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Thread: 2Qs: RPMs and Wheel Hop

  1. #1
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    2Qs: RPMs and Wheel Hop

    All,

    Since I had my TC rebuilt, I've felt the tranny was somewhat off. It constantly has problems "searching" for the correct gear at constant speed around the shift points. Not under hard acceleration, though. So, my techs all say it's fine. But, I've also noticed about 10%+ lower fuel efficiency, even though my driving and the routes I drive are all the same. My question is, at 60mph in top gear, what rpms are you seeing? I'm seeing ~2K, and I'm wondering if there's something going on that's escaping me. Just thought I'd ask.

    Secondly, I've had the DRC-upgrade/replacement, but I feel the suspension still "hops" on even surfaces. Given the nature of the DC-metro area's roads, this is a common occurrence for me. It doesn't breed much confidence if I want to get on it, even though I know the car can brake and get around the corners alright. I'm certainly nowhere near the limit, but I often am giving the suspension a work out. I am riding on 20" Sportec's with low-profile tires, and I'm certain this has exacerbated the problem, but I'm also curious if anyone else is having any wheel hop issues post-DRC-upgrade.

    Thanks,

    CW

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    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    I have a rebuilt TC (ace) and revamped DRC. I don't have these issues. As far as the TC is concerned, I would have the fluid level checked. Although, if the fluid is low, you will know it during heavy acceleration. I'll check the RPM's, but 2k @ 60 sounds right to me.

    As far as the wheel hop. I would bring it in and look at your balance and make sure your wheels are straight. While there, check out the control arm bushings. Worn bushings could cause vibrations.
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

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    CW

    Very subjective on the issues. It may help to buy a Vagcom and verify the TC is operating as designed. As for suspension, you may try 19s or even throwing on the stock wheels to see if there is a difference. I did notice a stiffer ride when switching to the RS4 19in wheels and 255/35s. I can imagine what 20s would feel like on shitty roads.

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    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DHall1 View Post
    CW

    Very subjective on the issues. It may help to buy a Vagcom and verify the TC is operating as designed. As for suspension, you may try 19s or even throwing on the stock wheels to see if there is a difference. I did notice a stiffer ride when switching to the RS4 19in wheels and 255/35s. I can imagine what 20s would feel like on shitty roads.
    Speedtrapped would know EXACTLY this feeling as when I drove his car before he owned it (Duckwingduck's), I felt the same feeling with the 20" rims and the KWv3's = felt like it was skipping over the tops of the any ripples or bumps...
    SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
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    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Dave, what block is the TC and what do you look for. I really have no reason to do it, but I am loving playing with my cable. Uhh,..... wait, that came out wrong.
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

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    The control arms were replaced about two years ago, and the car has probably done less than 10K since then. But, I will have them checked when it goes in for the 65K service. I will also have it VAG'd at that time.

    To further analyze the wheel hop, I've noticed it's worse on concrete v. asphalt. But, of course, any pothole, crack or imperfection on either surface causes that momentary sensation of not being connected to the ground.

    CW

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    Registered User skribe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CornersWell View Post
    The control arms were replaced about two years ago, and the car has probably done less than 10K since then. But, I will have them checked when it goes in for the 65K service. I will also have it VAG'd at that time.

    To further analyze the wheel hop, I've noticed it's worse on concrete v. asphalt. But, of course, any pothole, crack or imperfection on either surface causes that momentary sensation of not being connected to the ground.

    CW
    I would definitely have the dealership check pressure in your DRC systems... my car had recalled DRC and after a rear control arm replacement the ass end was up 3/4 of an inch and it developed a nasty habit of sidestepping when rolling over bumps and undulations in the pavement... particularly in long sweepers at speed. Dealership "took a look" insisted it was fine, all to spec, no visible hydraulic fluid leaks, etc.

    Of course, it wasn't fine... I demanded that they actually check the DRC system and repressurize if needed, and also retorque the control arms with the car weighting the suspension. They checked pressure, and one of the circuits was low on fluid, so they repressurized with their proprietary tools. Car now sits like it's supposed to and the DRC has been functioning beautifully for over a year now.

    When it works, it's very good... When it works.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skribe View Post
    ...the ass end was up 3/4 of an inch ...Dealership "took a look" insisted it was fine, all to spec, no visible hydraulic fluid leaks, etc.
    Same for me. My Indy can't do the DRC work, though. Will have to take that portion, at least, to the dealer.

    CW

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    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skribe View Post
    I would definitely have the dealership check pressure in your DRC systems... my car had recalled DRC and after a rear control arm replacement the ass end was up 3/4 of an inch and it developed a nasty habit of sidestepping when rolling over bumps and undulations in the pavement... particularly in long sweepers at speed. Dealership "took a look" insisted it was fine, all to spec, no visible hydraulic fluid leaks, etc.

    Of course, it wasn't fine... I demanded that they actually check the DRC system and repressurize if needed, and also retorque the control arms with the car weighting the suspension. They checked pressure, and one of the circuits was low on fluid, so they repressurized with their proprietary tools. Car now sits like it's supposed to and the DRC has been functioning beautifully for over a year now.

    When it works, it's very good... When it works.
    not if you have this:

    SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
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    Sorry, Ben, what am I looking at that obviates the need for re-pressurizing?

    Thanks,

    CW

  11. #11
    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CornersWell View Post
    Sorry, Ben, what am I looking at that obviates the need for re-pressurizing?

    Thanks,

    CW
    That would the the recalled DRC, Front Right, weeping out whatever hydraulic fluid is used - pressurizing would make it worse, in my case...
    SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
    Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared

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    After I thought about it, I figured that's what you were referring to. Sorry to be daft!

    CW

  13. #13
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    I would follow skribe's advice and get it to a dealer. Insist on having it repressurized. Also insist that they tighten rear arms with full load on the car. Any mechanic can do that. In my case, I jacked up the back and put car ramps under the back wheels, then lowered the car onto the ramps. I then had my mechanic go under the car (i was paying him after all) while I jumped in the deck of the truck and stayed on it while he tightened the bolts.

    Car rides great with 1/8" difference between front and rear. As skribe said, When the DRC works, it works good.
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

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