I noticed that the valve cover set comes with a half blue moon gasket but it does not look like it is used anywhere unless I am wrong. I know there is one placed under the cam tensioner bracket but it also comes with it's own half moon gasket.

  7. #61
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    Yeah, you'll probably get some duplicates of stuff like this with gasket kits. Each manufacturer decides what they want to put in there...some aftermarket metal gaskets for under the tensioner assembly may not include the half moon, but the OEM does for sure.

  8. #62
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  9. #63
    Registered User cmore's Avatar
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    I am having a hell of a time getting the rear 5mm allen head bolt out from the back side of the passenger coolant pipe. I can't get anything to fit down there. I wish they made allen keys that were longer on the shorter side.

    Any pro tips on what you used to get that rear bolt loose?
    '03 Audi RS6 | 034 Motorsports Stage 2 ECU + TCU | PSS9 Coil over shocks/springs | Hotchkis sway bars | Milltek exhaust systems/downpipes/cats | Hyperboost DV | Venair hoses | 034 Snub mount | 034 Density control arms

  10. #64
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Maybe a ball socket Allen so you can still get in there at a slight angle, I'm assuming the one you are having a problem with is the inner bolt.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  11. #65
    Registered User cmore's Avatar
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    Yeah, the bolt closer to the firewall. I have a solution and I should have it out tomorrow. Also, I put a camera down there and it's a T-40 torx bolt. The front one was a Allen bolt and rear torx. I'm glad I got a photo before I stripped it out.

    Here's my solution:

    EZRED 4S04 Micro Combo Dual Ratchet Socket with 1/4" Square Drive & Magnetic Bit Drive https://a.co/d/1mHEsEc

    Metric Allen Wrench Drill Bit Set (Premium 12pc Complete SAE Set) /w Storage Case and Bit Holder - 1.5mm - 10mm 1/4in Hex Shank Magnetic Bit Set - The GIFD Collection-S2 Steel Long 2in Drive Heads https://a.co/d/6C7ECMQ

    Or

    Torx Head Drill Bit Set (Premium 12pc Set w/Storage Case) T6 - T55 1/4in Hex Shank Magnetic Star Security Kit - The GIFD Collection Long 2inch Torx Key Bits S2 Steel for Drills and Impact Drivers https://a.co/d/5OiYLwP

    I'll update after I get the bolt out.
    '03 Audi RS6 | 034 Motorsports Stage 2 ECU + TCU | PSS9 Coil over shocks/springs | Hotchkis sway bars | Milltek exhaust systems/downpipes/cats | Hyperboost DV | Venair hoses | 034 Snub mount | 034 Density control arms

  12. #66
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    No that I think about it all 4 of mine were Allen bolts.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

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