Would have totally met up at Raven/OC if I wasnt out of town. Next time.
Would have totally met up at Raven/OC if I wasnt out of town. Next time.
03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
"Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want."
You would have enjoyed the Drive, it's much nicer with the new Steel Flywheel. Maybe we could have another meet here later this month. Possible get all Socal RS6's together to Visit the Shop.Originally Posted by Brav
Hey Ben, you should check with Dennis, he got to drive the 6 Speed Beast. Lucky him
We talk about the Rear diff being a problem when you were here, I did some more research. I think I made a mistake, the Rear RS6 diff can be used, Switching it out as I type this
Tmw, We will be installing the ER's into the car, and Getting a New Revision to our EPL tune. Hopefully to make alot more power.
Also, the brakes are working great now, we swapped out a my extra set of RS6 brakes to try out. Hopefully you can drive her around and plan that 6 Speed swap.
at the So Cal Euro Meet!
Off Topic kinda - is Matt/Ricardo coming down this week/next week? If so, I need to let some of the other So Cal RS6 guys know about this - perhaps a C5 meet/greet? I know some of the C5 A6 2.7t guys would like to see the 6speed...
SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared
Just to confirm what Matt has said, the existing rear diff (4.11 ratio) can be used in the conversion - in fact it should be used as it has additional cooling installed on the unit unlike a standard A6 diff.
Here's an update of the RS6. It's officially a 6-speed car. Drove it most of the day today as part of the clutch - flywheel break in so nothing crazy. Here are my impressions so far:
1.) Clutch - flywheel combo is nice. The clutch is definitely beefy and takes some getting use to. Not too bad though. First and reverse are the touchiest. A little chatter occasionally, but that's a driver issue, not necessarily a hardware problem.
2.) Car is in reduced power. I did some logging and it's never asking more more than about 4-5 psi of boost.
3.) I have a strange speedometer / odometer problem - they don't work! I can monitor speed using the Vagcom so I know the speed sensor and wiring are fine. I'm wondering if there's some strange adaptation issue or if TCU is doing something wonky. Anyone have any ideas on this?
4.) Still reverse and neutral safety switch wiring to complete. Might get a jump on that tonight. Have to see how bad to bugs are in the garage.
5.) Even with essentially no boost, the car feels quick. I can't wait to get the clutch broken in properly and feel what it's really like.
6.) Software - still trying to figure this out. There's a lot of sketchy information floating around and I want to make the correct decision. EPL has / will have a tune but it won't address SAI or the secondary O2 sensors. That's a bummer with gutted cats and a SAI pump and hardware sitting on the ground. Greg at DMTechnik also has a solution, but I don't think his car is running yet and I'd like to hear how that is performing.
7.) The car likes to hold onto engine speed for a couple seconds with the clutch or in neutral. Sometimes it will hunt between 1K-3K as if it's looking for something to match (tranny speed)? Software should address this issue.
That's where things are. If anybody has ideas on the speedometer shoot me a reply, I'm scratching my head.
I assume you have pulled the TCU out of the car at this point? I think I read somewhere that you must actually pull the TCU. Not an expert on the subject....just asking.
Stephen
Not yet. That's actually one of the things I'll try tomorrow.
I just ran a test on the instrument cluster and it works fine so it's a software gremlin roaming somewhere.
The other thing I'll likely have to do is a recode of the ABS controller for a manual tranny and then a steering angle calibration. More fun for another day.
Just as an experiment, I attempted to code the engine module from 006752 (5 is for the 01L tranny) to 006712 (1 is for 6 speed) and it rejected the code as out of range. I know it's been tried before but sometimes you have to try it yourself.
[QUOTE=Carbonman;216147Just as an experiment, I attempted to code the engine module from 006752 (5 is for the 01L tranny) to 006712 (1 is for 6 speed) and it rejected the code as out of range. I know it's been tried before but sometimes you have to try it yourself.[/QUOTE]
Maybe because it is trying to match a TCU with a trans that doesn't exist?
2013 Audi S8
If you unplugged the TCU, you need to recode the ECU and the cluster. You will need a shop login code to do it. Is the engine speed sensor on the right spot? If the crank signal is not clocked right it will bounce the rpm like that. I had that problem on my old A8 with the 10 bolt crank.
05 Cayenne turbo
you want to use the mounting hole that is closer to the axle and not the one that's closer to 11 o'clock or so.
2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
2001 Honda S2000 - 1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 - 1965 GMC 1500 WideSide
That's the sensor hole we used.
I unplugged the TCU and it's not as nice as the S6 - I don't get the "Press Clutch to start engine" message, but the PRNDS have disappeared and the car is no longer in a reduced power mode. The hanging idle problem has also gone away. I do get a situation where the car will idle at 1080 RPM occasionally - and it drops back down when I clear the engine codes. I'll work on getting rid of those first.
