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Thread: DIY: valve cover gasket replacement, cam tensioner gasket

  1. #37
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    I'm replacing the VC gasket and cam tensioner gasket on both sides as both are leaking bad. Had drivers side done without problems but now wondering how to do the passenger side cam tensioner gasket. There's combination valve (see pic) that's on the way to remove the tensioner. There's not much room to take it off so my question is do you need to take it off or can it be somehow done without removing? VC is already off.
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  2. #38
    Registered User mdegracia's Avatar
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    Yup, just loosen the tensioner housing just enough to slide out the old one and the new goes in the same...just takes some finessing!
    03 RS6 Daytona Grey - EFI Express - 01e - SRM K24 - Aquamist - 495whp/580ft-lbs

  3. #39
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    Thanks but problem is that the combination valve is right on top of one tensioner bolt. I don't think I can fit any tool to unscrew the bolt.

  4. #40
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    Did you ever finished ok the project of changing the gaskets? I am trying to do the same and I'm looking for any heads up advise. Thanks.

  5. #41
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    I did get it done, but it was already few years ago so can't remember exactly how. I don't think there was anything special, just trying with different tools.

  6. #42
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    It seemed simple for the most part besides the drivers side due to the placement of coolant pipe of vc. however anything about this engine at first glance is everything but simple until you start taking it apart. Do you still own the car ?

  7. #43
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    Yes I still have the car

  8. #44
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    Great. Do you have any experiences with the infamous transmition? My torque converter code has come up and the engine light stays on for a while and turns off by itself and stay off for a while just to come back on again and repeat cycle. There is no slippage or signs of malfunctions by the transmition. I continue to drive but not sure if it hurts or not.

  9. #45
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    Actually I bought my car with malfunctioning transmission and I had it rebuild right away. There was problem with shifting but I didn't inspect it any further, just had it rebuild.

  10. #46
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS6Finn View Post
    Actually I bought my car with malfunctioning transmission and I had it rebuild right away. There was problem with shifting but I didn't inspect it any further, just had it rebuild.
    What did that run you? If you don't mind telling....
    thank you,

    Mike
    '18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
    (prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,

  11. #47
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    I have been in the process of trying to replace the passenger side valve cover gasket and trying to figure out how to loosen the front bolt that holds the coolant pipe above the exhaust manifold so that I can squeeze the valve cover out. Does anyone know what the bolt size is holding the coolant pipe in and what socket size I need as I cannot see the face of the bolt and it is really hard to get to. Is it possible to loosen the fuel rail and then pull the valve cover up and out instead.

  12. #48
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    I remember exactly which bolt you are talking about...forgot to put that pipe in when I did my refresh and had to fight with that one to get it in once the motor was in the car. If I remember correctly, it's a 5mm hex socket head bolt. I used a 1/4 drive mini socket with an open head that I could insert the 5mm hex bit into as it's very close down there. Should basically be the same bolt that holds your PVC hard pipes to the VC on that side (or at least mine was).

    Something like this....

    https://www.griotsgarage.com/usag-mi...set-1-4-drive/

    I can't comment on getting the VC out without the fuel rail as I did mine when the motor was out of the car...

    Actually, brain cramp...the pipe that you need to move is the one that wraps around from the back of the heads...but still the same bolt that I checked on size...
    Last edited by Muggy; May 9th, 2022 at 11:47.

  13. #49
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    I looked up the bolt in etka and it listed it as an M8 socket bolt which I believe equals an 6mm Allen if I am not mistaken. I was going to get a long stubby Allen wrench and see if I can get to it. Also when I did my driver's side gasket, the cam chain tensioner tool broke off where the screw goes into the hole and I had to drill it out which now made a bigger hole in the cam tensioner. I am assuming that because of this, I need to replace the entire tensioner to do the gaskets under the tensioner.

  14. #50
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    I actually looked up some pictures online of the bolt which looks like it might be a star torx size but not sure if it is T40 or T45. Anyone by chance have their engine out for work and could verify that for me. Would be much appreciated

  15. #51
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    Just did a double check on mine...you are correct, it is a 6mm hex socket bolt. Mine is easier to get to as I've removed all of the secondary radiator system, getting rid of some of the piping that is in the way there.

    For your tensioner, I can't answer that right off 100%....but the answer is most likely yes.

  16. #52
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    I have been working for hours to try and loosen the coolant pipe bolt with no luck and think it might be stripped. I am going to get some sockets for strip bolts to see if I can get it out. My last thought is to see if I can get a small Dremel and cut the bracket off the screw to loosen it. Other than that, I am not sure if I have any other options as I won't be able to line up the old gasket back on the valve cover since I have already lifted it off. From what I read, if nothing else works, I might be stuck with an engine pull.

  17. #53
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    Since it connects to the back of the heads, you may be "ok" to cut the bracket as it is just a support for the long pipe around the front...you will need to bend it a bit to get the VC out if/when you do get the bolt out or bracket cut.

    Possibly get a pair of locking needle nose pliers on the head of the socket bolt? Torque is minimal on it (or at least should be)...

  18. #54
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    I don't know why my bolt is so seized up. I have been hitting it with penetrating sprays. I am hoping that the extractor sockets will get a grip to loosen it. I have thought about using a vise grip but just trying to figure the right angle to place it.

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