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Thread: Wobble on accel

  1. #1
    Registered User SzymekCRX's Avatar
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    Wobble on accel

    Hi

    Is it possible that due to my recent alignment they f*d up something in now when I'm currently ander heavy accel conditions I fell my car wobble ?

    It occurs at around 130kph and goes instantly off when I release the gas pedal. During WOT at 130 I can feel the engine rumming, earthquake under my feet and hear crazy air circulation outside driver's window because of this vibration !

    When I do light throttle accel I don't feel any major wobble passing above mentioned speed.

    Engine mounts ? I can't remember it wobbling before my visit @dealership !

    EDIT: it doesn't come from the steering wheel so I'm sure it's not my fresh installed arms and rods (rims as well)

  2. #2
    Registered User PixieVC's Avatar
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    Interesting - this sounds similar to the vibration I get under heavy acceleration at high speeds (140+ KPH, usually 3rd gear) - it's a wobble or shudder from the car only under hard acceleration. I am at a loss as to how else to characterize it. There's no wobble from my steering wheel, and I had checked the balance and alignment. The leading suspect of the issue in my case is a worn/old CV joint and axle. The boot is torn, and much of the lubricant has leaked out... as there are no other symptoms of failure (noise, etc) I am deferring this repair - at least until I receive all my paperwork relating to the car from the government and so on and so forth.

    I am very curious to follow the outcome of this!
    Daily Drivers: 2002 Mercedes E55 AMG, Brilliant Silver, Autoadapt Menox control, hard-wired Valentine 1 | Ki Tsunami Titanium w/ Spinergy SPOX, Jay J2 Seatback, Jay J3 cushion, 2.5 degree camber

  3. #3
    Registered User SzymekCRX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PixieVC View Post
    Interesting - this sounds similar to the vibration I get under heavy acceleration at high speeds (140+ KPH, usually 3rd gear) - it's a wobble or shudder from the car only under hard acceleration. I am at a loss as to how else to characterize it. There's no wobble from my steering wheel, and I had checked the balance and alignment. The leading suspect of the issue in my case is a worn/old CV joint and axle. The boot is torn, and much of the lubricant has leaked out... as there are no other symptoms of failure (noise, etc) I am deferring this repair - at least until I receive all my paperwork relating to the car from the government and so on and so forth.

    I am very curious to follow the outcome of this!
    In Your case I am pretty sure that it will be fixed when You replace that faulty joint

    My case is weird though, because it happened overnight at the dealer ;/ I'm going to visit them on monday cause I phoned them and complained that someone had to mess with my engine mounts... They claimed that my symptoms (vibrations) lead to a faulty joint but I really con't remember having those issues before !

    We'll see about that on monday

  4. #4
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    if your engine mounts are stock, and they are shot, I think they would throw a code...they are connected to harness due to safety of overloading engine, the mounts can throw codes and I believe if the mounts are really shot, they would throw your car into limp mode
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

  5. #5
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    you can always get rid of them, I did i bought Stern racing mounts, and they come with harness deletes..
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

  6. #6
    Registered User SzymekCRX's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info !

    I wonder though is it possible that messing with the subframe could have caused something like this...

    Maybe I did something bad to one of the joints during contrrol arms replacement ? I was really gentle with the CVs :/

  7. #7
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    I get shudder under heavy accel, more so when in tip mode and the TC is locked up more. My mech says I have a broken engine mount, the sensor is zip tied and it doesn't throw a code. Already have the mount, just need to take the car in one of these days. Like I said, only under heavy throttle, does seem more prominent from 40-80 as opposed to 0-30, probably just me.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  8. #8
    Registered User SzymekCRX's Avatar
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    OK, I think that I found what's the problem !!

    The driver side inner CV joint !

    How to check it:

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    Lift up one wheel.


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    Move the wheel back and forth - there should be a small play.

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    Doing the same play inspect the outer joint. Does it move exatly as the wheel is ? You can try to hold the axle itself and check if it stops the wheel's play. There should be no wheel movement when You hold the axle. (PS. I think that these brake pads were not made for the RS6 and are hacked...)

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    Try to move the axle in every possible direction looking for a play and unnecessary movement.

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    It should not move in any of these marked directions !

    Generally speaking it is easy to spot where the problem is because hopefully only one (either left or right) side is going to be faulty and we can spot the differences between the axles.

    I'm going to regenerate it (need to find about the cost) next week and try if it was the case

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  10. #10
    Registered User SzymekCRX's Avatar
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    OK, after 12 hours of reading manuals, forums, articles, watching youtube I came up to two thigs:

    1. I don't need the above part (it was not made for RS6 despite P/N 4B0 498 103 stated in ETKA !)
    2. I'm the one who f*d up because I remember playing with my new hammer and crowbar on the axle while replacing the lower rod

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    That's how it looks inside the inner CV joint. If You apply too much force to the axle it will damage this triangle-shape bearings, so be gentle !

  11. #11
    Registered User SzymekCRX's Avatar
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    I tried to remove the axle and of course had to get some kind of epic fail ! - one spline bolt i totally destroyed in terms of the thread inside it is a total no-go. I've been wondering how to remove it but there is not enough space for play...

  12. #12
    Registered User mmaturo's Avatar
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    Damn i need to check the forum more for ancient history recall as indeed this happened to me and it was the inner CV joint.
    Knew it the second i started reading. Careful in there as anything out of whack in the front suspension will lead to pops and clunks over uneven surfaces.

    Edit to add that prior to getting the joint fixed dealer thought it was a slightly bent axle (bigger $$) which i knew was not possible. They missed the joint till I had a 'better' tech check it out.
    2012 R8 GT #275 Suzuka, 2014 RS7 Suzuka/Lunar Silver, 2013 RS5 Suzuka/Lunar Silver
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  13. #13
    Registered User SzymekCRX's Avatar
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    Success ! Two days of fighting and laying under the car. I was thinking about many ways of dealing with this bolt and even built one special tool to help me extract it but it was no go.

    My recent nightmare :

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    Today I decided to buy a dremel tool and just cut the bolt's head. It was hard to achieve (no space around it) ! Luckily it came out easy decapitated.

  14. #14
    Registered User MaxRS6's Avatar
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    ^Congrats on working yourself out of the nightmare...
    210K miles rolled

  15. #15
    Registered User SzymekCRX's Avatar
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    New inner CV joint 150$ (substitute).

    It's operational again

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