I now also have ABS and ESP warning lights on. I'm sure that's a coding deal. Anyone with instructions on coding clusters and ABS - feel free to chime in!
I do have to say, this car is really fast with the full on boost. Not getting into it much because of clutch break in, but I did a couple third gear pulls for logging and it screams.
No speedo yet....
wow that's cool that pulling the TCU fixed that list of issues, including the boost!
I have the EXACT same issue with my 2000 A6 4.2 that I swapped a six speed into. Apparently, the Euro S6 manual code will sort this issue out, but I have yet to update the ECU.
Let me know if you get this issue resolved.
Nice Work!
Cheers!
Here's the status of the car right now:
1.) Last night I decided to pop the rear O2 sensors back into the car to get rid of those related faults. It took about 20 minutes and cleaned a bunch of codes up. Note to people doing the conversion - the driver's side rear O2 hits the side of the transmission on one of the little "fins" or ridges. If I had the exhaust out, the smart play would be to move the O2 location, but I was able loosen the exhaust and get the sensor threaded then move it back into place - not ideal but I don't think it will be a problem.
2.) I tried to get the ABS module recoded but I'm just banging my head on the wall - very frustrating. Here's what I'm trying to do:
1.) Login using 07197 (07 = A6, 1 = PR-1LP brake option, 9 = 6/8 cyl, 7 = Auto tranny
2.) Recode using 06695 (06 = A6, 6 = PR-1LP brake option, 9 = 6/8 cyl, 5 = manual tranny
3.) Steering angle sensor adjustment
The problem is I enter the login code, recode as per above and it returns to the controller screen showing the original code of 06697.
I've also tried the procedure using a login code of 07195, which would be a manual, then recode, but I get the same results. I'm obviously doing something wrong and any guidance from Vag experts would be highly appreciated.
I also have a couple other faults - an idle control system RPM too high (the car likes to idle at 1100 or so) and a fuel trim too lean issue (I'm assuming this is a Revo tuning issue).
I've included the scan log below (I omitted all the other controllers as they're fine).
I'm looking for ideas on what to chase next.
Thursday,23,June,2011,08:50:40:54868
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.4 (x64)
Data version: 20110418
Chassis Type: 4B - Audi A6 C5
Scan: 01 02 03 06 08 15 16 17 18 22 34 35 36 37 45 55 56 57 65 67
75 76 77
VIN: WUAPV64B93N905264
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 077-907-558-BCY.lbl
Part No: 4D1 907 558 D
Component: 4.2l V8/5VT G 0003
Coding: 0006752
Shop #: WSC 14385 921 468550
VCID: 2F670327C78D
4 Faults Found:
18034 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from TCU
P1626 - 004 - No Signal/Communication - MIL ON
16891 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.
P0507 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
17536 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean
P1128 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
17538 - Fuel Trim; Bank 2 (Mult): System too Lean
P1130 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
Readiness: 0010 0101
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 4B0-614-517.lbl
Part No: 4B0 614 517 AD
Component: ESP 5.7 RS 6 2310
Coding: 06697
Shop #: WSC 02195
VCID: 63CFBF17DBC5
1 Fault Found:
18034 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from TCU
P1626 - 35-00 - -
Spent a couple hours today troubleshooting a couple issue. First was a niggling oil leak which was just a loose fitting on the cooler line.
Second issue is the Speedo - I've been able to read speed from the ECU, but not the cluster. It seems that the ECU gets vehicle speed from the ABS module, not the VSS. Figured this when I disconnected the VSS sensor and I could still measure speed from the ECU. Based on that I wrung out the harness, which was fine. Tried to meter the VSS output while the wheel was turned and didn't get anything. I used an inspection mirror to peek down the VSS hole to see if I could spot the tone ring and couldn't see anything while the wheel was moved (although I'm not sure what if should look like or even if you can see it). That means it's one of two things:
1.) Bad VSS
2.) Tone ring was left off the drivers output shaft during the tranny rebuild.
I'm really hoping it's the first. Does anyone know if a VSS reads a resistance when you meter across the connectors? Mine reads open, but I don't know if that's good bad or indifferent.
I'm hoping a new VSS fixes this otherwise we're tearing apart the driver's side - yuck.
I can't get the part until Monday so that's it until then.
Meter resistance on the VSS while waving a screwdriver across the magnet, this will simulate a square wave. This is a good way to test crank and cam sensors as well, you can actually run a car while waving a pocket screwdriver over a crank sensor...
Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's
Sounds like a bad VSS. Mine was a plug and play on both of my 6 speed conversions. Many people did this with no problem. You can pull the sensor out easily.
05 Cayenne turbo
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